Wireless N was touted to be the Next Big Thing in Wi-Fi when first introduced, and, well.. it really hasn’t been. In order to make the most out of Wireless N, every device must be N-capable and be able to connect at the 5GHz level instead of the older 2.4GHz. If that’s not possible, N connectivity in many instances won’t serve you any better.
(Side note: One can only hope Wireless AC will cure this ill, but time will tell as that wireless tech is still a very new thing at the moment.)
When is G better than N?
In my experience, anything under 100 Mbps connectivity when connected with N isn’t even worth bothering with.
If for example you’re hovering between 60 and 80 Mbps, you’re really not going to notice any significant difference between G and N, and in fact N may be slower. Sure, the Mbps number is higher, but the connectivity is probably spotty at best which negates the higher connection rate.
If you’re able to get a solid 54 Mbps connection with Wireless G with “full bars”, more often than not your uploads and downloads will be faster because the connection is more stable.
On the other hand, if you have a solid 150 or 300Mbps connection on N, you’re getting proper N connectivity and shouldn’t change anything. However as said above, if you’re constantly dipping below 100 Mbps on N, consider switching back to G. You can fortunately do this without having to buy a new router where you can simply load up the administration program in the browser and set the wireless to “G only” or “B/G only”.
How do you see what your wireless connection speed is in Windows 7?
Do the following:
1. Right-click the “bars” icon in the tray and choose “Open Network and Sharing Center”
2. Single-left-click your wireless connection (most likely labeled “Wireless Network Connection”)
3. Your wireless speed will be listed on the next screen along with other information
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its great informative article….and have alots of information for intrestiong people who like to spent time on net and want to collect some knowledge from it..well i’m glad to see it..thanks for sharing
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Timely article. I’ll take advantage of that. :)
I just purchased a new router which is capable of N, but do have a few devices that only go up to G. However, the router can broadcast up to 4 different SSIDs. Do you know, generally speaking, can I have one G and one N and get the faster speed for those devices that support N?
Specifically speaking, it’s the ASUS DSL-N10.
The best way to answer this is “sort of”. A dual-band router that can do *both* 2.4GHz and 5GHz transmitting at the same time (usually indicated by 3 antennas) will accomplish what you’re looking for. The G devices connect at 2.4GHz as they always do, but you have to specifically instruct your N devices only to connect with 5GHz N and nothing else, and that’s where the pain-in-the-ass part comes in because it’s dependent on the connecting device whether it’s capable of doing that or not. If the device is “B/G/N take whatever is available first” all the time with no option for N-only, the device will usually default to G. Some advanced routers may allow to specify device connection default based on MAC address, but I’m not sure if that’s doable. This is the type of router I’m talking about. Dual-band and DD-WRT capable for the ultimate in control.
The other option is to run two routers on purpose with one configured G-only, the other configured N-only. Connecting device limitations are eliminated at that point because you simply instruct G devices to go to the G router and N devices to go to the N router. It’s also significantly cheaper (and usually easier) going this route compared to the dual-band method.
As soon as I get free time, I’ll know for sure with the new one. But I suppose you have a point, I could bridge the old router and get the same thing, worst case.
As follow up: you called it exactly right. In “mixed” mode it stuck with lowest common denominator, thus, I didn’t really have n. The router can broadcast mutliple SIDs, but that just serves as alternative authentication mechanisms, with very basic bandwidth (low or normal) and access (local, internet, or both) controls.
I ended up doing as you said, the second router is acting as the AP for g devices, and switched this new one to n only mode. Now I have n…sporadically, so far. It that holds, I’ll probably switch back to mixed just so I don’t have to run two routers.
The N is sporadic because the channels on both routers are too close to each other and the G is “kicking out” the N. Set both routers to manual-channel (meaning not automatic), put the N router on channel 1 and the G router on channel 11.
Thanks, but that wasn’t it. I had set the old to channel 3 and the new to 11 (as most folks here seem to use the default of 7), but I was getting at best 200 Mbps and at worse 60.
Well, after running that way for about a day, the new router is now completely dropping connections like crazy. I can’t get a connection for more than a few minutes. Methinks the new router is just junk.
That’s what I get for getting a $60 router.
Before you take that router back for return (which I wouldn’t blame you if you did), run inSSIDer to check for signal noise. I don’t know if there are any routers around you other than yours, but inSSIDer is a good way to check for that. You’ll see easily if any other routers are “arguing” with yours by being on the same channel(s) or have an overpowering signal, etc.
I have the “Dark Knight” router and it is a beast except when using wireless G. It doesn’t seem to handle it very well. I have a few wireless G and wireless N stuff in the house and the main problem child is the Wii game console. It sometimes won’t connect to it and if I dip into the logs there are a bunch of “DHCPREQUEST” and DHCPACK” calls logged to that particular device even if it’s connected. I haven’t tried to troubleshoot it yet but I will end up using a WRT54GL as an AP for G devices. I just don’t think it can handle a mixed network well. Wireless N is connecting good and is strong. The router is a little pricey @ around $180 but it has a ton of features if you like to tweak. The firmware is a little young and the UI is a little quirky on some things but overall I like it.
Hi people-forgive me for appearing so rude as to not touch base.my ISPoffer the wieless option-I
was unable to connect.Finally we worked through- its not wireless-but it is back in the ring.
SI I a way behind–also sortakind oof medical circus;-tests,doctors- the support is great(I had some
falls n the apartment-ty wierd-I hil 111 po-lice two paramedics hauled me into the vertical axis
(Couldn’t lify own body weight…fell out of the bus-now have to attend clinc-gotts get up and catch up
1
So excuse my absence-people saying ‘”buy a new computer-But I need to get over the layout costs and load up content,I have a heap of deep meaningful stuff- mirth elegance and creatiivity
make a life worth while–. In the end the ISP dude and I connected to net with wire,
Irony:right outside the pad- have teams digging and laying fibre optics
Weekend to catch the challenge-a collorative designer would have work setting the content
Nuff said bettar get the wriitten up and see
Thanks Ric and David– and all those I still have pleasure to meet.
Down here its cold volcanoes and snow9—–more inthe Southern Island
than further North_;autumn leaves,red and gold..
Best Wishes to all
Peace be in our time
talksoon.
Sincerely
Wilton Rodger
However, the router can broadcast up to 4 different SS IDs. Do you know, generally speaking,