It’s a safe assumption that the vast majority of computer users today use LCD monitors. It is in fact a very reliable technology and it’s not often that you hear of one breaking. But being that it’s an electronic device, yes it will eventually fail.
How long does it take before an LCD fails completely?
Usually about 5 to 7 years.
What is the first thing to "go" on an LCD monitor?
With a free-standing LCD (i.e. one attached to regular desktop computer), the backlight is usually the first thing to break. With a laptop a whole host of other things can go awry. More on that in a moment. When a backlight fails, the picture will get extremely dim. It will still work but be almost unreadable.
Is it worth it to repair an LCD monitor?
Never. The cost of repairing an LCD monitor will usually cost more than replacing it outright.
Common issues with LCD monitors
Solid horizontal and/or vertical lines
One day you will turn on the monitor and these brightly colored lines will appear with no way to get rid of them. This is a hardware fault and there is no fix for this. Replace the monitor.
Monitor takes a while to "warm up" after starting it
You turn the monitor on and it takes a minute or two to reach full brightness. This is a backlight issue. You can still use the monitor normally until the backlight breaks (which it will eventually).
Monitor flickers on and off randomly
This is laptop-specific. The LCD ribbon connector cable is damaged from normal use of opening and closing the lid over time. This can be repaired. The monitor does not need replacement, but the ribbon connector cable does.
If you’re brave enough you can order this part from the OEM manufacturer and replace it yourself. It it normally located under the left-side hinge. It is not easy, but certainly cheaper than replacing the entire display.
Suggested course of action is to locate an authorized computer repair center and have them replace the ribbon connector. It will cost anywhere from $60 to $150, labor included. This may sound expensive but it’s still cheaper than replacing the monitor itself which will cost a whole lot more.
Corners or one side of monitor appears dimmer than the other
Again this is a backlight issue. There is no fix. Deal with it or replace the monitor.
Everything "goes green" or "goes pink" or "goes red"
For laptops, again this is the ribbon connector cable. Replace it. For desktops, replace the monitor cable which may or may not fix the problem.
"Wild patterns" appear for no reason
It will look something like this:
No fix for this. Monitor is busted. Replace it.
What about automatic adjust. I don’t press the automatic adjust button but sometime my monitor start adjusting itself. Adjusting more then 20 times, and then he will stop. Passed more then 1 year, and i still can find some solution about it. It’s Samsung SyncMaster 720N.
Manufacturer specific.
http://www.fixya.com/support/t262186-samsung_731n_auto_adjustment
Nice keyboard in the photo. Looks like the original for the IBM 5150 PC. You could get an 8 bit full length VGA card for those beasts towards end of life.. which means you could plug an LCD display into an 8088 based rig. That description for the failing ribbon cable between the LCD and the laptop innards is similar to a problem I had with a Thinkpad T41.. but it required a motherboard replacement. Too much flex of the MB planar results in marginal connection between the ATI chipset sub assembly and the motherboard planar.
That keyboard is probably an IBM Model M (http://www.clickykeyboards.com). Some gamers prefer them because they’re extremely responsive.
I would use one myself but it doesn’t have a Win-key. And I totally admit I use that key all the time.
I’ve got a model M and the function keys are along the top, not on the left hand side. Looks like about the same era though.
My LCD had been faithful for 4 1/2 years but then when first turning on my background would come up but in a split second it would fade to white…sometimes I could get it to stay on, so I decided to leave it on constantly. After a week the picture went black. When I turn it on I have a quick flash of light then it’s no picture. It has built in speakers and they seem to work. Are you able to tell me what’s wrong?!
I recently had a problem on my laptop where the bottom half of the screen was brighter than the top half. I opened the bezel and found no obvious problems. Out of something just to try before I saw about getting it repaired, I loosened one of the four screwes that secure the panel into the metal bezel frame and the problem went away. Looks like the frame was putting pressure on the LCD and causing the problem.
With regard to getting a ribbon cable changed as suggested,I wouldn’t bother because you can buy a new monitor fairly cheap no matter what the repair. Also not many electronic shops bother repairing them.
I’m hoping you can help me here. My lcd died tonight. It’s only about 14 months old and the screen just dimmed like it was going into sleep mode. Power stayed on, and backlights look to be on. Just no image. No OSD even. The monitor does recognize whether or not it’s connected to a computer. I tried both the VGA and DVI inputs with the same results.
Thanks!
Try connecting monitor to another computer first to rule out video card issue. If the monitor doesn’t show a picture on another computer, either the connector cable is shot or there is something internal within the monitor where the video signal is not being transferred to the screen.
I’ve tried both of those and still no image. Are there any parts that would be in the video signal path that typically fail? I’ve mostly only heard of power supplies, inverters, and backlights going out. This seems like it’s more serious.
My View Sonic VX910 flat panel display started coming on for about a second then the screen goes off. The power button stays on as usual. I’ve tried it on another computer and get the same results. I replaced two capcitors on the power supply board but still the same thing happpens. I haven’t been able to find a schematic or parts list so I’m still looking for answers.
Y’all might consider that there are sources for the Cold Cathode Flourescent Lights (very thin and delicate) and the inverters that drive them to fit the majority of laptop LCD screens. Look around online, I opinion neither are expensive. Also take a look at Morris Rosenthal’s http://www.daileyint.com/hmdpc/repair.htm Win/lose/draw, you may discover why things went bad. Good Luck.
actually I believe the last problem might be fixed by replacing the input board (which is an easy task to do, but not an easy thing to find)
John Micknal: If the caps are bad for long enough, the lack of electrolitic forumula will cause more voltage to pass to the components in the circut with the caps, resulting in those being damaged.
Oh yeah, the same thing happened to my mothers Viewsonic. I opened it up and what brand did I see on the inside? Haans-Star. Otherwise known as Haans*G, who tends to use crap parts (esp caps)
I just bought HP 1740 LCD flat screen monitor off from ebay. I used it less than 2 hours now it doesn’t power up. I have changed power cords. Any ideas?
Darlene, look to see if the LED next to the power button is staying green or does it go to amber. If it stays green then your backlight PCB is the problem. I have a few of the same model and when I find a solution I will post the fix.
I disagree with the statement taht says it is not worth repairing these monitors. I have repaired many. The average repair has never exceeded $50.00 to the customer. The monitor is considered refurbished, and is saved from the landfill.
Dan, What is the most common problem? Are you doing component level repair or board swap? Does recapping the power board seem to fix most backlight failures or are you replacing the step up xfmrs?
Defective capacitors are common, soldering issues are next, due to heat. I will usually test and replace all electrolytics, then go over the boards and resolder everything.
Thanks for reassuring my initial thoughts. I have 25 or better HP 1740’s that I can not find schematics for, but fortunately I have a working one for comparison. These all power on and initially and show with the back light then either flicker or just go dark yet the monitor still still indicates a valid signal. I did not notice swollen caps but it wouldnt be the first bad cap that doesnt show visible expiration. as soon as I get spares I will post the results.
If you were located in central Ontario, I would be glad to try and revive as many of those HP’s as possible…
I am working on a Westinghouse 19 inch flat screen lcd there were two capacitors that were questionable as the tops were sticking up not like the rest of them which were flat, I replaced all of them with the correct values, still not getting no voltage to the bulbs.
Any other ideas on what to check????
Before changing the capacitors the light on the side of monitor would stay green as long as video was going to it, but no light to the display, this monitor is not two years old.
Would appreciate any help or suggestions—-
Hi,
I have a compaq presario v5000. My lcd screen recently started giving me problems. 1/3rd of my LCD screen went black. My laptop readjusted the screen side to the 2/3rd portion and I can see the entire desktop. However, the top 3 inches of the screen are displayed on the bottom 3 inches as well.
I cant figure out what the problem is. Is it dead pixels ? But does the computer readjusts itself to a new screen size ?
Please advice. I can also mail you a picture of my lcd display if you provide me your email.
Thanks.
Hi all,
I’m an old electronics tech from the navy and know that everything we use is repairable. The only thing lacking for me is the whereabouts of block diagrams and schematics. Are there any available? My Neovo is experiencing a vertical line problem. I can rap the side and get it to stop displaying these random lines. Sometimes the screen is full of them other times it is only in small rows. My first task will be to open the case and see if there are any obvious problems. The next thing to do will be to resolder the components that are subject to heat. I might use a plastic wand or a toothpick and tap around on different components until I find the one that is causing the problem.
Might get lucky here finding the schematic for Neovo: http://www.eserviceinfo.com/equipment_mfg/Neovo_3.html
Had A Red Monitor Thanks You It’s Now Gone
Many Thanks
I have a new flat screen monitor. When using the VGA connection to the PC, the desktop has ghosty wavy lines. I replaced the cable with a DVI cable trying to eliminate the lines and increase the quality of the picture. The PC has DVI-I output, the monitor has DVI-D input. The cable is DVI-D to DVI-D. When selecting the DVI input on the monitor menu, the screen goes black.
I can find no information that allows selecting either VGA or DVI output from the graphics card, so must assume they are both hot.
What can be wrong?
Thanks,
KC
FWIW, I got it to work. Had to set the computer up for shutdown, with the final mouse click waiting. Set the input to DVI in the monitor’s menu, then clicked the mouse. PC shut down, then I detached the VGA from the video card. That seems to have been the secret, along with doing a cold boot. The monitor found the input, and it works now.
Thanks anyway!
KC