The idea here is (as I understand it) the fan only uses 7 volts of power instead of the usual 12, which in turn causes fewer RPMs which causes the fan to run quieter. Of course the lower RPMs will lead to slightly less air flow.

From what I have read about this, it appears to be safe for your power supply, but you must make sure you do not plug any other components into this modified plug! The only ’side effect’ I have read about is either the fan does not work on only 7 volts or the fan does kind of an off and on spurt.

Has anyone tried this? If so, post your experience.

Item number 4 seems to be the most attractive option of all the models available, but would run you $300:

This foldable charger is small enough to fit in most backpacks and laptop bags, and powerful enough to juice up your laptop, PDA, GPS and more; it’ll even power up rechargable batteries.

Whereas the the more economical model number 1 would only cost $20-50 and could charge all your small gadgets.

Obviously the great thing about any one of the solar chargers is you are not bound to a wall plug and the prices are very reasonably priced considering once you have one, you can easily recoup the cost in the power you save.

Well, give your overclocked PC a power reducing tune-up with the help of this Tech ARP article titled “Reducing The Power Consumption Of Overclocked PCs“. From what I gathered in the article, the steps which decrease power usage have no noticable impact on the performance of your overclocked PC, so you have nothing to lose… except some power consumption.

After all, if you are overclocking, you probably like to tweak… this helps you make more tweaks to save some cash to apply to your next project.

For example, last week I noticed my power strip was right next to the edge of my desk on the floor. This is fine, but I constantly keep either water or coffee on the same side of the desk. If I were to spill something (knock on wood), there is a very good chance that liquid could end up in the power strip and easily seep into the empty slots and short it out.

Depending on the power strip you have, a short may or may not damage your equipment. Many power strips have built in slides which will cover empty plugs, but it is best to make sure your power strip is far away from anything that can spill. It doesn’t need to be waterproof, but good positioning might help avoid a disaster and a fire hazard.

1. Power points

When purchasing a UPS, make sure the power rating is right for your equipment. If you buy one that is rated too low, you might run out of juice before you can power down. Most UPS devices are designed to provide 10 minutes of power. When selecting a UPS, you need to look at the VA rating — or amps multiplied by voltage (120v). The amp rating should be listed on your computer. Add up the VA ratings of everything you will connect to the UPS, then purchase a UPS with a VA rating 20-25% higher. If you are a home PC user, look for a UPS with a 500-700 VA rating.

2. Backup time

Don’t expect your UPS to keep your PC running all day. Most UPSes are engineered to provide you a backup time of around 10 to 20 minutes. What they essentially do is save your work when there is a power outage and avoid an abrupt shutdown that could mess up your computer settings. Choose the UPS that meets your backup time demands.

3. Other features of a UPS

When you are buying a UPS, ask the vendor about more features than just power. This will help you in finding the UPS which has that one additional option that will help you in your buying decision. Of course, the best feature is Automatic Voltage Regulation (AVR) which isolates your PC from voltage fluctuations that lead to computer disturbances. A UPS with AVR conditions the incoming power before being fed to the PC’s Switch Mode Power Supply (SMPS). Most UPSes also automatically initiate a scheduled shutdown sequence when the power is lost, after saving your work, to prevent damage to the computer hardware.

4. Warranty

Obtain a guarantee before buying a UPS. Undue delays in replacements can affect business. Some vendors offer onsite warranties, where they replace the batteries at your place. If you are planning to use the UPS at work, go for a longer warranty term.

5. Don’t compare SMPS and UPS rating

Even if the SMPS carries a high rating, your UPS needn’t be competitive. A 600 VA rating on a UPS should be fine for most systems. So don’t go on a VA shopping frenzy. Relax.

6. Battery replacement

The general rule is three years. But if you are experiencing low backup times more frequently, you could get the battery replaced immediately if it’s under warranty. If you are facing no problems, expect your battery to work for three years. Its advisable to buy replacement battery cartridges while you are buying the UPS. These cartridges will breathe new life into UPS systems suffering from expired or weak internal batteries. They cost about $30.

7. Power up

Contrary to the myth, its perfectly fine to leave the main switch on even when you are no longer working and the computer is shut down. However, its best to pair your UPS with a voltage stabilizer for additional safety.

8. Software reports

The software provided with the UPS is not always accurate with its reports. So don’t listen to it when it says your battery needs to be replaced even though you’ve never experienced low backup times. These faulty reports shouldn’t worry you because they may be trying to get you to purchase the company’s product more frequently (a common problem with print cartridges.) The software is good at its essential function of shutting down the PC properly and saving your work, but you may be the best option to determine whether its time to change the battery.

9. Usage tips and tricks

Do not overload the UPS by, for example, connecting external devices like the printer, scanner and the fax machine. NEVER plug a printer into the battery backup system. To optimize the charge of your batteries, you should discharge them completely at least once a month. And lastly, make sure the UPS is properly grounded all the time to prevent any electrical disasters.

10. Compare the prices

Standby UPSs are available in the range of 300VA to 500VA for office use, and up to 2KVA to 3KVA for workstations and large servers. Inexpensive standby UPSs ranging in price from $50 to $125 are used by millions of users of personal computers all over the world. Some of them include brands like Belkin, American Power Conversion (APC), Cyber Power, Data Shield, EFI, NCR, SAFE, Pacific Power, Sola and UP Sonic.

Conclusion

Remember, there are two kinds of UPS systems. The Standby Power System (SPS) and Online UPS System. If you are a home user, go for the relatively cheaper SPS. The price of an online UPS is three to five times that of a standby UPS with the same power rating. For servers, buy an online UPS (online means outgoing power is always drawn from the battery). Expect to pay between $150 and $1,000 for an online UPS. The higher the VA rating, the more you’ll pay. You might also want to consider buying one with advanced-battery features. These features include intelligent-battery management, battery-replacement indicator, and hot-swappable user-replaceable batteries.
UPS is the easiest way to protect your hardware and data. Many people think a surge protector suffices (an electrical device which includes a fuse which does not allow a power surge to harm sensitive devices such as computers), but actually they only offer limited protection against power spikes. For a better and more thorough protection, you need a UPS. It isn’t intended to power you through a blackout though. For that, you would need a generator. Rather, a UPS will let you save your work and power down safely.

The idea of moving a computer into the living room is not a new one.  Video-out, surround sound, and DVD drives make the PC a versatile multimedia component, and this did not go overlooked by tech savvy users.  Adventurous case modders turned old stereo equipment into computer cases, while manufacturers released a variety of colored enclosures to meet this emerging market segment. 

My first attempt at home theater PC was a simple black ATX case that was concealed inside my entertainment center.  While this setup worked, it was not the cleanest solution to the problem, and in the end it still looked like a PC in the entertainment center.  I had seen case mods that converted stereo equipment into PC enclosures, but for a guy with a full time job, family, and no Dremel skills, this was not an option.

Antec’s Overture Piano Black Quiet Media Case is part of the Lifestyles Series, and has been designed to integrate perfectly into a home theater system, providing PC enthusiasts with an off-the-shelf solution for that multimedia PC project.  Using a sleek black desktop design, the Overture combines Antec’s superb build quality, full-size ATX capability, and a noise reducing features, resulting in a PC enclosure that blends into the home theater system or living room.  The specs for this case read pretty much like any other ATX case on the market, but as you will see, the Overture is far from average.

Features:
TruePower 380Watt ATX12V power supply features a single-fan design for ultra-quiet operation.
Front mounted USB & IEEE1394 (FireWire) ports
Front Audio ports
7 Drive Bays:
- 2 x 5.25″ external drive bays
- 2 x 3.5″ external drive bays
- 3 x 3.5″ internal drive bays with rubber grommets to absorb hard drive vibrations
Motherboards: Standard ATX

You\’ve seen plexiglas windows on modified computer cases, right? They add a \”custom\” look to any computer. Many people assume that cutting a big hole in the side of their case is too tough of a job and may not be worth the time and effort. While it\’s not as simple as adding a stick of memory, it\’s not as hard as you may think. There are many different kits for sale on the internet that allow you to add a clean looking plexiglas window to the side of your computer case. This one, supplied by Coolerguys, retails for $22.95 and includes everything you will need, except for the tools.

Coolerguys claim that theirs is the best window kit available.  They state, \”each piece of acrylic is cut with a laser for a perfect fit every time. We use the best acrylic we can find. No hard gaskets to install. Just cut and bolt on with machined thumb screws.\”

Now, let\’s take a look at how this critter is installed!

How do you know your power supply is bad? Well, beyond the obvious
problem of not turning on at all, there are some things you can look
for. These can include overheating, periodic boot-up failures or
errors, parity errors, lots of noise, and even electrical shock when
the case or connections are touched.

If your power supply is showing any of these signs, it probably
needs to be replaced. Never attempt to repair one yourself. Always
take it to a technician. Or just buy a new one. Replacement
is probably the most economical choice.

Power supplies are rated by the wattage output. An old computer
will have a 70 watt power supply. Today, they go as high as 500 watts.
The average computer today uses 230 watt or 250 watt. If you are
buying a new power supply, buy one with this rating, and you will be
set to go with numerous attachments.

How They Work - The Basics

Your power supply converts the standard 120 volt power from your
wall into a form usable by your computer. In converts the AC current
from the wall into a DC current or 5 volts and 12 volts. It then
distributes this power to all the devices in your system. Usually, the
motherboard, adapter cards, and diskette drives get the 5 volt power,
while the disk motors and cooling fans get the 12 volt leads.

The power supply also gives the system the final go-ahead before it
boots. It sends an electric signal to the motherboard assuring that
the system has enough power to operate correctly.

The main fan of your power supply is very important. It cools the
power supply and keeps a constant and bearable temperature inside the
rest of the computer’s case. Obviously, the fan depends on a nice
supply of air to operate. It pulls air through the vent at the front
of the case, circulates it, and blows it out of the hole at the back
of the power supply. Therefore, it is best to keep the case on most of
the time while the PC is turned on to ensure a nice flow of air. Also,
make sure you have dust plates covering each hole on the back of the
computer that is not being used by an expansion card.

Form Factor - ATX

Baby AT power supplies are the most common. They are plain and
simple power supplies. The ATX form factor requires a special power
supply. This supply is much more advanced. It contains special
circuitry which allows software control of the power on signal. It
supplies a steady 5 volt power to the motherboard even when the rest
of the system is off, thus giving the system the ability to boot
itself through software. The fan on the ATX power supply is reversed.
This blows air into the case instead of out. The air blows right over
the CPU, eliminating the need to a CPU fan. It also pressurizes the
inside of the case, keeping it clean.

Connectors

When working with the power supply, you need to know about some of
the connectors. Most importantly if you are using a new case, you
might have to connect the supply to the power switch on the front of
the case. Some people have a hard time doing this, since there are
four wires, and four tabs, and finding which wires goes to what tab
can be difficult. So here I show you.

You will usually have four color-coded wires. Some cases provide a
fifth that is simply attached to the case for grounding. The wires are
color-coded as follows:

• The brown and blue wires are the feed wires from the 110V
  supply. They bring the full 110V to the switch. They are always
  hot when the power supply is plugged in, meaning ALWAYS HAVE THE
  POWER SUPPLY UNPLUGGED WHEN ATTACHING ITS CONNECTORS!
• The black and white wires carry the AC current from the switch
  to the power supply. These wires are only hot when the system is
  on, because the switch actually closes the circuit.
• If you have a green wire, sometimes with a stripe, it is a
  ground wire, and is attached to the case somewhere.

When connecting, place the blue and brown wires on the tabs that
are parallel and next to each other. Place the black and white wires
on the tabs that are angled and next to each other. I’ve heard you can
actually mix these up a bit without problems, but ALWAYS make sure the
black and brown are right next to each other, and the same with the
others.

The drive connectors are all about the same, except for size. In
response to some requests for a pin-out, here it is.