If you want a really good example of where a box like this would be needed, look no further than your local church. Traditional churches by nature are all non-profit organizations that operate on a very tight shoestring budget. Whatever technology is brought into the church must have good longevity to it because there’s simply no other purchase options. They can’t lease computer boxes. Whatever they get, they own, and it has to last a long time.

You could, if so desired, opt not to build but rather go with a brand name like Dell as they have new desktop PCs starting at $269. But maybe you’re in the situation where you have to deal with existing PCs because the budget simply won’t allow for the purchase of new computers. In this instance you have to refit them with new parts that will stand the test of time. That’s what this how-to covers.

The icons seen below are from Icon Archive. Be sure to check that place out for some truly good looking icons for Windows, Mac or Linux.

  Motherboard and CPU

It used to be that AMD was cheaper than Intel, but this is no longer the case. Were you to compare AMD vs. Intel in both motherboard and CPU prices, you’ll find they’re almost identical on the lower end of the cost spectrum.

When it comes to long-haul computing, the prevention of heat is a major consideration. Fortunately this is easy to take care of, because all you have to do is employ the use of a low-watt CPU. AMD has 45-watt offerings and Intel has 35-watt. Either is a good choice.

  RAM

With desktop memory the goal is to use the "slowest" possible sticks you can buy. Once again this is done to avoid heat. Use the bare minimum clock speed that the RAM banks will support, and put the maximum amount of RAM in the box it can support.

Also try, if possible, to use same-brand RAM. This will avoid any unforeseen issues with old RAM, as in some instances old sticks do not "play nice" with new ones. It is rare when this happens, but not out of the realm of possibility and you probably don’t have a RAM tester. (If you do have one however, use it.)

  Hard Drive

This step is simple, stick with 7200rpm hard disk drives. Were it a few years ago I would have recommended to use a 5400rpm (again, for less heat), but those offerings are now all but gone for standard 3.5-inch drives, and you’ll spend too much on a 5400rpm due to its rarity. The tried-and-true 7200rpm SATA of any media storage size works fine.

  Sound Card

Any. Doesn’t matter what you use as long as it works. You’ll most likely use the on-board sound from the motherboard anyway.

  Video Card

If the motherboard has a built-in video port, use it. Heat is avoided by doing this. If there isn’t any on-board video, what to use for a video card depends on the operating system. I’ll cover that in a moment.

  Optical drive

As long as the customer reviews for the optical drive you’re shopping for are favorable and it can play, read and burn CDs and DVDs, that’s all that matters.

  Case fans

This is the only part of the build where you absolutely cannot go low-cost. The case fans you use must be of premium grade, have good bearings and be as quiet as possible. Their only job in life is to cool, so don’t go cheap with these.

Here’s an example of a premium case fan. Yes, it’s almost $25 per fan. But it’s one of the best you can buy and totally worth the money.

I’m not saying you have to buy $25 case fans, but don’t go with the two-dollar cheap stuff. Do so and the PC’s life will end earlier.

  Operating System

If the box has a legal licensed copy of Windows XP or Vista, you’re all set. Continue to use it, continue to automatically download auto-updates as they are provided.

XP runs happily with 1GB of RAM and a 64MB video card. You can’t game on it, but you can do just about everything else.

The system requirements for Vista state it can get by on 1GB RAM, but as everybody knows it needs at least 2GB. The minimums also state that 128MB video is needed, but in reality 512MB suits it much better.

If the box has an illegal copy of XP or Vista, you need to either purchase a license of Windows 7 or switch to Linux – especially if the box you’re building is going to be used by somebody else. Why? Because somewhere along the line Windows will break without its needed updates eventually. And if you’re the one building a box for someone else, guess who gets the first phone call when somehow the end user magically turns on auto-updates and WGA disables Windows? That’s right, you do. Do you honestly want to deal with that?

The purchase of 7 is out of the question for most people because it blows the budget. You’d have to buy a full license of Windows 7 Home Premium, which costs just under $110. The "Starter" Edition of Windows 7 is only available to OEMs and not the general public unfortunately.

Linux’s strongest point is that it’s free. The flavor that’s the most suitable choice is the very recently released Ubuntu 9.10.

If you happen to be building/refitting a box for someone else, and that person only requires the basics of computing, you may want to consider Ubuntu Netbook Remix instead. It’s designed for netbooks, but has superior performance on low-end computer boxes. It also helps that the 9.10 UNR interface is super-friendly to use.

One of the few things that may prove to be a roadblock with UNR is printing. This is not Ubuntu’s fault, but rather the fact that most printers only come provided with proprietary Windows and Mac control software.

Check printer compatibility here for Ubuntu. It’s well worth the time to take a few minutes to read that over for your specific printer. Yours should be there as the lists are extensive. You know you’re in good shape if your printer is listed as both supported and working.

  Mouse

At least mid-grade quality, not wireless and manufactured by Microsoft or Logitech.

  Keyboard

Same requirements as the mouse.

  Monitor

You’ll most likely be using the existing monitor. If buying another, don’t buy used. Buy new.

The price for a new low-cost LCD monitor off the shelf will be between $125 and $175.

If you opt to buy online, specifically seek out the ones with free shipping, else you’ll pay the same price as you would off the shelf for the same thing.

As for the size, don’t buy anything under 18 inches. It’s simply not worth it.

  Software

In a basic sense, your computer must be able to:

• Browse the web
• Have the ability to use instant messaging easily
• Compose documents and spreadsheets and be able to share those documents easily
• Be able to import images from a digital camera easily
• Be able to edit images on a basic level easily
• Print
• Be able to burn CDs and DVDs
• Play DVD video
• Have sufficient protection against spyware, malware and viruses

Here’s each point covered one by one. I’m listing very specific choices that don’t require any additional software unless absolutely necessary. The less software installed, the better off the overall installation is.

Browse the web

Windows: Internet Explorer
Ubuntu: Firefox

Instant messaging

Windows: Windows Live Messenger
Ubuntu: Pidgin

Documents and Spreadsheets

Windows: OpenOffice
Ubuntu: OpenOffice

Digital Camera image import / Basic photo editing

Windows: Windows Live Photo Gallery
Ubuntu: F-Spot

Printing

Windows: Use provided printer control software CD or download from printer OEM’s web site
Ubuntu: Depends if the printer is supported or not by the OS (see above)

Burning CDs and DVDs

Windows, Data/Backup: Built-in to the OS natively, drag/drop
Windows, Music: Windows Media Player

Ubuntu, Data/Backup: Built-in to the OS natively, drag/drop
Ubuntu, Music: Brasero (included with OS)

Play DVD Video

Windows XP: Not included with DVD video codecs on fresh XP install. Codec must be provided by purchased player software such as WinDVD or CyberDVD.

Windows Vista/7: Codecs included, uses Windows Media Player to play DVDs.

Ubuntu: Codecs included, uses Totem to play DVDs.

Virus, spyware and malware protection

Windows: Microsoft Security Essentials or any other number of free protection suites.

Ubuntu: Generally speaking, not required because of the way Linux is designed. But if you feel you need it, there’s documentation aplenty on it.

  Placement

If you have the option, place the PC on the desk and not on the floor. As you know, computers are dirt magnets. This not only makes the computer box easier to clean but also keeps it away from dust and dirt that collects on the floor that the case fans would otherwise suck inside the box.

  Performance notes and other tips

The only time you’ll experience true slowdowns is on web pages with heavy Flash use. Then again, Flash will bring any web browser to its knees if you throw enough of that content at it even on the fastest of computers.

It is better if the PC has wired instead of wireless networking as it will speed things up quite a bit concerning internet usage. It’s not that wireless won’t work, but you want to give any speed advantage you can, so if you have the option, use wired internet connectivity.

Automate everything you possibly can. For example, if using a Windows OS you could use Defraggler to schedule drive defragmenting easily.

If you can, clone the drive once everything is installed, so if something busts on a major level, you’ve got a "vanilla" copy ready to be imaged back if the need arises.

Try (or instruct whoever is getting the PC) to get in the habit of "living in the browser." Keep installed apps to a minimum. The less apps there are, the less likely something will break on the software side and in many cases the speedier the OS will run, regardless of what OS it is. The best way to do this is to stay in the browser as much as possible.

For every app you download and install, save that to USB stick or CD/DVD. It’s also smart to perform a software inventory periodically just in case you have to reinstall the OS for whatever reason.

For any hardware you installed that has a warranty, put all the paperwork in an envelope and physically tape it to the side or top of the case. It’s not pretty, but you’ll never lose the info, should you need it.

Final notes

The best way to treat an older computer is to configure it like a kiosk would be. A kiosk by nature is set up to be simple and efficient. If you use Ubuntu Netbook Remix, this is very much how your computer will act, and that’s not a bad thing. You can do the same with Windows by hiding the taskbar, avoiding the Start menu when possible and placing the icons for the apps you regularly use on the desktop.

If you approach computing this way with an older refitted PC box and build it as outlined above, it should easily last 5 or more years.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Long Haul Low-Cost PC "Refit" How-To

For example, I don’t have to buy a new case, nor do I have to buy a new optical drive. I also don’t need new audio speakers, mouse, keyboard or monitor. In my current setup I could also transfer over my video card as well.

When you add these things up it shaves off a lot of cash you would otherwise have to spend.

Many PCMech readers have built PCs before, but if you’re someone who hasn’t yet, I can say without question that your most expensive build will probably be the first one. And this is because you have nothing to transfer from a previous build. Everything must be bought new and yes, it can get costly – but only for the first time around.

What you can do is think of the future when building your first box so it will cost less when you upgrade later. The checklist is short and easy to remember.

Future-use things to consider when PC building

Computer Case

Your case should be a full-sized tower. The reason is so you can use standard ATX or MicroATX motherboards. This gives you more choice of what motherboard you want to use now and in the future.

The case you buy should be above average. You want something built well that will withstand the test of time. Being that your intent is to use the same case over and over, build quality matters.

Motherboard

Use a motherboard that supports several different types of processors. The better ones support at least four. This Intel motherboard for example does just that. For now maybe you want a Core 2 Duo processor but later on want to upgrade to a Quad-core. Using a motherboard that supports multiple CPU types will save you cash because you don’t have to buy another board when ready to upgrade.

Also bear in mind the new board you buy should support (at the time of this writing) a minimum of 8GB of RAM which the one linked above does. If you buy a new board that only supports 4GB, that’s your limit – and that’s not good. 8GB should stay current for at least 5 years, and you can incrementally update as needed.

Optical Drive

This is something you don’t have to put a ton of cash into because more people are moving away from the optical format in favor of flash-based media.

Concerning this particular component, the key is to avoid things you don’t need that add extra cost, such as:

• LightScribe – This is more for "cool factor" than anything else. You’re better off just labeling your discs with a Sharpie marker. It’s cheaper and does the same job. True, it doesn’t look as professional, but nobody cares.
• Super fast DVD burning – Not necessary. Why? Because getting blank media that supports the higher speeds costs more and probably isn’t available on the shelf where you buy discs. Most of the time the blank media you buy will be 12x max write speed for DVD and 30x max for CD, so the fact your drive can burn faster means nothing unless you’re willing to custom order blank discs that support it – which you probably won’t.
• Blu-Ray compatible – Again, not necessary. The only people truly interested in this format are those who have Blu-ray players for their television. And yes, you will get a big-big 25GB of storage on one of these BD-R discs, but, each disc at present costs $5 – and that doesn’t include shipping. You’re better off using flash-based media, if only for the fact that write/rewrite is much easier and faster compared to optical.

Input Devices (Keyboard and Mouse)

Concerning the mouse, make sure it connects via USB. With wireless, go for RF and not Bluetooth. For example, a really kick-ass wireless mouse is the Logitech G7. It’s got a ridiculous price tag (but worth it to some) and is USB/RF-wireless based. And don’t worry, there are plenty of RF-wireless USB mice that are much lower in price, like this one.

Note that there’s nothing bad or wrong about Bluetooth wireless, but you get more choice with RF. A lot more.

Concerning the keyboard, you want something that will stand the test of time like your computer case. There are many keyboard makes to choose from, but typically the best for long-term use are made by Microsoft and Logitech. Sure, other keyboards have lots of whiz-bang features on it, but what matters most is comfort and longevity.

With Microsoft and Logitech it’s the simple things that make them better, such as not having the lettering literally wear off your keys in less than six months.

Of course, neither beat the best computer keyboard of all time, the IBM Model M. But that takes a little bit of doing (i.e. a USB converter) to make the older ones work. And lets not forget they’re frickin’ loud. A resounding CLICK-CLACK happens every time you press a key on one of those. But it’s a good sound. At least I think so.

Audio speakers

The only rule to follow here is to use an audio speaker setup that is not overly dependent on software. And what I mean by that is you should not buy speakers that require software just to hear sound come out of them.

Whatever you buy should work like this: Open the box, take the speakers out, plug the AC adapter into the wall, plug in the audio cable to the sound card, done.

Software that controls the sound card is fine (and necessary). Software that’s required just to make the speakers work is bad.

If you want an example of bad, Creative is notorious for having speaker setups that are too "attached" to software, so to speak. And without their proprietary software installed, the speakers either sound like crap or not work at all. Not good.

Final notes

Many people make the mistake of building a PC that only has "right-now" tech in it, meaning the end build will not stay current for more than 2 years at the most.

For example, let’s say you bought a brand new motherboard today but it can only use a Core 2 Duo processor as the fastest it will support. That’s a mistake. Yes, the Core 2 right now is fast – but it won’t be 2 years from now and you’ll be forced to buy another motherboard later when the time comes. What you should have done is bought a board that can support Core 2 or Quad-core. When the Core 2 becomes too slow, it’s not a problem because you can upgrade to a Quad-core and get another 2 or 3 years out of the same motherboard, thereby saving you money.

When building your first (or next) computer box, consider the future. Buying the right stuff the first time and spending a little extra means savings for the long-term.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

What’s The Best Advantage Of Building A PC?

The brand Walgreen’s carried was obviously generic and not something you’d recognize. This got me wondering whether there is a true difference quality and reliability-wise concerning the flash memory inside a USB stick from one brand to the next.

Curious, I searched the internet to see if anyone has done any testing of flash memory reliability on a brand level.

One such place is CNET and they have a whole section on it. It includes just about every type of flash memory you can imagine with editors reviews, video and so on. The brand you have right now might be listed there, so you can see how it fared out.

The 2 top-rated brands for USB sticks are Sandisk and Lexar.

For everything else, the two top complaints are usually the same concerning USB sticks, that being "slow write speed" and design complaints (i.e. the plastic cap falls off easily, flimsy covering, etc.)

It would appear that yes, there are notable differences from one brand to the next. While a design flaw may be something most people could live with, slow write speeds would drive anyone bonkers (especially considering USB 2.0 transfer speeds are already slow to begin with).

The advice of the moment I give is this:

If you see some generic brand of USB stick, it’s a crapshoot whether or not the design will be solid or flimsy, and whether or not the data transfer will be speedy or not. It might be a few extra bucks for a Sandisk cruzer, but at least you’ll know what you buy will work optimally as it should.

(And by the way, yes the previous link will show you some 16GB versions of Sandisk cruzers. Pretty neat you can put 16GB in your pocket, eh?)

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

4GB USB Sticks Now At… Walgreen’s?

First, a quick look at cost.

Cost-wise, RAM is the cheapest it’s ever been. 2GB Desktop PC memory is under the 25-dollar mark, so assuming your computer can support it physically, there’s no reason not to go 2GB.

Second, a look at operating systems.

32-bit Windows NT, 2000 and XP will easily support 2GB RAM on-board. And although you could put in 4 it is unlikely you’ll see any difference performance-wise (assuming the OS can even access it).

The same can be said for Mac OS X and Linux on a 32-bit platform as a desktop OS. In general use you will not see any huge leaps in performance from 2GB to 4GB RAM. Maybe if you were running a server you would, but on the desktop side, most likely not.

Third, a look at performance (the performance that matters, that is).

The Big Question: Will you see a performance improvement going from 512MB or 1GB to 2GB? Yes – but not necessarily in the way you would expect.

For example, if you upgrade from 1GB to 2GB, here’s what you can expect:

• Faster application launch and shutdown times.
• The ability to run more apps at once without having your computer "think" about it as much.
• Smoother switching between apps.
• Smoother web browsing (especially on Flash-intensive web pages).

And here’s what not to expect:

• Better gameplay on high-end video games. (This is highly dependent on not only RAM but video card RAM, clock speed and hard drive access times – just the RAM upgrade isn’t enough.)
• Better video performance. (That’s the video card’s job – not the physical RAM’s job.)
• Faster large-file read/write. (Even with more memory, if your hard drive access times are slow, that has everything to do with the hard drive and nothing to do with physical RAM.)

Is 2GB RAM now the standard?

I say yes. The RAM is dirt cheap, the installation takes only minutes and there’s nothing in your operating system you have to change or adjust once installed. Just install, boot and enjoy.

If you have absolutely no idea how to fit RAM for your computer, head over to www.crucial.com, select your make/line/model and it does all the work for you. Or just use the System Scanner.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Is 2GB RAM Now The Standard?

If you are not sure what type of memory you need, use a memory selector such as what Crucial or NewEgg offer (both of these places are also excellent places to buy your memory).

Unfortunately, if you are using older types of RAM such as PC133 or DDR (1), the prices are not as cheap. If this is the case, check out Ebay where you can usually pick up new or good as new stuff for quite a bit cheaper than buying it new.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Memory Is Ultra Cheap. Why Not Add More?

The other day, I stumbled across Newegg’s “Memory Configurator” (not sure if that is even a word) which basically runs a search in their product database for all memory which is a fit for your system. Considering Newegg is, seemingly, the most popular online vendor with this site’s readers, this makes a great tool.

I have recently placed an order which resulted from use of this tool and plan to use it a lot more in the future.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Newegg’s Memory “Configurator”

ROM

This is read-only memory, memory that can only be read, but cannot be written to. ROM is used in situations where the data must be held permanently. This is due to the fact that it is non-volatile memory. This means the data is “hard-wired” into the ROM chip. You can store the chip forever and the data will always be there. Besides, the data is very secure. The BIOS is stored on ROM because the user cannot disrupt the information.

There are different types of ROM, too:
Programmable ROM(PROM). This is basically a blank ROM chip that can be written to, but only once. It is much like a CD-R drive that burns the data into the CD. Some companies use special machinery to write PROMs for special purposes.
Erasable Programmable ROM (EPROM). This is just like PROM, except that you can erase the ROM by shining a special ultra-violet light into a sensor atop the ROM chip for a certain amount of time. Doing this wipes the data out, allowing it to be rewritten.
Electrically Erasable Programmable ROM (EEPROM). Also called flash BIOS. This ROM can be rewritten through the use of a special software program. Flash BIOS operates this way, allowing users to upgrade their BIOS.

ROM is slower than RAM, which is why some try to shadow it to increase speed.

RAM

Random Access Memory (RAM) is what most of us think of when we hear the word memory associated with computers. It is volatile memory, meaning all data is lost when power is turned off. The RAM is used for temporary storage of program data, allowing performance to be optimum.

Like ROM, there are different types of RAM:

Static RAM (SRAM)

. This RAM will maintain it’s data as long as power is provided to the memory chips. It does not need to be re-written periodically. In fact, the only time the data on the memory is refreshed or changed is when an actual write command is executed. SRAM is very fast, but is much more expensive than DRAM. SRAM is often used as cache memory due to its speed.

There are a few types of SRAM:

Async SRAM

An older type of SRAM used in many PC’s for L2 cache. It is asynchronous, meaning that it works independently of the system clock. This means that the CPU found itself waiting for info from the L2 cache.
Sync SRAM. This type of SRAM is synchronous, meaning it is synchronized with the system clock. While this speeds it up, it makes it rather expensive at the same time.
Pipeline Burst SRAM. Commonly used. SRAM requests are pipelined, meaning larger packets of data re sent to the memory at once, and acted on very quickly. This breed of SRAM can operate at bus speeds higher than 66MHz, so is often used.

Dynamic RAM (DRAM)

DRAM, unlike SRAM, must be continually re-written in order for it to maintain its data. This is done by placing the memory on a refresh circuit that re-writes the data several hundred time per second. DRAM is used for most system memory because it is cheap and small.

There are several types of DRAM, complicating the memory scene even more:

Fast Page Mode DRAM (FPM DRAM)

FPM DRAM is only slightly faster than regular DRAM. Before there was EDO RAM, FPM RAM was the main type used in PC’s. It is pretty slow stuff, with an access time of 120 ns. It was eventually tweaked to 60 ns, but FPM was still too slow to work on the 66MHz system bus. For this reason, FPM RAM was replaced by EDO RAM. FPM RAM is not much used today due to its slow speed, but is almost universally supported.

Extended Data Out DRAM (EDO DRAM)

EDO memory incorporates yet another tweak in the method of access. It allows one access to begin while another is being completed. While this might sound ingenious, the performance increase over FPM DRAM is only around 30%. EDO DRAM must be properly supported by the chipset. EDO RAM comes on a SIMM. EDO RAM cannot operate on a bus speed faster than 66MHz, so, with the increasing use of higher bus speeds, EDO RAM has taken the path of FPM RAM.

Burst EDO DRAM (BEDO DRAM)

Original EDO RAM was too slow for the newer systems coming out at the time. Therefore, a new method of memory access had to be developed to speed up the memory. Bursting was the method devised. This means that larger blocks of data were sent to the memory at a time, and each “block” of data not only carried the memory address of the immediate page, but info on the next several pages. Therefore, the next few accesses would not experience any delays due to the preceding memory requests. This technology increases EDO RAM speed up to around 10 ns, but it did not give it the ability to operate stably at bus speeds over 66MHz. BEDO RAM was an effort to make EDO RAM compete with SDRAM.

Synchronous DRAM (SDRAM)

SDRAM became the new standard after EDO bit the dust. Its speed is synchronous, meaning that it is directly dependent on the clock speed of the entire system. Standard SDRAM can handle higher bus speeds. In theory, it could operate at up to 100MHz, although it was found that many other variable factors went into whether or not it could stabily do so. The actual speed capacity of the module depended on the actual memory chips as well as design factors in the memory PCB itself.

To get around the variability, Intel created the PC100 standard. The PC100 standard ensures compatibility of SDRAM subsystems with Intel’s 100MHz FSB processors. The new design, production, and test requirements created challenges for semiconductor companies and memory module suppliers. Each PC100 SDRAM module required key attributes to guarantee full compliance, such as the use of 8ns DRAM components (chips) that are capable of operating at 125MHz. This provided a margin of safety in ensuring that that the memory module could run at PC100 speeds. Additionally, SDRAM chips must be used in conjunction with a correctly programmed EEPROM on a properly designed printed circuit board. The shorter the distance the signal needs to travel, the faster it runs. For this reason, there were additional layers of internal circuitry on PC100 modules.

As PC speeds increased, the same problem was encountered for the 133 MHz bus, so the PC133 standard was developed.

RAMBus DRAM (RDRAM)

Developed by Rambus, Inc. and endorsed by Intel as the chosen successor to SDRAM. RDRAM narrows the memory bus to 16-bit and runs at up to 800 MHz. Since this narrow bus takes up less space on the board, systems can get more speed by running multiple channels in parallel. Despite the speed, RDRAM has had a tough time taking off in the market because of compatibility and timing issues. Heat is also an issue, but RDRAM has heatsinks to dissipate this. Cost is a major issue with RDRAM, with manufacturers needing to make major facility changes to make it and the product cost to consumers being too high for people to swallow.

DDR-SDRAM (DDR)

This type of memory is the natural evolution from SDRAM and most manufacturers prefer this to Rambus because not much needs to be changed to make it. Also, memory makers are free to manufacture it because it is an open standard, whereas they would have to pay license fees to Rambus, Inc. in order make RDRAM. DDR stands for Double Data Rate. DDR shuffles data over the bus over both the rise and fall of the clock cycle, effectively doubling the speed over that of standard SDRAM. Due to its advantages over RDRAM, DDR-SDRAM support was implemented by almost all major chipset manufacturers, and quickly became the new memory standard for the majority of PC’s. Speeds ranged from 100mhz DDR (with operating speed of 200MHz), or pc1600 DDR-SDRAM, all the way to current rates of 200mhz DDR (with operating speed of 400MHz), or pc3200 DDR-SDRAM. Some memory manufactures produce even faster DDR-SDRAM memory modules which readily appeal to the overclocker crowd.

DDR-SDRAM 2 (DDR2)

The latest DDR-SDRAM technology to hit the market for PC’s has become known simply as DDR-SDRAM 2 or DDR2. It features several advantages over conventional DDR-SDRAM (DDR), with the main one being that in each memory cycle DDR2 now transmits for 4 bits of information from logical (internal) memory to the I/O buffers. standard DDR-SDRAM only transmits 2 bits of information each memory cycle. Because of this, normal DDR-SDRAM requires the internal memory and I/O buffers to both operate at 200MHz to reach a total external operating speed of 400MHz. Due to DDR2’s ability to transmit twice as many bits per cycle from logical (internal) memory to the I/O buffers (this technology is formally known as 4 bit prefetch), the internal memory speed can actually run at 100MHz instead of 200MHz, and the total external operating speed will still be 400MHz. Mainly what all this comes down to is that DDR-SDRAM 2 will be able to operate at higher total operating frequencies thanks to its 4 bit prefetch technology (e.g. a 200mhz internal memory speed would yield a total external operating speed of 800mhz!) than DDR-SDRAM. Currently, this is the memory standard on most new motherboards.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Memory Types

Computer memory is one of those areas that causes quite a bit of unnecessary confusion for newbies. Memory is a fairly straight-forward thing and, for the most part, there is not a whole lot to consider. There are, though, a few terms and concepts that are thrown around, and I will seek to explain them here.

Memory Speed

There are various specs used to specify the speed of a memory module. Older memory types have their speeds measured in terms of access time, or the time it takes to pull a piece of data from memory and get it onto the memory bus. This is usually measured it terms of nanoseconds (ns). A typical access time would be 50-60 ns. Beginning with SDRAM, speed was measured in terms of cycle time, or the minimum amount of time between memory accesses. Typical cycle times for SDRAM are 12, 10 and 8 ns, with faster speeds also seen.

A wait state is a command which orders the CPU to pause for one clock cycle in order to wait for the memory to do something. It is basically a waste of time, because the processor is just sitting there and doing nothing. Older systems sometimes used 2 or 3 wait states, while later ones used only 1. A zero wait state is best, because that means the processor is not waiting around for the slower memory. The concept of wait state was devised to allow systems to support older memory types. Most systems that use wait states (except the really old ones) have the wait state setting controlled in the motherboard’s CMOS, usually in the advanced settings section.

SDRAM is synchronous, meaning it is tied into the bus speed of the system. This means that the memory must be fast enough to work on the system you intend to put it on. SDRAM does not use wait states for this reason. The memory, then, must be fast enough for the system, taking slack into account. It is really this reason why SDRAM was created in the first place: to make memory that could keep up with the system. For older systems, EDO RAM does just fine. At the 66MHz speed, EDO was a dream, as that is what it was really designed for. It was soon found that EDO RAM worked just fine at even higher speeds, such as 75MHz or 83MHz. SDRAM was designed mainly to operate with stability at bus speeds such as 100MHz or 133MHz. A majority of users today are making decisions between PC-100 and PC-133 memory. In short, PC-100 is designed for a 100MHz bus speed while, obviously, PC-133 is designed for the 133MHz bus speed. Both modules can typically be ran faster than this in overclocking situations, but this can lead to unstability of the PC. So, these ratings are considered the “stable” rating, or the speed at which the memory can run without any stability concerns.

Determining Memory Speed

It can prove challenging to determine the speed of a memory module simply by looking at it. Unless there is a sticker of some sort on it from the distributor, you are pretty much stuck with cross-referencing part numbers with catalogs to determine just how fast a module is supposed to be. Sometimes, though, you can determine the access time or cycle time (depending on the memory types) of a module by looking at the numbers on it. For example, on EDO memory, adding a -6 or a -7 to the end of the part number usually means 60ns and 70 ns access times respectively. Wiuth SDRAM, a -10 means 10ns cycle time.

Nanosecond were used before the PC100 standard was defined. With the standard, you pretty much knew what you were getting with a particular spec, so tracking the actual cycle times was irrelevant.

CAS Latency

CAS Latency is a measure of latency of a memory chip. CAS stands for Column Access Select. Basically, it is a measure of how long it takes from when an initial READ command is sent to memory to when the first piece of the resulting data is output. The measurement is done in clock cycles, so a CAS Latency of x means that a READ command sent to memory at clock cycle c will result in data output starting at clock cycle c + x.

CAS Latency is very closely tied with the system bus speed you are using. On faster bus speeds, data is flying by the memory at a faster rate. This pushes the memory even harder. But, as mentioned above, all memory chips have an access time, even SDRAM. But, that “S” in SDRAM means that is is synchronous, running at the speed of the system bus. So, regardless of the access time of the memory, the bus pushes even harder at high bus speeds. So, at higher bus speeds, it may be necessary to make use of wait states anyway in order to make the memory is capable of operating. But, wait states, on SDRAM, are done in the RAM itself rather than actually having the CPU waiting around. So, it may be necessary to increase the CAS latency on higher bus speeds in order to maintain system stability. This will control how often the CPU will deliver a command to make the memory wait the specified number of clock cycles for the memory to begin output.

In short, CAS3 is the standard latency for memory modules, because it is cheaper to manufacture. If the CAS spec is not mentioned or defined, it is probably CAS3. CAS2, though, is a faster memory module. The latency is less, and this leads to faster application speeds. As you might expect, such memory is typically more expensive. If you are using CAS2 memory and it is enabled as such in the BIOS, you might notice a bit of a speed increase. Even with CAS2 memory, though, it could be necessary to choose CAS3 in your CMOS in order to make the memory stable in a higher bus-speed compter. 

2-clock vs. 4-Clock

Two types of SDRAMs are the 2-clock and the 4-clock. Structurally, they are the same, but they are accessed differently. A 2-clock SDRAM module is set up so that each clock cycle accesses two chips on the module. A 4-clock SDRAM setup accesses 4 chips per clock cycle. To choose what kind to get, you must look into the motherboard’s documentation. 4-clock modules seem to be the popular choice.

Serial Presence Detect

Some SDRAM modules have a special EEPROM chip on it that holds information about the SDRAM module, such as speed settings. The motherboard then queries this chip for info and makes changes in the settings to work with the SDRAM. Basically, this allows the SDRAM module and the chipset to communicate, making the SDRAM more reliable on a larger number of motherboards. Some motherboards require this feature. You will have to look at the manual, once again. If your board requires it, make sure you have it, because SDRAM without this won’t work.

When choosing SDRAM for your computer, you need to know your motherboard and get exactly the type it requires.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Memory Considerations

Price, quality, and quantity… three very important factors that guide you in the selection of your computer system\’s physical memory. The \”price\” part is now at an all time low. Just checking at www.pricewatch.com, I found a 256 meg stick of generic memory for all of $16.00. You can\’t get a better \”bang-for-your-buck\” product that will provide your computer with as much of a dramatic increase in system performance as an upgrade in RAM will. Now the big question… Who to buy from?

Two highly recognized names come to mind -  Crucial and Mushkin.

Click to see Picture of Modules

Crucial has long been regarded as \”the memory experts\”.  It\’s hard to dispute this, as they are the largest DRAM manufacturer in America and one of the top three in the world. A division of Micron, Crucial offers over 73,000 upgrades for more than 13,000 different computers.

Mushkin, on the other hand has always been a favorite for overclockers and their memory needs. Mushkin hand picks their memory chips and selects only the very best to put on their modules so that you are guaranteed to get the performance printed on the module - and then some. Mushkin is focused more on quality than quantity.  It is reflected in the high performance of their memory modules.

This review compares modules from both companies, testing their performance, tolerances, and price differences, ultimately showing that you get what you pay for.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Memory Matchup

Many of these actions involve making changes to the CONFIG.SYS file. Remember, you want to keep a backup of the last CONFIG.SYS that your system last worked correctly with. So, backup yours before making any of these changes. Most name their backup copy CONFIG.BAK.

Here are some things you could try:

• Thin out your AUTOEXEC.BAT and CONFIG.SYS file. Many times these files call up programs that are simply not needed or not there. These lines can be removed. Better yet, just add REM to the beginning of the line you want to take out. This makes it a \”remark\” and the computer will not execute that line.
  
• Use the HIMEM.SYS file. At the top of CONFIG.SYS, add two lines: \”DEVICE=C:WINDOWSHIMEM.SYS\” and \”DOS=HIGH,UMB\”. This will call up HIMEM.SYS, a program that loads DOS into high memory, or that first 64K of memory, that all DOS programs fight over.
  
• Use EMM386.SYS. This program enables DOS to load drivers and other automatically loaded programs into the upper memory while conserving conventional memory. To use it, add the following to CONFIG.SYS right after the HIMEM.SYS line: \”DEVICE=C:WINDOWSEMM386.EXE\”. There are a couple parameters you should add to this line. To disable expanded memory, which hardly anybody needs, add \”NOEMS\” to disable the EMS buffer. To disable the Monochrome Video Area, add \”I=B000-B7FF\”. This disables the monochrome area that is used by the really old DOS programs that were monochrome. Today, with everything in color, this is just a waste of 32K of conventional memory.
  
• With HIMEM.SYS and EMM386.SYS working, it gives you the ability to move drivers and programs that would usually reside in conventional memory up to the upper memory. To do this, you simply add HIGH to the lines loading up the drivers. For example, in the CONFIG.SYS file, a driver will be loaded by \”DEVICE=\”. To load this driver into upper memory, you call it up by \”DEVICEHIGH=\”. In AUTOEXEC.BAT, you can place a program in upper memory by adding \”LOADHIGH\” to the line that runs the program. Most drivers can be moved to upper memory, including CD-ROM, mouse, etc.

Taking this into account, a typical CONFIG.SYS may look something like this:

DEVICE=C:WINDOWSHIMEM.SYS
DEVICE=C:WINDOWSEMM386.EXE NOEMS
I=B000-B7FF

DEVICEHIGH={Your System Drivers Go Here}
DOS=HIGH,UMB
FILES=100
BUFFERS=40
BREAK=ON
LASTDRIVE=Z

I\’ll just make a note here that this page pretty much refers to Windows 3.x users. Windows 3.x still depends on the conventional memory. Windows 95 has the ability to take full advantage of all of the system memory, so these tips don\’t have much impact.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Freeing Up Conventional Memory