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#1 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
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1st build - please critique
After reading through some threads on this forum, I've gathered up enough courage to attempt my own build. I would like to use this machine for some gamming and possibly serve as low end home theater PC. There might be a chance for over clocking down the road, but not immediately. I've made a BOM list based on some of the other forum members list. Please take a look and make some recommendations. Thanks in advance!
Monitor: SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor 300 cd/m2 700:1(DC 3000:1) - Retail $294.99 after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824001096 Motherboard: ASUS P5K LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail $139.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131180 PSU: Corsair HX Series CMPSU-520HX 520W Power Supply Retail $95 after MIR http://www.zipzoomfly.com/jsp/Produc...uctCode=373100 Is this enough power? Also is this a good e-tailer. CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Conroe 2.66GHz 4M shared L2 Cache LGA 775 Processor - Retail $199 http://www.mwave.com/mwave/skusearch...iteria=BA24051 Good price, but what about e-tailer reputation? Video card: EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Video Card - Retail $269.99 after MIR Should I stay with 320MB or go for 640MB version? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130038 HD: Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS (Perpendicular Recording Technology) 320GB 7200 RPM 16MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM $79.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148140 DVD: LITE-ON Black 20X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 20X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 12X DVD-RAM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM 2MB Cache SATA DVD Burner with LightScribe - Retail $39.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106072 Case: Antec Performance One P180B Black 0.8mm cold rolled steel for durability through the majority of chassis 1.0mm cold rolled steel around the 4 x HDD area ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Retail $79.99 after MIR http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811129017 Memory: CORSAIR XMS2 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 675 (PC2 5400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory - Retail $84.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820145015 Should I go with Corsair or G-Skill? Is speed enough? Should I go with DDR2 800? OS: Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM $111.99 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16832116202 Vista or XP? Would prefer latest, but are there compatibility issues? TOTAL = $1485.92 Appreciate the help. |
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#2 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
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Welcome to PCMech. Solid list, I only have a couple suggestions.
The Corsair 520HX is a great PSU, plenty of power. ZZF and MWave are fine retailers. You can check them and any others here: http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Mwave The 320MB version of the 8800GTS is what we recommend. The 640 version doesn't increase performance enough to justify the higher price. If you want to overclock down the road, go with the DDR2-800 for the extra headroom. We recommend Corsair. Vista's initial bugs are worked out for the most part, so its a toss up if you want it or XP.
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Fold for PCMech: Team 13761 |
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#3 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
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Thanks for the response. One more question regarding the case. Any reason to go for the Antec P182 vs the P180 model. I read somewhere that the P182 model had HD audio compatible connectors. What is this and is this something I should have for future proofing?
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#4 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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I have heard that the 640 memory video card might be a better match for larger monitors and since you are using a 22 inch you might check into that further. I dont have a 8800 anything yet so that is just what I have heard.
The main building difference with the 182 and 180 as far as I know is cable management. The 182 took the 180 and made it much easier to work with by designing a MB tray to run your cables behind. It also has slots/holes other places to keep all your cables from stringing across the case. They also added water cooling ports for those going that direction. Not sure about the HD audio compatible connectors will have to wait for another replay for that one. Kat Kat |
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#5 |
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Member (9 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 479
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Wow...well that saves me my own "parts check" thread as I'm planning on virually the same build. Is it recommended to upgrade the heat sink from stock in order to overclock an e6750 to over 3GHz?
Edit: Oh, and http://www.buy.com/prod/corsair-520w...203270716.html
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Intel E6750 @ 3.2GHz | Gigabyte GA-P35-DS3R | EVGA 8800GTS 320MB ACS3 | Corsair XMS2 DDR800 (4x1GB) | Corsair 520HX | Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB | Lite-On Combo Drive | Vista 32-bit Last edited by Dswissmiss; 07-26-2007 at 10:42 AM. |
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#6 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
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Dswissmiss, you can do a bit of overclocking on the stock heatsink. Keep in mind though that changing it wipes your warranty coverage. And Buy.com is not a recommended place to buy anything, check their rating: http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Buy
If you have any other build questions, please start your own thread. This is texasranger's.
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#7 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
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cold feet
This forum got me really pschyed for my first build. But as I start to do more and more research/reading on computer builds, I'm starting to get cold feet. Seems the more I read, the less I know. Doing more reading on the Asus P5K (vanilla board), I finding there is a vdroop issue. Being a noob, I have absolutely no idea what this is. Anyone know if this vdroop issue is only revelant for OCing and quad cores or does it affect C2D I'm planning on using wthout OCing for now.
If I don't plan on OCing, should it be pretty straight foward for the build. Do I need to mess with BIOS? I think I can physically put this machine together, but when it comes to setting up the BIOS and other stuff, I have no experience. |
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#8 |
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Member (9 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: New York
Posts: 479
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No need to get cold feet. Just keep doing your research and ask any questions you have on these forums. Make sure to also go through the building instructions on this website or others to get comfortable with the build and BIOS process. Trust me, once you go through with this you'll be addicted.
Alaron: The only reason I suggested buy.com is because I actually bought the same PSU there last week using google checkout. They even shipped it in 2 days even though I got free 7 day shipping. But I trust resellerratings.com as well, although I think they gave buy.com lower than other sites (noticed most of the complaints being about false advertising regarding discounts). Last edited by Dswissmiss; 07-26-2007 at 01:24 PM. |
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#9 | ||||
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
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Cricket
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#10 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 4
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pulled the trigger
Thanks everyone for their inputs. Ok, I bought all the parts and have already received them. I did the HAL2000 recommended initial build outside the case and all seemed well as I got some output on my monitor. Last night, I started trying to put the components into the case, but ran into some problems. I ended up with the Antec P182 case instead of the P180. I placed my Corsair PSU into the PSU cage and tried to route the power cables from the lower chamber to the upper chamber. It was too tight. The only way I can think of making it work is removing the lower chamber fan. Does anyone with a P182 case know how to do this? It doesn't look like it's tied down with any screws or anything. Seems like you just have to shift it to one side and pull out. I tried doing that, but thing didn't budge and I was afraid of exerting any more force since the fan plastic seems thin and flimsy.
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