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#1 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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Installing Windows
Last month I decided to build a new computer. I have all the components here at my desk and assembled. I've been trying to set this stupid thing up for several weeks now, and I can't manage it. Everything goes well until I try to install windows. I have formatted the hard drive. However, after formatting the drive things go badly. I try to install windows and it starts copying and eventually a message will pop up saying "Setup cannot copy the file: cinemst2.sys" (the current one it's stuck on). It gives me the option to Retry (which results in the same thing), skip the file, or quit setup. If I skip the file, it will continue along and then doe the same thing. If I keep skipping files then it eventually gets a fatal error and I need to reboot.
The installation CD (Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005) doesn't appear to be scratched and I can explore it on my laptop. But I can't imagine what else it could be besides the CD drive, which appears to be working because it goes quite happily until it can't copy the file. I initially thought it was the HD, but I just got a replacement and it's doing the same thing... Help! |
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#2 |
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Member (9 bit)
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 306
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Is it a new copy of windows or a re-install disc?
__________________
Desktop: AMD Phenom II 975 - XIGMATEK HDT-S1283 - Asus M3A78-T - 8 GB (4 x 2 GB) Corsair 800 XMS2 - Sapphire HD 3650 - Seagate 500GB 7200.11 - WD SE16 250GB - Liteon Opticals - Hauppauge WinTV-PVR-150 MCE - Corsair VX550W PSU - Windows 7 Home |
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#3 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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It's a new (genuine) disc for installation.
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#4 |
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Member (4 bit)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 15
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hpw to installi a Window
first Framing In The Rough Opening if needed: The rough opening of the window is the space in which your window will be placed and anchored and is slightly larger than the actual size of the window. Space is allowed for shims, casing, and insulation. Rough opening size is determined by the manufacturer of the window. Look for the size of the rough opening in your product info sheet. The rough opening is composed of 2x6’s (or 2x4’s if your wall is made with 2x4’s) constructed to the shape of the window. A header will complete the top of the rough opening. A header is composed of either two 2x4’s or 2x6’s on their side with wood spacers between them to compensate for the width of the wall. (Plywood with 2x4 spacers may also be used) The purpose of the header is to support the weight of the building so the window will not crack or bow. It is very important to make sure the sill edge is level and to measure both diagonals. This will ensure a square rough opening. Window Installation: From the outside of your house, carefully place the window in the rough opening space, making sure it is centered. Use shims to level the window in place. Do not place the window directly on the sill. Use shims to create an air space to allow for expansion and contraction. Use a level on the bottom and sides of the window to make sure it is level and plumb. Tack one nail in a top corner and check again with a level. Make sure everything is plumb and tack sides, top, and bottom into place. Recheck, and nail the flange of the window to the exterior of the house with 2” roofing nails. You may now frame the window with J channel and attach the siding. From the inside of the house, gently stuff insulation in the space between the window and the wall. Do not pack too tightly or the insulation will lose its R value. Tools: Reciprocating saw, hammer, roofing nails 2”, level, tape measure, wood shims. |
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#5 |
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Not so new
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^ Okay, that's funny, but you should have a little more respect to the original poster instead of posting frivolous things.
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#6 | |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
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__Moderator Note__
roastelk, I know you're just playing around, but this is a technical forum, let's stay on topic. Quote:
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#7 |
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Member (4 bit)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 15
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blue nova, have your turned off the virus protection in your bios, if yours has it. This has causud problems with windows installs as far back as I can remember using windows
........sorry guys couldnt resist that last post. hey Alaron, that last post did include power tools, so it at least had some technical aspects to it...
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#8 |
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Member (9 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 398
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some technically rude aspects at least.
I would contact microsoft tech support and have them hold your hand through it... honestly, it will be a little frustrating, but do it. It just might work. tech support is always the last thing i consider no matter what im dealing with though... |
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#9 | |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Quote:
Have you tried testing the RAM with Memtest86+ yet? Cricket
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#10 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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2 gigs Corsair DDR2 XMS 240-pin RAM
250 gig Western Digital SATA 7200 RPM SE16 Hard Drive MSI K9N Neo NVIDIA nForce 550 Series Motherboard GeForce 7900 512 DDR3 RAM Enermax Noisetaker Power Supply (485 Watts) Athlon AMD64 X2 Dual Core Processor Creative Soundblaster Audigy 4 5.1 surround sound card Lite-On 16x DVD+-R/RW +- Drive Viewsonic 19" LCD monitor (2 ms response time) Saitek Eclipse Keyboard (red) Razer Diamondback mouse (salamander red) the last 3 probably aren't necessary, but what the heckI'm going to fiddle with the RAM in a bit, hopefully that will resolve the issue... |
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#11 |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Did you mess with the memory timings?
What kind of IDE cable is the burner on? 40 wire or 80 wire? How is the jumper set? Master or CS? Did you try doing the install with just 1 stick of RAM? Cricket
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#12 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 4
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Well the RAM is defective, I noticed a hardware issue with it so I've sent that back. I'm now hoping that it's not also the motherboard. Thanks for your help so far guys!
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