Adesso’s CyberTablet comes provided with the tablet itself, a pen with replaceable tips, its own mouse and driver software. The tablet itself is connected via a built-in standard USB cable.

The first thing to note is that the provided mouse isn’t that great and you probably won’t be using it – but that’s fine since you didn’t buy it for the mouse anyway. Since it’s a USB device you can use it in combination with your existing mouse and use the tablet as the mouse pad when not drawing or writing with the pen.

The drivers and software it comes with are decidedly old, but do work in all versions of Windows including Windows 7. Upon first install you will be required to perform a system restart to gain full functionality.

The pen included does require you to change the AAA battery in it every so often, but not so much as it would prove to be inconvenient.

When I used the CyberTablet 6400, I found it’s much better suited for writing than drawing. It’s handwriting recognition is decent and the software allows you to “train” it if it makes mistakes when recognizing what you write.

In a few instances the tracking was slightly off, but then again I didn’t “train” it too much. With regular use the tracking issues would fix themselves.

Being this is an entry level tablet, it’s not the best for freehand drawing. This is not to say it can’t do it, because it can and does so easily, but it doesn’t have the super-sensitive tracking much more expensive tablets have. If you draw using point-to-point, you’ll get along fine with the CyberTablet, but for true freehand style you may need something larger with more sensitivity. This Adesso tablet has low sensitivity when it comes to writing or drawing.

If you use a Mac, you might have some difficulties with this tablet. When David (PCMech’s founder) tried this tablet on his Mac, the installation of drivers proved very difficult. The install routine got into an endless loop and David was forced to manually “force quit” the install program. Once the drivers were installed, it was hard to determine whether everything was working properly because no solid instructions were provided on how to actually go about USING the tablet.

Overall, the CyberTable 6400 gets the job done and works as advertised. However, as a tablet priced at $69.99 as of the time of this writing, don’t expect miracles in this price range.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Adesso CyberTablet 6400 Review

If you want a really good example of where a box like this would be needed, look no further than your local church. Traditional churches by nature are all non-profit organizations that operate on a very tight shoestring budget. Whatever technology is brought into the church must have good longevity to it because there’s simply no other purchase options. They can’t lease computer boxes. Whatever they get, they own, and it has to last a long time.

You could, if so desired, opt not to build but rather go with a brand name like Dell as they have new desktop PCs starting at $269. But maybe you’re in the situation where you have to deal with existing PCs because the budget simply won’t allow for the purchase of new computers. In this instance you have to refit them with new parts that will stand the test of time. That’s what this how-to covers.

The icons seen below are from Icon Archive. Be sure to check that place out for some truly good looking icons for Windows, Mac or Linux.

  Motherboard and CPU

It used to be that AMD was cheaper than Intel, but this is no longer the case. Were you to compare AMD vs. Intel in both motherboard and CPU prices, you’ll find they’re almost identical on the lower end of the cost spectrum.

When it comes to long-haul computing, the prevention of heat is a major consideration. Fortunately this is easy to take care of, because all you have to do is employ the use of a low-watt CPU. AMD has 45-watt offerings and Intel has 35-watt. Either is a good choice.

  RAM

With desktop memory the goal is to use the "slowest" possible sticks you can buy. Once again this is done to avoid heat. Use the bare minimum clock speed that the RAM banks will support, and put the maximum amount of RAM in the box it can support.

Also try, if possible, to use same-brand RAM. This will avoid any unforeseen issues with old RAM, as in some instances old sticks do not "play nice" with new ones. It is rare when this happens, but not out of the realm of possibility and you probably don’t have a RAM tester. (If you do have one however, use it.)

  Hard Drive

This step is simple, stick with 7200rpm hard disk drives. Were it a few years ago I would have recommended to use a 5400rpm (again, for less heat), but those offerings are now all but gone for standard 3.5-inch drives, and you’ll spend too much on a 5400rpm due to its rarity. The tried-and-true 7200rpm SATA of any media storage size works fine.

  Sound Card

Any. Doesn’t matter what you use as long as it works. You’ll most likely use the on-board sound from the motherboard anyway.

  Video Card

If the motherboard has a built-in video port, use it. Heat is avoided by doing this. If there isn’t any on-board video, what to use for a video card depends on the operating system. I’ll cover that in a moment.

  Optical drive

As long as the customer reviews for the optical drive you’re shopping for are favorable and it can play, read and burn CDs and DVDs, that’s all that matters.

  Case fans

This is the only part of the build where you absolutely cannot go low-cost. The case fans you use must be of premium grade, have good bearings and be as quiet as possible. Their only job in life is to cool, so don’t go cheap with these.

Here’s an example of a premium case fan. Yes, it’s almost $25 per fan. But it’s one of the best you can buy and totally worth the money.

I’m not saying you have to buy $25 case fans, but don’t go with the two-dollar cheap stuff. Do so and the PC’s life will end earlier.

  Operating System

If the box has a legal licensed copy of Windows XP or Vista, you’re all set. Continue to use it, continue to automatically download auto-updates as they are provided.

XP runs happily with 1GB of RAM and a 64MB video card. You can’t game on it, but you can do just about everything else.

The system requirements for Vista state it can get by on 1GB RAM, but as everybody knows it needs at least 2GB. The minimums also state that 128MB video is needed, but in reality 512MB suits it much better.

If the box has an illegal copy of XP or Vista, you need to either purchase a license of Windows 7 or switch to Linux – especially if the box you’re building is going to be used by somebody else. Why? Because somewhere along the line Windows will break without its needed updates eventually. And if you’re the one building a box for someone else, guess who gets the first phone call when somehow the end user magically turns on auto-updates and WGA disables Windows? That’s right, you do. Do you honestly want to deal with that?

The purchase of 7 is out of the question for most people because it blows the budget. You’d have to buy a full license of Windows 7 Home Premium, which costs just under $110. The "Starter" Edition of Windows 7 is only available to OEMs and not the general public unfortunately.

Linux’s strongest point is that it’s free. The flavor that’s the most suitable choice is the very recently released Ubuntu 9.10.

If you happen to be building/refitting a box for someone else, and that person only requires the basics of computing, you may want to consider Ubuntu Netbook Remix instead. It’s designed for netbooks, but has superior performance on low-end computer boxes. It also helps that the 9.10 UNR interface is super-friendly to use.

One of the few things that may prove to be a roadblock with UNR is printing. This is not Ubuntu’s fault, but rather the fact that most printers only come provided with proprietary Windows and Mac control software.

Check printer compatibility here for Ubuntu. It’s well worth the time to take a few minutes to read that over for your specific printer. Yours should be there as the lists are extensive. You know you’re in good shape if your printer is listed as both supported and working.

  Mouse

At least mid-grade quality, not wireless and manufactured by Microsoft or Logitech.

  Keyboard

Same requirements as the mouse.

  Monitor

You’ll most likely be using the existing monitor. If buying another, don’t buy used. Buy new.

The price for a new low-cost LCD monitor off the shelf will be between $125 and $175.

If you opt to buy online, specifically seek out the ones with free shipping, else you’ll pay the same price as you would off the shelf for the same thing.

As for the size, don’t buy anything under 18 inches. It’s simply not worth it.

  Software

In a basic sense, your computer must be able to:

• Browse the web
• Have the ability to use instant messaging easily
• Compose documents and spreadsheets and be able to share those documents easily
• Be able to import images from a digital camera easily
• Be able to edit images on a basic level easily
• Print
• Be able to burn CDs and DVDs
• Play DVD video
• Have sufficient protection against spyware, malware and viruses

Here’s each point covered one by one. I’m listing very specific choices that don’t require any additional software unless absolutely necessary. The less software installed, the better off the overall installation is.

Browse the web

Windows: Internet Explorer
Ubuntu: Firefox

Instant messaging

Windows: Windows Live Messenger
Ubuntu: Pidgin

Documents and Spreadsheets

Windows: OpenOffice
Ubuntu: OpenOffice

Digital Camera image import / Basic photo editing

Windows: Windows Live Photo Gallery
Ubuntu: F-Spot

Printing

Windows: Use provided printer control software CD or download from printer OEM’s web site
Ubuntu: Depends if the printer is supported or not by the OS (see above)

Burning CDs and DVDs

Windows, Data/Backup: Built-in to the OS natively, drag/drop
Windows, Music: Windows Media Player

Ubuntu, Data/Backup: Built-in to the OS natively, drag/drop
Ubuntu, Music: Brasero (included with OS)

Play DVD Video

Windows XP: Not included with DVD video codecs on fresh XP install. Codec must be provided by purchased player software such as WinDVD or CyberDVD.

Windows Vista/7: Codecs included, uses Windows Media Player to play DVDs.

Ubuntu: Codecs included, uses Totem to play DVDs.

Virus, spyware and malware protection

Windows: Microsoft Security Essentials or any other number of free protection suites.

Ubuntu: Generally speaking, not required because of the way Linux is designed. But if you feel you need it, there’s documentation aplenty on it.

  Placement

If you have the option, place the PC on the desk and not on the floor. As you know, computers are dirt magnets. This not only makes the computer box easier to clean but also keeps it away from dust and dirt that collects on the floor that the case fans would otherwise suck inside the box.

  Performance notes and other tips

The only time you’ll experience true slowdowns is on web pages with heavy Flash use. Then again, Flash will bring any web browser to its knees if you throw enough of that content at it even on the fastest of computers.

It is better if the PC has wired instead of wireless networking as it will speed things up quite a bit concerning internet usage. It’s not that wireless won’t work, but you want to give any speed advantage you can, so if you have the option, use wired internet connectivity.

Automate everything you possibly can. For example, if using a Windows OS you could use Defraggler to schedule drive defragmenting easily.

If you can, clone the drive once everything is installed, so if something busts on a major level, you’ve got a "vanilla" copy ready to be imaged back if the need arises.

Try (or instruct whoever is getting the PC) to get in the habit of "living in the browser." Keep installed apps to a minimum. The less apps there are, the less likely something will break on the software side and in many cases the speedier the OS will run, regardless of what OS it is. The best way to do this is to stay in the browser as much as possible.

For every app you download and install, save that to USB stick or CD/DVD. It’s also smart to perform a software inventory periodically just in case you have to reinstall the OS for whatever reason.

For any hardware you installed that has a warranty, put all the paperwork in an envelope and physically tape it to the side or top of the case. It’s not pretty, but you’ll never lose the info, should you need it.

Final notes

The best way to treat an older computer is to configure it like a kiosk would be. A kiosk by nature is set up to be simple and efficient. If you use Ubuntu Netbook Remix, this is very much how your computer will act, and that’s not a bad thing. You can do the same with Windows by hiding the taskbar, avoiding the Start menu when possible and placing the icons for the apps you regularly use on the desktop.

If you approach computing this way with an older refitted PC box and build it as outlined above, it should easily last 5 or more years.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Long Haul Low-Cost PC "Refit" How-To

Since there is inherently nothing exciting about USB flash drives, some companies have devised ways to make them interesting. One such company is FlashDealer.com, a producer of custom USB drives.

Now, there are many companies out there who do custom flash drives. I’ve looked into them myself, in fact, with an idea of potentially selling PCMech branded USB drives to you, my readers. Logo-imprinted drives are easy to come by. What makes FlashDealer.com interesting is because they do completely custom drives. So custom, in fact, that they must have a little army of elves in the north pole producing these things by hand.

That picture to the right is actually a USB flash drive, configured to look like a fire extinguisher. If you look on their website, they have drives configured to look like Kit-Kat bars, UPS trucks, even beer bottles.

This kind of thing probably wouldn’t be worth it for a consumer, however business owners could potentially use this type of product for promotional reasons. Like I said, I’ve thought about doing it for PCMech (and still might at some point).

Kudos to companies who make a boring product creative.

NOTE: This writeup is a sponsored post.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Flash Drives That Look Like Fire Extinguishers

From some quick research, there doesn’t appear to be a universal way to toggle this functionality, as it depends on your hardware and the respective configuration utilities. Our laptop at home uses a Synaptics mouse touchpad driver and the configuration utility has an option to disable the touchpad when the mouse is plugged in.

A quick Google search on your hardware should give you all the details you need on how to enable this if it supported.

If anyone takes advantage of this feature, please post your hardware specs to help others out.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Disable The Touchpad When A Mouse Is Plugged In

Every time I use Dave’s computer box I have to deal with that stupid thing.

If you ever wanted a way to keep people from using your computer, use a trackball mouse. It’s a sure-fire way to say that if you’re not willing to "thumb it", you sir (or ma’am), won’t be able to use my computer.

It’s not like trackball mice are plentiful. NewEgg doesn’t have too many to choose from. But this probably makes users of this awful input device very smug, like it’s a secret society of annoying-mouse users or something.

Folks who use trackball mice are nice enough people. It’s just that I strongly disagree with their choice of mouse. It’s big; it’s ugly; it should be banned like asbestos.

One of these days I’m going to bring a scissors to Dave’s place, cut the wire, chuck the mouse in the garbage then blame it on the cat.

The only thing worse than a trackball mouse is a keyboard with blank keys.

Trackball people, I respect you as computer users, but your mouse sucks.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Ode To Those Who Use Trackball Mice

For example, I don’t have to buy a new case, nor do I have to buy a new optical drive. I also don’t need new audio speakers, mouse, keyboard or monitor. In my current setup I could also transfer over my video card as well.

When you add these things up it shaves off a lot of cash you would otherwise have to spend.

Many PCMech readers have built PCs before, but if you’re someone who hasn’t yet, I can say without question that your most expensive build will probably be the first one. And this is because you have nothing to transfer from a previous build. Everything must be bought new and yes, it can get costly – but only for the first time around.

What you can do is think of the future when building your first box so it will cost less when you upgrade later. The checklist is short and easy to remember.

Future-use things to consider when PC building

Computer Case

Your case should be a full-sized tower. The reason is so you can use standard ATX or MicroATX motherboards. This gives you more choice of what motherboard you want to use now and in the future.

The case you buy should be above average. You want something built well that will withstand the test of time. Being that your intent is to use the same case over and over, build quality matters.

Motherboard

Use a motherboard that supports several different types of processors. The better ones support at least four. This Intel motherboard for example does just that. For now maybe you want a Core 2 Duo processor but later on want to upgrade to a Quad-core. Using a motherboard that supports multiple CPU types will save you cash because you don’t have to buy another board when ready to upgrade.

Also bear in mind the new board you buy should support (at the time of this writing) a minimum of 8GB of RAM which the one linked above does. If you buy a new board that only supports 4GB, that’s your limit – and that’s not good. 8GB should stay current for at least 5 years, and you can incrementally update as needed.

Optical Drive

This is something you don’t have to put a ton of cash into because more people are moving away from the optical format in favor of flash-based media.

Concerning this particular component, the key is to avoid things you don’t need that add extra cost, such as:

• LightScribe – This is more for "cool factor" than anything else. You’re better off just labeling your discs with a Sharpie marker. It’s cheaper and does the same job. True, it doesn’t look as professional, but nobody cares.
• Super fast DVD burning – Not necessary. Why? Because getting blank media that supports the higher speeds costs more and probably isn’t available on the shelf where you buy discs. Most of the time the blank media you buy will be 12x max write speed for DVD and 30x max for CD, so the fact your drive can burn faster means nothing unless you’re willing to custom order blank discs that support it – which you probably won’t.
• Blu-Ray compatible – Again, not necessary. The only people truly interested in this format are those who have Blu-ray players for their television. And yes, you will get a big-big 25GB of storage on one of these BD-R discs, but, each disc at present costs $5 – and that doesn’t include shipping. You’re better off using flash-based media, if only for the fact that write/rewrite is much easier and faster compared to optical.

Input Devices (Keyboard and Mouse)

Concerning the mouse, make sure it connects via USB. With wireless, go for RF and not Bluetooth. For example, a really kick-ass wireless mouse is the Logitech G7. It’s got a ridiculous price tag (but worth it to some) and is USB/RF-wireless based. And don’t worry, there are plenty of RF-wireless USB mice that are much lower in price, like this one.

Note that there’s nothing bad or wrong about Bluetooth wireless, but you get more choice with RF. A lot more.

Concerning the keyboard, you want something that will stand the test of time like your computer case. There are many keyboard makes to choose from, but typically the best for long-term use are made by Microsoft and Logitech. Sure, other keyboards have lots of whiz-bang features on it, but what matters most is comfort and longevity.

With Microsoft and Logitech it’s the simple things that make them better, such as not having the lettering literally wear off your keys in less than six months.

Of course, neither beat the best computer keyboard of all time, the IBM Model M. But that takes a little bit of doing (i.e. a USB converter) to make the older ones work. And lets not forget they’re frickin’ loud. A resounding CLICK-CLACK happens every time you press a key on one of those. But it’s a good sound. At least I think so.

Audio speakers

The only rule to follow here is to use an audio speaker setup that is not overly dependent on software. And what I mean by that is you should not buy speakers that require software just to hear sound come out of them.

Whatever you buy should work like this: Open the box, take the speakers out, plug the AC adapter into the wall, plug in the audio cable to the sound card, done.

Software that controls the sound card is fine (and necessary). Software that’s required just to make the speakers work is bad.

If you want an example of bad, Creative is notorious for having speaker setups that are too "attached" to software, so to speak. And without their proprietary software installed, the speakers either sound like crap or not work at all. Not good.

Final notes

Many people make the mistake of building a PC that only has "right-now" tech in it, meaning the end build will not stay current for more than 2 years at the most.

For example, let’s say you bought a brand new motherboard today but it can only use a Core 2 Duo processor as the fastest it will support. That’s a mistake. Yes, the Core 2 right now is fast – but it won’t be 2 years from now and you’ll be forced to buy another motherboard later when the time comes. What you should have done is bought a board that can support Core 2 or Quad-core. When the Core 2 becomes too slow, it’s not a problem because you can upgrade to a Quad-core and get another 2 or 3 years out of the same motherboard, thereby saving you money.

When building your first (or next) computer box, consider the future. Buying the right stuff the first time and spending a little extra means savings for the long-term.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

What’s The Best Advantage Of Building A PC?

ExtremeTech has two good articles which outline what model might be best suited for what purpose:

• The Best Keyboards for Every Occasion
• The Best Computer Mice in Every Category

Each article breaks down the respective device by several categories and gives a review of each. One thing to note is price doesn’t really seem to be a consideration. Depending on the use, however, sometimes the cost may well be worth the design.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

A Keyboard And Mouse For Every Purpose

If you stock your built PC with parts that are the right choice the first time, your Windows installation will run better and faster.

Please Login or Register to read the rest of this article. Gold/Silver Membership required.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Building A “Perfect” Windows PC

The vast majority of laptops use Lithium Ion (abbreviated Li-ion) batteries. Before that was nickel-metal hydride (NiMH) and before that Nickel Cadmium (NiCd or NiCad).

For those wondering if NiCad batteries are still used in laptops, the answer is yes, but not as the primary power source. An example use of a NiCad would be used as the CMOS battery in a laptop.

Here are my tips for buying laptop batteries.

Tip 1. Never buy direct from the OEM.

If I were to buy a battery for my older Dell Inspiron 6000 direct from Dell, it would be easily over $100.

If I buy from eBay, it’s less than half the price.

In fact, I could get one for as low as $40 new.

Tip 2. If you can afford it, go for a 9-cell.

Most laptops have 6-cell and 9-cell types of batteries. The ones with more cells hold a longer charge. And yes, the 9’s are more expensive exactly for that reason.

Tip 3. Go for the lowest price possible.

There is absolutely no reason to spend any more than you have to on a replacement battery. As long as what you get comes from a reputable reseller and the battery is new on arrival, that’s all you should care about.

The only additional consideration is if the battery comes with a warranty. Most new ones carry a warranty of at least six months – and that’s more than enough time to find out whether or not it will hold a proper charge.

Need more juice?

If you need extra power beyond the battery, consider getting a universal notebook battery (external), such as the one made by APC.

Yes, it is universal and really works. If you’re mobile quite a bit, you’ll like it a lot.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

3 Tips On Buying Laptop Batteries

With that said, here’s how it’s fared out so far.

First I’ll note that I do a ton of writing (obviously) so I have put the keyboard thru its paces and no, I’m not a gamer.

Overall feel

The first thing I noticed in the negative respect is that the keys felt "spongey". What I can say now is that they don’t feel that way any longer. This is a keyboard that definitely has to be "broken in", so to speak. The feel of the keys is now better than it was two weeks ago.

Lighting

All the lights still work, but as some past reviewers of this keyboard have noticed (as do I), the topmost keys are a bit on the dim side. And when I say topmost I’m referring to the function keys, PrntScrn/Scroll Lock/Pause keys and so on. But being I don’t use those keys too often it’s not that big of a deal.

Ergonomics

The supplied keyboard wrist rest is more or less worthless for me for the fact it has a slope. I plan on getting a regular "ugly" soft-padded rest. What a keyboard wrist rest is supposed to do is keep your wrists level with your hands, and this one definitely does not do that whatsoever.

Cool looking? Yes. Functional? Yes. Ergo-friendly? No.

Noise

Only now do I realize how LOUD my previous keyboard was compared to the Saitek. I’m liking the fact I don’t hear constant click-clacking. Granted, yes it’s still there (you can’t completely eliminate it), but it’s almost as quiet as my laptop keyboard.

My only complaint is that I also realize I was going by sound when typing certain words and phrases on my previous keyboard, so I’ve had to re-learn how to type a few things. Not a big deal.

Proper height/spacing

Some keyboards try to do things differently by offering taller keys or having them spaced further apart, etc. The Saitek is just a standard layout and it’s very much appreciated.

Verdict

I don’t regret the purchase. At first I thought I might but now that’s it’s broken in I’m getting along with it nicely.

Post from: PCMech. Helping Normal People Get Their Geek On And Live The Digital Lifestyle.

Saitek Eclipse Keyboard, Two Weeks Later