A PC emergency kit is basically nothing more than a shoebox of PC accessories and peripherals that exists for the sole reason of getting your PC back up and running when something on the box or laptop dies on you. And by "emergency" I don’t mean the all-out-disaster type but rather parts that will keep your box running until you get proper replacements.

Here’s a quick list of items to put together your kit. Everything listed below is inexpensive and readily available.

Roll-up keyboard

Most people hate typing on one of these, but their strength lies in the fact you can store one in a small box very easily. In a pinch, you’ll be glad you have it if your primary keyboard fails.

Note: These are typically not found online but are in just about every electronics store. Price is around $15 or less.

RF Wireless Mini-Mouse

This may sound expensive but it’s not as it’s only 7 bucks. You go with a mini so it fits better in the shoebox and you go wireless so you don’t have to mess around with wires on the back of you PC. It’s not a great mouse but gets the job done until you get a suitable replacement for your primary busted one.

Mini mouse pad

A mini mouse pad is one that’s drink-coaster-sized. Fits on any flat surface with limited space (like the top of a PC tower) easily and its small size makes it easy to store and stay out of the way.

Why bother having one? Ever spill even a tiny amount of water on a mouse pad? You know how long that takes to dry? Now you know why you should have a mini mouse pad.

"You shouldn’t have any liquids near your computer in the first place." Right, we all know that, and we all ignore it. Carry on.

"Well *I* don’t keep liquids near my computer." Right, and I’m sure you sit down at your computer in a hazmat suit whenever using it. Good for you. Whatever.

"LiveCD" Operating System on USB stick and CD

Obviously the OS you’re going to use here is a Linux distribution of your choice. I recommend a distro that fits on a CD such as Ubuntu or KNOPPIX.

CD is actually better to have than DVD for the reason if an optical drive starts to die on you, it will usually still read CDs even when it can’t read DVDs at all.

Burning the disc is easy, just download the ISO and use ImgBurn or other optical disc burning utility of your choice.

As for the USB stick, this is actually the preferred method of booting an emergency OS simply for the reason you can write data to it. I recommend using a stick of at least 8GB memory capacity, and you can write the bootable ISO of your Linux distribution easily using the freely available UNetbootin.

Why both media formats?

For convenience’s sake. Some computers boot easily from USB while others don’t. For the times when the stick doesn’t work, you have the disc at-the-ready.

PS/2-to-USB adapter and converter

The reason for having these is for the instances when a PC will not accept key commands from a USB-connected keyboard "until it’s too late" (OS starts loading before USB controller is active, disallowing you to hit a key to get into the BIOS).

"What’s the difference between and adapter and a converter?"

It’s the difference between passive and active. A passive PS/2-to-USB adapter will usually only operate a USB mouse but not a USB keyboard. An active PS/2-to-USB converter actually converts the signal because the converter has an integrated circuit in-built to it, allowing a keyboard’s signal to pass through properly.

Remember the following: If it’s a keyboard, you need a converter. If a mouse, you need an adapter. Both may look the same and connect the same, but it’s the circuit inside you can’t see that makes the difference.

When shopping for either, it’s easy to tell which from which just by specifically looking for "adapter" or "converter" whether in a retail store or shopping online.

USB Wi-Fi Adapter

Wireless cards can in some instances stop working, and usually do so with little to no warning. In this instance you need a USB Wi-Fi adapter. These things are itty-bitty and get the job done in fine style. The one pictured above is 10 bucks.

Notes and warnings

The single largest problem with USB Wi-Fi sticks is that a ton of them require Windows or Mac to even work – meaning many won’t work on Linux. For any stick of this type you intend to buy, always read the OS requirements first before making the purchase.

It is not recommended to run a USB Wi-Fi stick off a non-powered hub. Yes, it would work if you did decide to run one that way, but don’t be surprised if the adapter drops its signal a lot. The best way to run a USB Wi-Fi stick is direct-to-board, meaning a USB port right off the motherboard itself in back of the PC or one in-built to a laptop not off a wire.

Do not expect blazing-fast wireless network performance out of one of these. Wi-Fi through USB 2.0 is a little slower than direct-on-board wireless cards. I can’t say exactly how much slower because it depends on things like signal strength, existing wireless traffic around you other than your own wireless router, and so on. What I can say is that if you used one of these in an instance where your laptop’s wireless card died on you, wireless network speed won’t be as fast as the in-built laptop’s card was – but at least you can stay up and running on Wi-Fi and that’s the whole point.

Did I miss anything? What would you put in your own PC emergency kit?

Post a comment or two and let everyone know.

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