The single largest advantage of building is the ability to transfer parts from build to build. What this means is that when I upgrade, I don’t have to build a complete computer each time. And this is where the true savings come in when you build PCs.
For example, I don’t have to buy a new case, nor do I have to buy a new optical drive. I also don’t need new audio speakers, mouse, keyboard or monitor. In my current setup I could also transfer over my video card as well.
When you add these things up it shaves off a lot of cash you would otherwise have to spend.
Many PCMech readers have built PCs before, but if you’re someone who hasn’t yet, I can say without question that your most expensive build will probably be the first one. And this is because you have nothing to transfer from a previous build. Everything must be bought new and yes, it can get costly – but only for the first time around.
What you can do is think of the future when building your first box so it will cost less when you upgrade later. The checklist is short and easy to remember.
Future-use things to consider when PC building
Computer Case
Your case should be a full-sized tower. The reason is so you can use standard ATX or MicroATX motherboards. This gives you more choice of what motherboard you want to use now and in the future.
The case you buy should be above average. You want something built well that will withstand the test of time. Being that your intent is to use the same case over and over, build quality matters.
Motherboard
Use a motherboard that supports several different types of processors. The better ones support at least four. This Intel motherboard for example does just that. For now maybe you want a Core 2 Duo processor but later on want to upgrade to a Quad-core. Using a motherboard that supports multiple CPU types will save you cash because you don’t have to buy another board when ready to upgrade.
Also bear in mind the new board you buy should support (at the time of this writing) a minimum of 8GB of RAM which the one linked above does. If you buy a new board that only supports 4GB, that’s your limit – and that’s not good. 8GB should stay current for at least 5 years, and you can incrementally update as needed.
Optical Drive
This is something you don’t have to put a ton of cash into because more people are moving away from the optical format in favor of flash-based media.
Concerning this particular component, the key is to avoid things you don’t need that add extra cost, such as:
- LightScribe – This is more for "cool factor" than anything else. You’re better off just labeling your discs with a Sharpie marker. It’s cheaper and does the same job. True, it doesn’t look as professional, but nobody cares.
- Super fast DVD burning – Not necessary. Why? Because getting blank media that supports the higher speeds costs more and probably isn’t available on the shelf where you buy discs. Most of the time the blank media you buy will be 12x max write speed for DVD and 30x max for CD, so the fact your drive can burn faster means nothing unless you’re willing to custom order blank discs that support it – which you probably won’t.
- Blu-Ray compatible – Again, not necessary. The only people truly interested in this format are those who have Blu-ray players for their television. And yes, you will get a big-big 25GB of storage on one of these BD-R discs, but, each disc at present costs $5 – and that doesn’t include shipping. You’re better off using flash-based media, if only for the fact that write/rewrite is much easier and faster compared to optical.
Input Devices (Keyboard and Mouse)
Concerning the mouse, make sure it connects via USB. With wireless, go for RF and not Bluetooth. For example, a really kick-ass wireless mouse is the Logitech G7. It’s got a ridiculous price tag (but worth it to some) and is USB/RF-wireless based. And don’t worry, there are plenty of RF-wireless USB mice that are much lower in price, like this one.
Note that there’s nothing bad or wrong about Bluetooth wireless, but you get more choice with RF. A lot more.
Concerning the keyboard, you want something that will stand the test of time like your computer case. There are many keyboard makes to choose from, but typically the best for long-term use are made by Microsoft and Logitech. Sure, other keyboards have lots of whiz-bang features on it, but what matters most is comfort and longevity.
With Microsoft and Logitech it’s the simple things that make them better, such as not having the lettering literally wear off your keys in less than six months.
Of course, neither beat the best computer keyboard of all time, the IBM Model M. But that takes a little bit of doing (i.e. a USB converter) to make the older ones work. And lets not forget they’re frickin’ loud. A resounding CLICK-CLACK happens every time you press a key on one of those. But it’s a good sound. At least I think so. 
Audio speakers
The only rule to follow here is to use an audio speaker setup that is not overly dependent on software. And what I mean by that is you should not buy speakers that require software just to hear sound come out of them.
Whatever you buy should work like this: Open the box, take the speakers out, plug the AC adapter into the wall, plug in the audio cable to the sound card, done.
Software that controls the sound card is fine (and necessary). Software that’s required just to make the speakers work is bad.
If you want an example of bad, Creative is notorious for having speaker setups that are too "attached" to software, so to speak. And without their proprietary software installed, the speakers either sound like crap or not work at all. Not good.
Final notes
Many people make the mistake of building a PC that only has "right-now" tech in it, meaning the end build will not stay current for more than 2 years at the most.
For example, let’s say you bought a brand new motherboard today but it can only use a Core 2 Duo processor as the fastest it will support. That’s a mistake. Yes, the Core 2 right now is fast – but it won’t be 2 years from now and you’ll be forced to buy another motherboard later when the time comes. What you should have done is bought a board that can support Core 2 or Quad-core. When the Core 2 becomes too slow, it’s not a problem because you can upgrade to a Quad-core and get another 2 or 3 years out of the same motherboard, thereby saving you money.
When building your first (or next) computer box, consider the future. Buying the right stuff the first time and spending a little extra means savings for the long-term.
True, you can save some money moving parts from your old to new computer project.
I’ve always felt the big benefit to rolling your own PC is you are not buying a machine off the rack. You decide what should be inside, what compromises, if any, should be made in what areas, and what unique special needs must be addressed, rather than accept the mass marketed box. I like a beefy but quiet case that will last for a decade. I’m a ham radio operator and most of my radios can be computer controlled so I need more than the average amount of USB ports and have gear that still uses serial ports. It also has to be resistant to RF and not produce RF noise on my radios. It has to be powerful enough and contain the hardware needed for digital video and photo editing as well as audio editing. It also has to be unobtrusive so my wife doesn’t take notice that I’m spending money on gear again. It also has to be easy to swap stuff in and out of the case, able to tolerate thunderstorms and power hits.
cool ideas but still you forgot about cpu and memory. but was a great beginners article!
Rich was listing the parts that you can swap over from build to build cause they wont change too much, RAM and CPU change at quite a high rate, which is why you would upgrade them when things started to get a little too slow, keeping the mobo/case/etc
Power Supply: You can invest heavily in a power supply as they change very rarely. You failed to mention cooling: you can invest heavily in cooling. I felt you put too much weight upon motherboard. In my experience the cpu and motherboard go hand-in-hand: it’s been unusual that I change cpu without changing mobo; and although i can often delay upgrading the RAM for while, I typically choose not to. Storage becomes the least of my worries; RAID support being only concern there. In fact, when you build you own and reuse it for a while you soon discover that CPU/Mobo/RAM/Video are the only items still steadily changing and a “rebuild” is more often about your virtual OS than your physical hardware.
Another big advantage is your computer is not this mysterious box that only people with special knowledge understand. When you build it yourself, fixing it is not a big deal.
Completely true! Building my own 8 years ago is what got me started in the computer industry. The whole mystery to the computer is dissolved when you are having to assemble each individual part to the computer. I wish it would become standard practice for schools to develop this idea for every one of their students so that they wouldnt be as intimidated or scared when it comes to their systems.