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04-15-2007, 09:49 PM
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#1 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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Another First Build
So I can tell you guys get this a lot but here's MY first build:
1 GIGABYTE GA-M61VME-S2 Socket AM2 NVIDIA GeForce 6100 / nForce 400 Micro ATX AMD $54.99 1 LOGISYS Computer XBlade CS859SL Silver Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case 450W $54.99 2 KINGWIN F-012BB 120mm Case Fan - Retail $9.98 ($4.99 each) 2 LOGISYS Computer CF80UVBL 80mm Case Fan - Retail $3.98 ($1.99 each) 1 LITE-ON Black IDE DVD-ROM Drive Model LH-16D1P-185 - OEM $16.99 1 Transcend JETRAM 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual $114.99 1 Recertified: Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM $59.99 1 Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Basic for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM $94.99 1 Open Box: AMD Athlon 64 X2 4600+ Windsor 2.4GHz Socket AM2 Processor Model ADA4600CUBOX - OEM $106.99 1 HIS Hightech Radeon X1650PRO 512MB GDDR2 PCI Express x16 CrossFire support Video Card - Retail $104.99 Grand Total: $622.88 |
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04-15-2007, 10:31 PM
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#2 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 115
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I suggest getting intel c2d, current they are better Power vs $.
After april 22 there will be a price drop and improvement for some of the processors. Current visa isnt worth while, im waiting for the next service pack. and personally i like this video card better http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130075 Ps: I dont suggest open box items ex: your cpu might not come with a heat sink, or be broken and then you have spent more money shipping it back and forth then u saved. (sorry this isn't a great amount of help) Last edited by HarshWinter; 04-15-2007 at 10:38 PM. |
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04-15-2007, 10:50 PM
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#3 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: eastern nc
Posts: 1,349
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What's your budget, J? Building an INTEL system is going to be considerably more expensive. AMD may be more affordable for you. A few changes may need to be made to your original game plan though. Let us know and we can help either way.
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DFI LP LT X48-E8600-Thermalright HR01 Plus-GeIL Esoteria PC2 6400-Sapphire HD3870 Xfire-Seagate Barracuda Drives-Antec P182-XP Pro
ASUS P5Q Deluxe-Q6700-TRUE BE-Noctua Fan-Corsair Dominator C5DF-Sapphire HD4870T-WD Black Drives-CM690-Windows 7 - powered by PC POWER & COOLING - |
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04-16-2007, 08:30 AM
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#4 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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I'm trying to stay under $700 and after shipping ($35 ish) I'm already getting pretty close.
So you guys recommend I wait a week and start over with a dual-core? I think if I did that I would go for the E4400... but that means I also need a different motherboard and consequently different memory, right? How about I upgrade to this mobo? JetWay J965GDAG-LF LGA 775 Intel G965 Express ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813153054 Also, is that video card better even though its only got half the memory? --- What if I went with this card instead: EVGA 512-P2-N548-TX GeForce 7600GS 512MB 128-bit GDDR2 PCI Express x16 Video Card - Retail http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130021 Finally, you don't trust open box, even from newegg? I thought they were pretty reputable and wouldn't send me a DOA or missing parts. Last edited by Jordanp1; 04-16-2007 at 09:39 AM. |
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04-17-2007, 05:54 PM
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#5 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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So here's the latest list. I'm trying to stay below $700. Gonna wait till the price drop in 5 days.
Case: 1 LOGISYS Black ATX Mid Tower 450W Power Supply - Retail $59.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16811105113 Case Fans: 2 LOGISYS Computer CF80UVBL 80mm Case Fan - Retail $3.98 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16811999489 2 KINGWIN F-012BB 120mm Case Fan - Retail $9.98 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16811999965 Mobo: 1 ASRock ConRoe945G-DVI LGA 775 Intel 945G Micro ATX Intel - Retail $73.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16813157104 Video Card: 1 EVGA 512-P2-N548-TX GeForce 7600GS 512MB GDDR2 PCI-E x16 - Retail $112.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16814130021 CPU: 1 Intel Core 2 Duo E4300 Allendale 1.8GHz LGA 775 Model BX80557E4300 - Retail $139.00 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16819115013 RAM: 1 WINTEC AMPO (2 x 1GB) SDRAM DDR2 667 (PC2 5300) Dual Channel Kit - Retail $93.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16820161677 HDD: 1 Recertified: Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB SATA 3.0Gb/s - OEM $59.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16822136063 Optical Drive: 1 LITE-ON Black IDE DVD-ROM Drive Model LH-16D1P-185 - OEM $16.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16827106067 OS: 1 Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Basic for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM $94.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16832116196 Subtotal: $665.89 |
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04-17-2007, 06:11 PM
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#6 |
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Wrench Bender
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Plymouth,MN
Posts: 5,961
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The PSU that comes with that case is a low quailty unit and is not an ATX 2.0. That PSU is for the older AGP video card systems, PCI-E system need the ATX 2.0 PSU.
For a mobo, would look at this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131041 about the same price and a bit better quaity. This ram is known to work with the Asus mobos: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145098
__________________
"When sliding down the banister of life; look out for splinters pointing up."
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04-18-2007, 05:20 AM
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#7 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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I don't really know very much about motherboards, so what makes that one better? Just from looking at the specs the one I found seems better: it has more memory slots, better onboard audio and comes with more cables and stuff. Everything else looks the same.
Is it just a more trusted manufacturer? |
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04-18-2007, 10:55 AM
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#8 | |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Quote:
ASUS motherboards use better quality parts and have better quality control. ASRock motherboards are basically bargain basement units.  Cricket
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04-18-2007, 11:30 AM
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#9 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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What I like about this site most is that the regulars always recommend quality first, then look for the best price. I have built with ASRock and the system worked perfect. However, if you do your reserch you will quickly see that there products are much less reliable than Asus.
Quality is not just better parts, its better overall reliablity, and that is what Asus is know for. |
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04-18-2007, 02:38 PM
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#10 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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Cool, thanks guys. I'll definately go with the Asus board now (even if I do have to sacrifice a little expandability, grr)...
I also decided to switch up to this SATA optical drive: LITE-ON Combo Drive Black SATA Model SHC-52S7K-05 - OEM $25.99 http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16827106040 Any final suggestions before I finally get started on this thing? |
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04-18-2007, 03:25 PM
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#11 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 7,723
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You need to upgrade your power supply. That case comes with a poor quality unit. And that is never an area to cut corners. This FSP is a great bang for the buck: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817104954
If you want to burn and read DVDs and CDs, bump up that optical to a Retail SATA LiteOn DVDRW. It will come with burning software. That unit in your list does not have software or burn DVDs. Vista Home Basic does not have any of the interesting 'Vista' features. And we have been recommending that new builds stay with XP for now for the proven stability. Finally, I'd pick up a new hard drive over a re-certified unit. You never know the quality of the unit you will receive.
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Fold for PCMech: Team 13761 |
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04-19-2007, 10:23 AM
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#12 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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is this a decent power supply? and will it do what I need it to?
ePOWER ZU-400W-1 ATX 1.3 400W Power Supply - Retail http://www.newegg.com/product/produc...82E16817101024 |
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04-19-2007, 06:59 PM
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#13 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: tfp
Posts: 1,923
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No. Any powersupply that cheap is, well, cheap. Take a look at the recommended powersupply list: http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=131195
And be prepared to spend $80 to $100 for a good quality unit. Cheap units are known to fail, and to take out other parts with them when they die. (Actually, depending on the power requirements of your build, a good unit might be cheaper than I quoted above; you're not running a high end video card, which sucks TONS of power :-) Keep an eye out for recommendations on the needed Wattage; I'm no good at that :-(
__________________
System: ASUS A8N32-SLI Deluxe AMD Opteron Denmark 165 Sapphire Radeon 4850x2 2X1GB G.Skill DDR400 Ram Corsair 850W PSU Thermaltake Soprano case Seagate 7200.10 320GB Last edited by LeftyAce; 04-19-2007 at 07:07 PM. |
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04-19-2007, 07:13 PM
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#14 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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__________________
-FK- "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw, The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die, We shall not sleep, though poppies grow, In Flanders fields." - John McCrae, May 1915 |
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04-27-2007, 02:43 PM
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#15 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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Hheeellp!!!
  HELP!!I got everything as discussed above: the ASUS mobo and the EVGA video card and that FSU power suppy. I got everything put together and turned it on. All the lights and fans came on, the monitor turned on... but it didn't get any signal!! I tried three different monitors with three different cables (one of which was just running perfectly on another machine). I even tried running them through the MOBO's onboard video card (with and without the video card attached) and I just couldn't get a signal! WHAT DID I DO WRONG!?!?? |
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04-27-2007, 02:45 PM
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#16 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 7,723
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First thing to check, did you plug in BOTH the 24pin ATX power and the separate 2x2 square power connection?
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04-27-2007, 02:47 PM
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#17 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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No... just the big one...
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04-27-2007, 02:52 PM
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#18 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 7,723
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Plug in the second one too.
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04-27-2007, 02:52 PM
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#19 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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OK, I tried plugging in the 4-pin one also but that made it worse! With that one in none of the fans or lights turn on.
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04-27-2007, 02:57 PM
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#20 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 7,723
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Try this: http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=132409 Be sure to remove the motherboard from the case.
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04-28-2007, 07:11 PM
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#21 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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Alright guys, thanks so much for all your help. I get everything finally up and running and it looks great....
One little thought: my MOBO came with a temp program called "pc probe II". It's telling me that my cpu is running at 36 C and my MOBO is at 54 C which it says is too high. I'm not really even doing anything real intensive right now... just installing and updating stuff. Is that too high of a temp? I saw that someone just asked a similar question but it looked like he was asking about his CPU temp not the MOBO temp, what kind of temps should I be aiming for on the mobo? |
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04-29-2007, 02:42 PM
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#22 |
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Wrench Bender
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Plymouth,MN
Posts: 5,961
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Check the fans in the case, the fans on the back should be blowing out of the case and if any front fans, they should blow into the case.
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05-01-2007, 06:04 PM
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#23 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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there're no front fans but there's a side fan blowing out and a back blowing out. All the air coming out is really cool air. It's now up to 61 degrees after playing LOTRO for several hours in a slightly warm room. Is that too hot? should I be worried?
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05-01-2007, 06:10 PM
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#24 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: USA
Posts: 7,723
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Is this the CPU or the motherboard that is at 61C?
For the motherboard, that is too hot. For the CPU, nothing to worry about but still warmer then it should be. Two things to try: First, try moving the side fan to the front as exhaust. If thats not possible, try flipping it around for side intake and see how that goes. If the temps are still warm, try reseating the heatsink. They are tricky to lock in completely. Try this guide: http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=176924 |
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06-09-2007, 10:00 AM
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#25 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 56
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Cool, I got the temperature down by putting in a big intake fan on the front and flipping the side fan to intake.
I just bought myself a spiffy new soundcard 'cuz the onboard sound was killing me: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829120103 But I can't get it to work. The manual that it came with is terrible so I don't really know what to do. I plugged it in to the pci port, do I need to hook up all those jumpers and stuff on the bottom of the card? Which wires are supposed to go there? Thanks! |
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06-09-2007, 10:07 AM
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#26 |
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9mm wins.
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Behind my Glock 34.
Posts: 4,544
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Make sure you disable the onboard sound. You go into the BIOS settings to do so.
And you need to install the drivers for the new sound card in Windows. I don't think you need to worry about any of the jumpers on the sound card. You also do NOT need to worry about plugging anything into those 3-pin connectors (blue and black) on top of the sound card. |
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