$700 Gaming Rig - XP

[Fo1k-E]

'Ello all! I've posted here once before asking for a build. You guys did an awesome job, but a little bit has changed - I didn't go through with the build. But now, I have $700, and I'm going for a custom build.

I was thinking of going with iBUYPOWER.com for a while, but after hearing that they basically put their PCs together w/the accuracy of chimps, I decided not. Hearing stories of people getting 512Mb instead of 2GB, people getting crappy 7600s instead of a 7900. x_X Scared me...

Well... I come to all of you with some suggestions on a $700 build.

My specifications: Windows XP, 7900 GPU, fairly decent CPU, and good enough RAM. :o Probably 1GB for now, and just expand later.
7900GS - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130056


Earlier I heard someone say that their strategy is to find a mobo. first, and then find the parts after. Well, I kind of want to try that.

Anyone know of a good mobo. for a reasonable price that can handle the parts I'm suggesting, with expandability to the series 8 cards?

So, basically - the ONLY thing I've really decided on is Windows XP, and the 7900GS. /Shame.

[Alaron]

Try this list:

Asus P5L-MX Motherboard
E6420 Core 2 Duo
2GB DDR2-667 (Very inexpensive now, so go big)
eVGA 7900GS
Corsair 520HX PSU
Seagate 320GB SATA Hard Drive
LiteOn DVDRW
Case of your preference.

[Fo1k-E]

Try this list:

Asus P5L-MX Motherboard
E6420 Core 2 Duo
2GB DDR2-667 (Very inexpensive now, so go big)
eVGA 7900GS
Corsair 520HX PSU
Seagate 320GB SATA Hard Drive
LiteOn DVDRW
Case of your preference.

Thanks man, looking at the costs right now, and adding some changes. :)

REALLY APPRECIATE THE QUICK RESPONSE! :)

[Fo1k-E]

LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 8X DVD-R DL 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM IDE Burner with LightScribe Technology - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16827106045)

RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WBP Black SECC STEEL ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 500W Power Supply - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811156062)

EVGA 256-P2-N624-AR GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 KO Video Card - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130056)

Kingston 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820134046)

ASUS P5L-MX LGA 775 Intel 945G Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813131041)

Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 Conroe 2.13GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819115016)

Microsoft Windows XP Home With SP2B 1 Pack - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16832116056)

Final cost: $762.93

^ Think this be alright for someone with NO building experience? D:

Also... HARD DRIVE: ...I'm not much of a space user, and I plan to get a RAPTOR later. So, for now... a smaller drive will do. ;)

Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600JS 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16822144415)

[Alaron]

That's a faily good list, I have a couple suggestions.

The most important change to make is the power supply. Raidmax units are not high quality. The Corsair unit I suggested will give you plenty of headroom for future upgrades.

Swap that DVD Burner for a SATA instead of IDE.

Stick with Corsair Memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820145098 Kingston's quality is slipping and Corsair is cheaper. :)

[whubbard]

Does he really need the headroom of the 520W corsair?

I would think this would do just fine:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817189014
this should also be fine:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817104954

[kamikazi_tom]

I'd have to agree with whub. My friend just purchased one of those corsair units and it performs just the same as my Antec SmartPower 500w. Antec has never steered me wrong. Just make sure you don't get one of the old school Ultra X-Connect PSU's with the one 35A rail. Man that thing exploded! Took my beautiful mobo and 7900gt with it =[

Good luck with your build!

[Fo1k-E]

Hmmm... well, I've gone with the Corsair memory, and selected the 500W PSU that whubbard suggested, and now am around $40 over the price limit, and need a case. :-/ Though, $40 extra is acceptable, finding a suitable case and keeping it reasonable is a wee bit difficult.

What would you guys sacrifice? RAM, or CPU? 'Cause that's what I'm thinking of the only two thing I can scratch a bit off.

BUT! There are 2 $20 mail-in rebates. I guess those would help. :P

P.S. Thanks, Tom! :D

EDIT: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119068

^ Think that's an alright case on a budget? :P

[Mr.Ferrari]

You can downgrade to the E6320.

And check out the Coolermaster Centurion 5, it was $35 after rebate.

[whubbard]

The case Ferrari suggested will do just fine for you.

and yes you can downgrade to the E6320, but if I were you i would hold out will I could spend the extra $20 and get the E6420. But if you want it NOW (like i always do), go ahead and downgrade, it wont be that bad.

The MIRs will help ($40!)...but they will take a good 10-12 weeks usually. :(

[Fo1k-E]

You can downgrade to the E6320.

And check out the Coolermaster Centurion 5, it was $35 after rebate.

Thanks, mate. :) Did both. :D

and... I downgraded to the 450W.

----------------

Well, I guess it's not that bad.

OVERVIEW: $700 Gaming Rig

LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD Burner with LightScribe - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16827106072)

COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Black Aluminum Bezel, SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811119068)

Western Digital Caviar SE WD1600JS 160GB 7200 RPM 8MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16822144415)

EVGA 256-P2-N624-AR GeForce 7900GS 256MB 256-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 KO Video Card - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130056)

FSP Group (Fortron Source) AX450-PN, 12cm FAN, version 2.2, 2 SATA, PCI Express, 450W Power Supply - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817104954)

CORSAIR ValueSelect 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820145098)

ASUS P5L-MX LGA 775 Intel 945G Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813131041)

Intel Core 2 Duo E6320 Conroe 1.86GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819115015)

Microsoft Windows XP Home With SP2B 1 Pack - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16832116056)

OVERALL COST: $761.42

[whubbard]

Almost perfect :)

You should get the SATA burner, not the IDE one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827106072

[Fo1k-E]

My bad. :P - Added.

EDIT: So, hmmm... I could wait a bit longer, get a few extra bucks, and get this thing here and built. :) Now, second part of my journey - I must ask: "Is it hard to build a PC?" ;) I've always got scared hearing stories about burning up a processor, or shorting out a mobo. by touching something on it to the case... small, and DANGEROUS stuff like that. <.<

[whubbard]

nope.

I suggest you check out the PC mech book. Its not needed...I mean the stuff pretty much just fits together, but it always nice to have a source telling you that your doing it right. But, no, its not hard.

p.s.
Yes...you should be grounded when building the PC.

[Mr.Ferrari]

Heck if you want to save 8 bucks, go for this unit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103024) same exact supply as the FSP450W. Sparkle and FSP are the same thing. They were in the server market until FSP took over.

[Fo1k-E]

Heck if you want to save 8 bucks, go for this unit (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817103024) same exact supply as the FSP450W. Sparkle and FSP are the same thing. They were in the server market until FSP took over.

Oooh... thanks, Ferrari! :D

[Fo1k-E]

A question: What do you think is that max capability of my PC to play w/out lag? Using like games currently that are out right now. Do you think this build could say play HL2, or Oblivion?

[Mr.Ferrari]

HL2 easy, oblivion, you might have sacrifice maximum eye candy. It depends on what resolutions you plan to run at.

[Fo1k-E]

I'll be running 1024x768 <--- Old CRT monitor. ;) That may be the next thing I upgrade.

[Mr.Ferrari]

Yeah you should have no problems running with a high amount of eye candy at that resolution.

[Fo1k-E]

Yeah you should have no problems running with a high amount of eye candy at that resolution.

Well... I guess I'm pretty set for the parts I'll be ordering!

Thank you: Mr. Ferrari, Whubbard, Alaron, and Tom! :)

Next chapter: Building. x_X That should be confusing when opening NewEgg's treasure box. :O

[Fo1k-E]

I was wondering. With this HDD having WIndows XP already installed... is it possible to just move with it from this PC, to the new one?

[Cricket]

I was wondering. With this HDD having WIndows XP already installed... is it possible to just move with it from this PC, to the new one?What kind of computer is that HDD coming out of? Home built or name brand?

:) Cricket

[Fo1k-E]

What kind of computer is that HDD coming out of? Home built or name brand?

:) Cricket

*Starts talking out of pure embarrassment for even buying from this brand* Name brand: eMachines ._.

:(

[Mr.Ferrari]

They are tied to the original computers BIOS, using it on anything else besides that board will give you a blue screen.

[Cricket]

I'd have to agree with whub. My friend just purchased one of those corsair units and it performs just the same as my Antec SmartPower 500w. Antec has never steered me wrong.Sure, they both power their respective computers okay but you can't really compare a Antec SmartPower with a Corsair and say they're the same...they're not. The quality difference between the two is like comparing a Kia to a Lexus. And the Antec SmartPower PSUs have a very checkered past (which is why I prefer not to use Antec power supplies in my own computers...I prefer Fortron Source or Sparkle Power).Name brand: eMachines.You have to buy a new copy of Windows.

:) Cricket

[Fo1k-E]

Awww... okay. :P So, besides just the OS: Is there anything I could take form the PC? Like say: The drive? It's not TOO bad for right now. :P DvD+/-RW 16x Double Layer MultiFormat DvDRW.

Just trying to cut the cost as much as possible. :P

Also: It uses DDR - 2700 RAM - I have a 1GB stick, think it's worth salvaging?

[Freakitchen]

You should be able to re-use that optical drive. That's pretty much the only component that I'd suggest re-using. Since you're buying a 945 chipset board, an old IDE hard drive will work in the new system, but why bother if you're purchasing a new, large drive?

You can't use your old RAM - new systems require DDR2, which is completely different to DDR.

[Fo1k-E]

You should be able to re-use that optical drive. That's pretty much the only component that I'd suggest re-using. Since you're buying a 945 chipset board, an old IDE hard drive will work in the new system, but why bother if you're purchasing a new, large drive?

You can't use your old RAM - new systems require DDR2, which is completely different to DDR.

Okay, thanks, man!

So, next question that just developed:

When I get all this stuff from NewEgg soon(:)), do I just take out the motherboard box first and just put everything onto the motherboard right there(out of the case)?

Like, open box: take everything off of the mobo., and then take out the CPU, and put the CPU in first. Then(seeing the heatsink comes with I guess a thermal pad), take off the piece of plastic covering the thermal pad, then set it on top of the CPU, and screw it in, or clip it in, however it's equipped.

Then after that - I hear to put in the RAM while the mobo. is still outside of the case.

After equipping the RAM + CPU + Heatsink for the CPU, then put it in the case, then put in the PSU to the case, screw it in, and then hook it up, and then put in the video card, and then the hard drive, and then the optical drive?

[Cricket]

So, next question that just developed:

When I get all this stuff from NewEgg soon(:)), do I just take out the motherboard box first and just put everything onto the motherboard right there(out of the case)?

Like, open box: take everything off of the mobo., and then take out the CPU, and put the CPU in first. Then(seeing the heatsink comes with I guess a thermal pad), take off the piece of plastic covering the thermal pad, then set it on top of the CPU, and screw it in, or clip it in, however it's equipped.

Then after that - I hear to put in the RAM while the mobo. is still outside of the case.

After equipping the RAM + CPU + Heatsink for the CPU, then put it in the case, then put in the PSU to the case, screw it in, and then hook it up, and then put in the video card, and then the hard drive, and then the optical drive?Before you install everything into the case you want to be sure the core components work okay. You install the CPU, CPU heatsink, video card, RAM, power supply, PC case speaker, keyboard and monitor together out of the case and use a small screwdriver to jump start the system. See this thread. (http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=12753)

If the core components start up and you get an image on the monitor then you know they're okay and you can then start to put things into the case. See this for more help. (http://www.mechbgon.com/build/index.html)

:) Cricket

[Fo1k-E]

Wow! That was quick! Haha. Well, thanks guys, I guess that's all until my parts get here! ^-^

[Fo1k-E]

Okay, final build: ...Slightly changed - feedback would be nice. :)

$49.99 Case: COOLER MASTER Centurion 5 CAC-T05-UW Black Aluminum Bezel, SECC ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16811119068)

$49.99 Power Supply: SPARKLE ATX-450PN ATX12V 2.2 450W Power Supply - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16817103024)

$76.99 Motherboard: ASUS P5L-MX LGA 775 Intel 945G Micro ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16813131041)

$186.00 Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E6420 Conroe 2.13GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80557E6420 - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16819115016)

$74.99 RAM: CORSAIR ValueSelect 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Desktop Memory Model VS2GBKIT667D2 - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16820145098)

$149.99 Video Card: EVGA 256-P2-N624-AR GeForce 7900GS 256MB GDDR3 PCI Express x16 KO Video Card - Retail (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16814130056)

$41.99 Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar SE WD800JD 80GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16822135106)

$89.99 Operating System: Microsoft Windows XP Home With SP2B 1 Pack - OEM (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?item=N82E16832116056)
--------------------------------------------------------

Well, there's the final build with my little edits.

Changes: Removed the optical drive seeing that I'll be salvaging that from my old PC, and I've also downgraded the Hard Drive for right now just to get the base program onto, and later I will add a big drive for games and music. I have also upgraded the processor back to the E6420.
--------------------------------------------------------

Questions:

1.) I've heard about 64 bit, and 32 bit operating systems. What's the difference? I know... I should probably be asking this in a different thread, but ....didn't care to make another, or search around. :(

2.) For the OEM on the hard drive and the Windows XP - will this cause risks such as damage, or broken products? Is it dangerous to order Windows XP OEM? :eek: I've heard that some of the Windows XP disks don't work, and that scares me because ...do you just then have to buy another if it doesn't work? :confused:

3.) I've heard that to short yourself out in place of a static bracelet you could use a metal from an old telephone cord wire: Is that true? Because, I don't really want to buy a static bracelet. :P

[Mr.Ferrari]

If you can salvage ~$10 more, you can get a faster drive, with a longer warranty, and twice the storage space. Seagate 7200.10 160gb (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148230)

1. 64-bit OS can reconize more then 3gb of ram and will perform better in a program that is coded for 64-bit, such mainstream programs are rare and usually do not appeal to the average PC user.

2. XP OEM is the same thing as XP retail, only difference is you dont get a fancy box, and you dont get microsoft phone support, not something you probably need anyways. Half the price. It will run fine.

3. Just touch the metal part of your case every few moments, that'll ground you enough. If your really worried, dont work on carpet.

[Fo1k-E]

If you can salvage ~$10 more, you can get a faster drive, with a longer warranty, and twice the storage space. Seagate 7200.10 160gb (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148230)

1. 64-bit OS can reconize more then 3gb of ram and will perform better in a program that is coded for 64-bit, such mainstream programs are rare and usually do not appeal to the average PC user.

2. XP OEM is the same thing as XP retail, only difference is you dont get a fancy box, and you dont get microsoft phone support, not something you probably need anyways. Half the price. It will run fine.

3. Just touch the metal part of your case every few moments, that'll ground you enough. If your really worried, dont work on carpet.

<3!

Thank you, mate! :) You're very helpful! Yeah, I'm very worried... this being my first build and all. :X

Also, I took that suggestion, and upgraded to that as my hard drive. Thanks, again! :D Twice the space + other benefits for only around $10 is great.

So, I guess this will be the future budget gaming PC. :)

[Fo1k-E]

Anyone suggest another cheap, good-enough-to-power-my-rig and trust PSU? The 450w went out of stock. ._.

[Mr.Ferrari]

http://directron.com/ax450pn.html

And yes, they are a quality reseller.

[Fo1k-E]

Thanks, Ferrari - but I went with the FORTRON 450w PSU - I've ordered all the parts, and should be here by the 28th or 29th. Latest by July 1st. :D

So... you can count on me coming here and asking how to do what, and when.