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#1 |
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Member (9 bit)
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A Quest for you all
So recently i took a delve into the unknown, or not so much, but basically i decided it was time to build my own computer. Seeing as its much cheaper and you can get your own parts. Along with the fact that i recently passed some Cisco exam I cant remember the name of.
So excited as I have been I put the computer together only to find out the computer wasn't booting, nothing, no fans on, power supply shut off. So i immediatly took a tantrum around the house trying to beat up thin air. After about 10 days (1 hour) of aimlessness I took a look on here from the tutorial i'd been following amongst others. I've stripped the computer down to its knees and only connected the bare essentials and tired to boot it from a screwdriver. However still, no reply from mr. computer. A little gadget my parents own is a tester of if theres current passing through the area. Testing it I managed to get a current from the lead, uh, leading (no pun intended) to the power supply, from that I was unable to get a current from any of the leads off of the powersupply, however im presuming that it doesnt send power to the leads unless they need it. Regardless of this the computers still failing on me so before sending the PSU away, i was just checking that there isn't anything i can do, or if theres a possibility thats its something else. Processor : Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Motherboard : EVGA 650i Ultra Ram : 2GB OCZ Sli Edition 800mhz Power Supply : OCZ GameXStream 600w Hard Drive : Wester Digital 250GB, 16MB Cache CD Drive : Old one knicked from an old PC Graphics Card : EVGA 8800GTS 320mb Sound Card : Creative Sound Blaster SE I dont think theres anything i missed, and i doubt the computers so undernourished of power that it wont even turn on. Thanks for your help and any suggestions will be greatly appreciated, i've been waiting damn long for this pc, just to try Counter Stirke on more than just 10fps. |
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#2 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 134
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did you take everything apart and put the power supply motherboard vid card cpu and a stick of ram together make sure their sitted and make sure the connections r firm and the power supply it on (on its back switch)
Last edited by marine63; 08-03-2007 at 04:01 PM. |
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#3 |
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Member (4 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 8
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are you sure u have wired the power switch up right from ur case to the motherboard.
also most knew boards require the 6 or 8 pin power supply aswell as the 20-24 pin plug. most power packs dont have these on and u have to by the lead separately. very annoying. |
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#4 |
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Member (9 bit)
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I just realised after posting that i should've included this but my power supply only comes with a 4 pin 12v power connector, and not the 24 pin. So what adapter do i need to have this?
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#5 |
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Member (11 bit)
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Is this by any chance a modular power supply (Removable wires)? You need to connect the 24 pin cable and the 2 x 2 cpu power cable. If you don't have such a 24 pin cable you will need to get a power supply that has one.
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Asus P5ND2-SLi-Deluxe Mobo, Intel 3.0ghz P4 w/ht, 2 GB CORSAIR 667 DDR2, 1 GB Ultra DDR2 533 mhz PC4200 ram, BFGTech Nvidia 6600 GT OC SLi video card, WD 4000KS OEM SATA II HDD, Seagate 320gb SATA II HDD 7200rpm, WD 320 gb SATA II HDD, Creative Soundblaster Audigy Platinum, Sony DRU 720 DVD-RW, LG GCE8240B CD-RW, Maddog Multimedia 500w modular PSU & WinXP Pro SP2, Samsung BF960 19" LCD. |
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#6 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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All 2.0 ATX PSU should come with a 24 pin cable, so if it is modular you need to look around for it, and if it just does not have one then you need to figure out if the PSU is ATX 2.0 compliant or not.
Kat |
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#7 |
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Member (9 bit)
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Found it, i'm being an idiot, hence the name, however i'm now faced with another problem, its probably just my idiocity again but the motherboard led comes on, however thats the only thing to power up, the PSUs fan stays off, i had a couple of fans plugged into test, nada, cpu fan refuses to work (its plugged in the right socket) and i'm getting no display. So alas i still think the PSU is up to something. Sorry about this.
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#8 |
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Member (11 bit)
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Did you try the out of the case procedure?. There is obviously something you are missing. Read the thread and follow the steps and you should be able to get it working or isolate the problem. HTH
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#9 |
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Member (9 bit)
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Hookay, so thanks for your help, basically i was doing something wrong somewhere, either not plugging the mobo power connector in far enough or something up with the start button, regardless it all seemed to be running smoothly. However here's a slight twist for you all.
So i powered up the working computer, all fans working perfectly, i go into the bios and then just make sure everything is ok. Bam, computer shuts off, i restart and within about 1 minuite again, it shuts off. So i had a little peak around, took out the sound card i had in, tryed again, still it shuts down. So from that and other procedures i did, i think ive managed to get it down to the ram. With the ram in, the computer starts up all happy, goes around and then shuts down. HOWEVER, without the ram i have no display, but it stays on fine, the thing i've noticed was one of the fans seems to be spinning faster as its making a louder noise. SO without the ram the computer stays on, but with the ram it shuts off. I have tried each stick in different slots and individually, still no dice. Its not the PSU as it should be enough, plus i can open the cd drive with the ram in place. Is it faulty memory? Or am i missing something out of the equation Refer to post 1 on details of computer. edit: It lists the cd drive as slave for IDE, when i have no other cd drive ANd it lists my hard drive as master 2 for the sata part, anyone know whats up with that? edit2: The fan i think which is running faster is the Graphics Card, the noise appears to be coming from there but when looking at it the graphics card fan looks to be running just as fast with the ram as without when its louder. Last edited by The Village Idiot; 08-04-2007 at 12:06 PM. |
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#10 |
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Member (9 bit)
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Sorry, this is all probably too elementary, but I wanted to start from square one. First, when you installed the Intel CPU cooler did you hear 4 distinct clicks for each mounting pin? It can be difficult to get them to click in all the way sometimes. On the back side of your motherboard you should be able to see 4 plastic clip bottoms coming through the mounting holes. Your CPU Heatsink/Fan should be secure and not able to move around if you try to lift/twist it. Also be sure that you have the 4 pin CPU fan plug plugged into the motherboard.
I have attached a picture of the main power connections you need to make for your computer to be powered correctly. You need the 24 pin main connector, the 4 pin (or 8 pin depending on your motherboard revision) auxillary connector, and the video card power connector. Make sure the ram is installed in either the white set of slots or the black set of slots (try both), not one stick in each color slot. You also should also try putting the CD Drive on the Cable Select Jumper setting if none of the above stuff works. Also, some of the SATA ports might be slave ports and some might be master ports (check your manual). Plug your SATA drive into a Master port. Hopefully something in there will help you towards getting your new computer up and running.
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#11 |
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Member (9 bit)
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thanks for the help, a quick update, i looked in the bios settings under temperature monitor or something, and realised my problem there. The processor is getting ridiculously hot, it got just over 250 degrees farenheit before the computer shut down on me, thereofore quite possibly being the problem. I'm having a real go at the cooler because its not quick slamming down like the rest, 2 will go in fine, but the other 2 i have problems getting them down. I'm currently using a stock cooler because the one i bought was too big for the case.
edit: Me and this computer dont get along, big time, gahh, this is more of a moan at the compter than help, but now, the fan is runing nice and fast, like it was without the ram, its not shutting down, but i cant see on the display anything, it stays in stand by! edit 2: right now i have the screen working, i noticed that i hadnt plugged something in on the motherboard, thats why i was getting the large rpm on the fan and no display. So right now this is what im getting CPU : 56 degrees C/ 133 Degrees Farenheit CPU Core : 1.32v CPU FSB : 1.20V Memory : 1.83V +3.3V : 3.28V +3.3V Dual : 3.28V +12V : 12.45V +5V : 4.99V +Vbat : 2.98V CPU Fan Speed : 1670 RPM nForce Fan Speed : 0 RPM Chassis Fan Speed : 0 RPM Chassis are working fine, there is no nforce fan. Are these ok for what they are, i mean what i really want to know is, is the fan speed vs temperature correct? Bearing in mind this is a stock cooler At the start of this it was a fight between 56 degrees C/ 133 degrees farenheit and 55 degrees C/ 131 Degrees farenheit. Last edited by The Village Idiot; 08-04-2007 at 01:23 PM. |
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#12 |
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Wrench Bender
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Plymouth,MN
Posts: 5,961
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CPU temp is within a working range, not sure what a E6750 should be at idle. One thought is that if you have swapped around heatsinks, the thermal pad on the retail heatsink could be screwed up or too much thermal compound if applied.
Chassis fan with no RPM reading is probably correct, the fan probably doesn't have the RPM sensor.
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"When sliding down the banister of life; look out for splinters pointing up."
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#13 |
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Member (9 bit)
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If those are your idle temperatures then you don't have the heatsink attached correctly. You MUST get all 4 mounting pins to click or you will overheat (and possibly damage) your CPU. It helps if you push the pins across from each other rather than the ones right next to each other. Maybe this diagram will help. You would go in order pressing mounting pins 1 through 4 being sure that you hear a distinct click from each pin as you go. The last pin will probably be hard to get clicked, but it it necessary that the HSF be mounted correctly for a stable system.
1 4 3 2 Last edited by andper10; 08-05-2007 at 10:27 PM. |
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