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09-20-2007, 03:20 PM
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#1 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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First Build - thoughts on my plans?
Hi all. I am attempting building a PC for the first time. The only upgrades I've ever done in my lazily-content Dell Dimension life were graphics cards and wireless adapters. It's about 5 years old now, and I guess I have an itch to do something, plus get a better gaming system.
I've attached my NewEgg parts wishlist. Outside of unforeseen cable shortages, I think I have included everything I need, outside of a screwdriver, to build this thing on the kitchen table. i'm planning on getting Vista 64-bit to take full advantage of the RAM. Please let me know if there are any weird issues you see (like one component will drastically weigh down or be far ahead of the rest), or if you think this might be a little complex for a first-timer. I appreciate all responses! Thanks in advance! edit: i may get the OEM Vista NZXT Zero Black/Silver Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail Model #: Zero Item #: N82E16811146029 $149.99 TRIPP LITE SUPER7 7 Feet 7 Outlets 2350 Power Surge Protector - Retail Model #: SUPER7 Item #: N82E16812120300 $14.99 Intel BOXD975XBX2KR LGA 775 Intel 975X ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail Model #: BOXD975XBX2KR Item #: N82E16813121059 $214.99 EVGA 512-P2-N773-AR GeForce 8600GTS 512MB 128-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail Model #: 512-P2-N773-AR Item #: N82E16814130286 $209.99 Rosewill RX750-D-B ATX12V v2.2 & EPS12V v2.91 750W Power Supply - Retail Model #: RX750-D-B Item #: N82E16817182069 $134.99 Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail Model #: BX80562Q6600 Item #: N82E16819115017 $279.99 CORSAIR XMS2 4GB(2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model TWIN2X4096-6400C5DHX - Retail Model #: TWIN2X4096-6400C5DHX Item #: N82E16820145176 $279.00 Western Digital Raptor WD740ADFD 74GB 10,000 RPM Serial ATA150 Hard Drive - OEM Model #: WD740ADFD Item #: N82E16822136033 $149.99 Western Digital Caviar SE16 WD2500KS 250GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #: WD2500KS Item #: N82E16822144701 $74.99 Logitech 967738-0403 Black USB Standard Deluxe 250 Keyboard - OEM Model #: 967738-0403 Item #: N82E16823126013 $8.99 Hanns·G HC-194D Black 19" 8ms DVI LCD Monitor - Retail Model #: HC-194D Item #: N82E16824254004 $159.99 Microsoft D66-00066 Black 3 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB + PS/2 Wired Optical Mouse - OEM Model #: D66-00066S Item #: N82E16826105185 $11.99 Sony NEC Optiarc Black IDE DVD-ROM Drive Model DDU1615/B2s - OEM Model #: DDU1615/B2s Item #: N82E16827101131 $17.99 Microsoft Windows Vista Home Premium DVD - Retail Model #: 66I-00002 Item #: N82E16832116142 $219.99 Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM Model #: ARCTIC SILVER 5 Item #: N82E16835100007 $5.99 Subtotal: $1,933.86 |
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09-20-2007, 03:46 PM
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#2 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern US
Posts: 108
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Most people on this forum recommend an Asus P5K Motherboard. Heres a link:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131180 The 8600gts is nice, but if you can afford it, go for the 8800gts. Heres a link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130038 If it's over your budget, or you don't think you'll need that much power, here is another 8600gts that comes factory overclocked:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814127284 Rosewell PSUs are cheap, but low quality. The PSU is one of the most important parts, and you need a quality one or it could fry your whole computer. Heres a list of the good and the bad:http://forum.pcmech.com/showthread.php?t=131195 WD harddrives are nice, but most people in this forum recommend seagate. The 320GB is the best bang for the buck right now. Most newer MoBos dont support IDE optical drives, so you'll need to switch it to SATA. Lite-On's are the most recommended. Everything else looks good to me. |
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09-20-2007, 04:24 PM
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#3 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Is that a significant drop in MoBo quality? It seems to be a rather large price difference.
I can afford the 8800 GTS GFX card if I drop that MoBo to the one you suggested, but is that like sticking a NOS in a Plymouth Voyager? I think, based on one of the calculators I found in this forum, that I can drop the PSU down quite a bit (600W?) and can thus probably afford a better one. I noticed that my HDDs are of two different interface types. Does this matter? |
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09-20-2007, 04:31 PM
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#4 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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I second everything drum mentioned and will add:
You would be better off skipping the Raptor and just getting a bigger Seagate 7200 HD. The Raptors are a little bit faster but you would probably never notice the difference. You pay a huge premium price for very little performance gain. Use your saving to get an 8800 GTS which is much much faster than an 8600. Stick with 2 gigs of ram for now. It is plenty to run just about any game on the market. I would also recommend sticking with a 32 bit OS just because there have been quite a few reports of slow driver support and more bugs with the 64 bit version. But lately seeing more people satisfied so maybe they got that fixed. Kat
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ANTEC 900 / ASUS P5K / C2D E6750 / SAPPHIRE RADEON HD 6750 1 GB/ CORSAIR 620 HX / CORSAIR XMS 4GB DDR2 800 / SEAGATE 320 GB / LITE-ON 20X DVD BURNER / WINDOWS 7 PROFESSIONAL / LOGITECH MX 518 MOUSE / SAITEK ECLIPSE KEYBOARD / ACER 22” WS LCD |
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09-20-2007, 04:34 PM
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#5 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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The 975 chipset boards always carried a price premium - the P35 chipset boards, like the P5K, are much newer, and support a wider range of processors. It's by no means a low quality / low performance motherboard. You'd have a better gaming system with the 8800GTS.
This Corsair 520w power supply is top quality, and would be more than adequate for that system with the more powerful video card http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...corsair%2b520w I'm tempted to say don't bother with the Raptor. The newest 7200.10 Seagate drives with 16MB cache come close to matching them in performance, and eclipsing them for storage. I'd probably go for a 500GB drive: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...b7200.10%2b500 Is that optical drive SATA interface? IDE drives aren't recommended for use with the latest motherboards - their IDE controllers are often third party. Edit: Katreat was posting while I was typing - I second his suggestion about the RAM. You can always add another 2GB for less money in the future.
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-FK- "Take up our quarrel with the foe: To you from failing hands we throw, The torch; be yours to hold it high. If ye break faith with us who die, We shall not sleep, though poppies grow, In Flanders fields." - John McCrae, May 1915 |
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09-20-2007, 04:41 PM
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#6 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: eastern US
Posts: 108
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No, not a drop in MoBo quality. Intel and Asus are both good brands, the Intel may have a few differnt features, such as crossfire, and makes it more expensive. Both are good, the Asus is cheaper and more recommended.
People on this forum recommend Corsair PSUs. Heres a good one: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817139002 Or, for a little cheaper, this one is a good quality one also: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16817341002 The HDDs should both be SATA. The 10,000rpm HDD is unnessisary. Seagate's 7200.10 are nice: 80GB:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148231 320GB:http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16822148140 The Seagate 320GB is the same price as their 250GB. |
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09-20-2007, 04:41 PM
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#7 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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The Asus P5K is a premium MB. You can get a basic P5K or a deluxe with all the bells and whistles if you want more features. Asus is just the most reliable MB maker with the best track record.
If you can afford the 8800 GTS then definitely go that direction if you are planning on gaming. It is quite a large performance leap over the 8600 series. You could probably get by with about 500W if it is from a good quality PSU but to allow a bit of head room I would look at 550-650W. Just as important as total watts is how clean or pure the power is, that is why they publish a good/bad list. A cheap PSU may say 700W but it won’t give it to you steady when under stress. A quality PSU will give you its rated power when you need it. On newer builds go SATA with HD and Burners. IDE is slowly on its way out. Edit: Oh, and you dont need the Artic Silver 5 any longer. The stock heat sink will come with thermal compound already applied. That might have been one of the greatest changes from my first build to my last, I always worried that I had applied too much or too little, loved someone else deciding for me  .
Last edited by Katreat; 09-20-2007 at 04:49 PM. |
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09-20-2007, 05:09 PM
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#8 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 34
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yea the P5 deluxes are really nice.
go with asus, you won't regret it any bit |
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09-20-2007, 05:12 PM
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#9 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Well, the price has now dropped about 500 bucks.
I'm probably going to order the quadcore at another retailer that is guaranteeing G0 stepping. because i was told this was good  I will be interested in getting a TV Tuner and DVD Burner eventually. Does this affect anything? Should I look into getting an all-in-one DVD/CD reader/burner right now and dropping the SATA reader I just added? This didn't get much less future-proof, did it? I can pop in more RAM and be right up to spec down the road, it seems. Is the RAM I chose decent? I see more problems than I am used to in the NewEgg reviews. LAST QUESTION : ) What is the point of having 2x7,200 RPM HDDs? I was led to believe I was getting a small 10,000 RPM one to have a balance between price and running the OS ripping fast, with the 7200 for file storage. Can you give me a quick rundown on how you envision these HDDs being set up; OS, swap file, game installs, movies/documents, backup of important files, and whatever else you are thinking? I don't know anything about "RAID", so please be gentle. Here is the set up now: NZXT Zero Black/Silver Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail Model #: Zero Item #: N82E16811146029 $149.99 TRIPP LITE SUPER7 7 Feet 7 Outlets 2350 Power Surge Protector - Retail Model #: SUPER7 Item #: N82E16812120300 $14.99 ASUS P5K LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail Model #: P5K Item #: N82E16813131180 $134.99 EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail Model #: 320-P2-N815-AR Item #: N82E16814130038 $294.99 CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - Retail Model #: CMPSU-620HX Item #: N82E16817139002 $169.99 Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail Model #: BX80562Q6600 Item #: N82E16819115017 $279.99 G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail Model #: F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ Item #: N82E16820231098 $69.99 Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST3320620AS (Perpendicular Recording Technology) 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #: ST3320620AS Item #: N82E16822148140 $79.99 Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 ST380815AS 80GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #: ST380815AS Item #: N82E16822148231 $43.99 Logitech 967738-0403 Black USB Standard Deluxe 250 Keyboard - OEM Model #: 967738-0403 Item #: N82E16823126013 $8.99 Hanns·G HC-194D Black 19" 8ms DVI LCD Monitor - Retail Model #: HC-194D Item #: N82E16824254004 $159.99 Microsoft D66-00066 Black 3 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB + PS/2 Wired Optical Mouse - OEM Model #: D66-00066S Item #: N82E16826105185 $11.99 LITE-ON Black SATA DVD-ROM Drive Model DH-16D2S-04 - OEM Model #: DH-16D2S-04 Item #: N82E16827106095 $17.99 Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM Model #: 66I-00715 Item #: N82E16832116202 $111.99 Subtotal: $1,549.86 |
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09-20-2007, 05:19 PM
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#10 |
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Wx geek
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Indiana
Posts: 6,638
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I'd just order the CPU with everything else. I don't think you need to worry about the stepping unless you want to mess around with overclocking.
Why not just get the DVD burner now? They are $10-$15 more than the DVD-ROM. I personally prefer Corsair XMS RAM, but holy cow, is RAM that cheap?? Wow...anyways, I don't have experience with GSkill so I can't comment there. That motherboard actually supports 8GB so I don't think another 2 will be a problem. Just get one large hard drive. You can get a 500 gig for the same price as those two. And you get 100 gig more...
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"It is the way of man to make monsters and it is the nature of monsters to destroy their makers." |
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09-20-2007, 05:28 PM
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#11 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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I actually didn't notice you hadn't picked out a DVD burner. There's really no reason not to, they're cheap and will read and write anything. You could get it instead of, or in addition to that ROM drive.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16827106057 Adding a TV tuner won't be a problem. I'd actually recommend you going for 64-bit Vista. A 32-bit OS won't be able to register 4GB of RAM, if you chose that upgrade route. My suggestion was for one 500GB hard drive - you can partition off, say, 50GB for the operating system, then partition the rest of the space and keep your data here. RAID, in my opinion, is overrated for home systems. With the money you've saved, you might consider a monitor upgrade. 22" screens are in the best price-size ratio at the moment, and Hanns-G monitors are budget screens. This Samsung I reckon would be a very worthwhile upgrade. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824001096 |
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09-20-2007, 05:41 PM
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#12 |
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Member (9 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 304
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i love that burner...
as to the 64 bit route, (i just put a build together about 3 months ago,) I also got that cheap system builders OEM pack of vista. (32bit of course) I was thinking that in a few years i would make the transition to 64bit... Of course im not very smart so your sugestion is probly better.....  also: with the GTS, i would say nothing bigger resolution wise as 1680x1050. I own an oc'ed card of the same and it SCreAMs at that resolution....up it up a little and the card is a roadblock> Hope i help and hope everyone else helps too.
Last edited by Icyman23; 09-20-2007 at 05:45 PM. |
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09-20-2007, 06:52 PM
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#13 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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I'm in the process of picking out a monitor before voicing my questions and concerns on my again-updated hardware list.
I'm not sure how I feel about the circles-turn-into-ovals widescreen monitors, and I heard that they slow down the graphics in games. |
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09-20-2007, 06:58 PM
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#14 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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I can say without concern that I'd find it difficult to go back to a non-widescreen monitor now. The 'circles-to-ovals' thing only applies if you were using a non-widescreen resolution, which never has to be the case anymore. The majority of new games support these resolutions, and those that don't can usually be fixed with a visit to the Widescreen Gaming wiki (http://www.widescreengamingforum.com...itle=Main_Page)
They don't 'slow down' graphics at all.
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09-20-2007, 07:10 PM
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#15 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Ok. Also, thinking about how sweet it will be to watch Planet Earth on that monitor is driving me crazy; I want to...obtain, the Hi-def episodes now : )
Ok, so now I am back to thinking about 64-bit Vista. But still keeping that low-low-price 2 GB of RAM? Maybe I oughta pick out a 'real' mouse and keyboard; I've always liked the Microsoft blue optical mouse and the Dell keyboard though, so clearly I'm not very picky. I dunno if it's worth extra money to me to upgrade this. I really don't like the way mice with buttons on the sides feel in my hand, the 'functionality' bothers me more than anything when it comes to web-surfing, etc, though I've never used them for gaming. Here's the current setup. My friend is trying to convince me to get a 680i MoBo, but I don't really see a reason if I'm not using SLI and I'm not some kind of over-clocking enthusiast. I want to be able to play new-release games for 5-6 years, obviously I'm not going to be able to stay at the highest settings all the time, but my current PC has lasted me 5 already and I see no reason I can't get a reasonable machine now that will do the same, which is what I think we are arriving at. I really appreciate the help so far. I might just be overly excited but I am pretty confident that I am getting a better system for less money as a result of this thread. NZXT Zero Black/Silver Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail Model #: Zero Item #: N82E16811146029 $149.99 TRIPP LITE SUPER7 7 Feet 7 Outlets 2350 Power Surge Protector - Retail Model #: SUPER7 Item #: N82E16812120300 $14.99 ASUS P5K LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail Model #: P5K Item #: N82E16813131180 $134.99 EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail Model #: 320-P2-N815-AR Item #: N82E16814130038 $294.99 Update CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - Retail Model #: CMPSU-620HX Item #: N82E16817139002 $169.99 Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail Model #: BX80562Q6600 Item #: N82E16819115017 $279.99 G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail Model #: F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ Item #: N82E16820231098 $69.99 Seagate Barracuda ES ST3320620NS 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #: ST3320620NS Item #: N82E16822148215 $94.99 Logitech 967738-0403 Black USB Standard Deluxe 250 Keyboard - OEM Model #: 967738-0403 Item #: N82E16823126013 $8.99 SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail Model #: 226BW Item #: N82E16824001096 $319.99 Microsoft D66-00066 Black 3 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB + PS/2 Wired Optical Mouse - OEM Model #: D66-00066S Item #: N82E16826105185 $11.99 LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write Black SATA Model LH-20A1S - Retail Model #: LH-20A1S Item #: N82E16827106057 $34.99 Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM Model #: 66I-00715 Item #: N82E16832116202 $111.99 Subtotal: $1,697.87 |
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09-20-2007, 07:22 PM
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#16 | |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Monitors and reasoning sent by a friend:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824252008 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16824254024 regarding the one we were discussing above: Quote:
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09-20-2007, 07:42 PM
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#17 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Oh, and:
http://www.edimax.com/en/support_det...3D1&pd_id=1#01 I'm guessing this, which I bought last week and am extremely pleased with, is just plumb gonna not work with this Mobo/processor/64-bit Vista, eh? edit: a review on Newegg has this working with the XP drivers in Vista 64-bit. |
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09-21-2007, 01:02 AM
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#18 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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I know people who went 64 bit vista and got really frustrated with their computers with software/hardware issues, but lately it seems most who have gotten it are pretty happy so maybe it got fixed. But the way I see it is 2g of ram run about everything as fast as needs be today, and 32 bit OS has had a lot more support, so why borrow problem. If you are only using 2 g then the 64 bit OS is just there for future proofing, you wont really get much benefit from it now.
I agree with Freak about the wide screen. I would have truble going back also. Games are fantiastic on them, and I have not found anything yet that got streatched. with newer games you actually see more, which is really nice. Plus they are great to get your interface out of your face so you can enjoy a clear middle screen area. not sure on the quality issue, my 22 in is a Chimei, which is not a well know brand, although they make many of the screens for other manufatures. It would be considered an off brand but it has been perfect and I cant immagine a better picture. I am so into wide screen now I cant wait tell the bigger ones drop a few hundered more dollars and I think I will finally move to a twin monitor system As for keyboard and mouse, I personally use logitech. After having my first years ago dont think I will ever go back to microsoft. As for buttons on the side, how do you live without them???? I have a basic 3 button mouse at work and it drives me crazy. Kat |
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09-21-2007, 06:28 AM
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#19 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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On a forum note, Doc, please edit your posts if you remember to add something before a reply has been posted - thanks.
Regarding the monitor, your friend is right that the majority of 22" screens are TN panels, but I still put a fair amount of trust in brand power. The way I see it, why not get the best you can afford in a certain price bracket - particularly for something as key as a screen, on which you'll be much more likely to notice the slightest blemish, like a dead pixel. You can't guarantee no dead or stuck pixels on any screens, but I've heard very few complaints about this problem on Samsung panels - I can't say the same about 'budget' manufacturers. Don't forget that there's a $40 rebate on the Samsung, too. |
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09-21-2007, 03:39 PM
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#20 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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It's ordered! I went with the Samsung, and 32-bit Vista. Also ordered up World in Conflict and Bioshock (from Amazon)!
I'll be back in 2-5 days begging for help with putting it together!! I really appreciate your help; all in all, my entire purchase dropped by about 50 bucks and now includes a DVD burner, a better mobo (allegedly ), a better GFX card, a bigger/better monitor (by 3" and brand), a smaller but more suitable and better-branded PSU, not to mention the sweet mouse (not discussed on this forum but still part of the 'came out 50 bucks cheaper with better stuff' statement).I'm excited yet nervous. i'm kind of hoping my current PC fries soon (no signs of that happening) so that I don't get buyer's remorse, but c'est la vie. |
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09-21-2007, 04:30 PM
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#21 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Next Steps for Newbie
Ok, so I made my purchase and am awaiting arrival! The bottom of this post will have the complete parts list.
While I am waiting for my parts to come, I think that I can still get prepared. I don't have the first clue what exactly I should do, though. Run a search for "xxx drivers" for each piece of equipment and download them? I'm guessing I need to do at least the following first: CD/DVD Drive drivers Mobo - Latest BIOS Drivers whereas I have the suspicion, though I *need* to be corrected if wrong, that the following can all be downloaded to that PC once I have the hardware all plugged in and put away, Vista set up, and then taking things apart again to stick in the wireless card once I'm sure the PC is working fine and have Vista's firewall set up and have installed an anti-virus via CD: Latest Onboard Sound drivers (?? I did not purchase a separate sound card or new speakers, figuring I will do so in 6-12 months unless I forego a rotisserie cooker from my parents for Christmas) CPU Drivers Vid Card updated drivers Mouse/keyboard drivers if any are out there, though I bet this is a tertiary concern Monitor drivers LAN Drivers? or is this part of the BIOS because the LAN is part of the mobo? (same with onboard sound? or are there 'mobo drivers' separate from BIOS?) Thanks if you can provide any insight that would be useful to someone who's not especially technologically savvy (I'm not exactly an idiot at this, but I'm sure what is obvious to many of you isn't at all clear to me) EDIT: What about programs i can download that will help me analyze to make sure everything is working correctly? Temps, making sure all of the RAM is being recognized, etc? It looks like the Windows Vista Experience application might be a little bit useful here. The Parts List NZXT Zero Black/Silver Aluminum ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Retail Model #: Zero Item #: N82E16811146029 $149.99 TRIPP LITE SUPER7 7 Feet 7 Outlets 2350 Power Surge Protector - Retail Model #: SUPER7 Item #: N82E16812120300 $14.99 ASUS P5K LGA 775 Intel P35 ATX Intel Motherboard - Retail Model #: P5K Item #: N82E16813131180 $134.99 EVGA 320-P2-N815-AR GeForce 8800GTS 320MB 320-bit GDDR3 PCI Express x16 HDCP Ready SLI Supported Video Card - Retail Model #: 320-P2-N815-AR Item #: N82E16814130038 $294.99 X-Raypad THUNDER 8 T8 BK/Black Professional Mouse Pad - Retail Model #: T8 BK/Black Item #: N82E16817114135 $22.99 Verbatim 4.7GB 16X DVD+R 25 Packs Disc - Retail Model #: 95033 Item #: N82E16817130961 $10.25 Memorex 700MB 52X CD-R 100 Packs Disc - Retail Model #: 32024581 Item #: N82E16817131834 $15.99 CORSAIR CMPSU-620HX ATX12V v2.2 and EPS12V 2.91 620W Power Supply - Retail Model #: CMPSU-620HX Item #: N82E16817139002 $169.99 Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Kentsfield 2.4GHz LGA 775 Processor Model BX80562Q6600 - Retail Model #: BX80562Q6600 Item #: N82E16819115017 $279.99 G.SKILL 2GB (2 x 1GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ - Retail Model #: F2-6400CL5D-2GBNQ Item #: N82E16820231098 $69.99 Seagate Barracuda ES ST3320620NS 320GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s Hard Drive - OEM Model #: ST3320620NS Item #: N82E16822148215 $94.99 Logitech 967738-0403 Black USB Standard Deluxe 250 Keyboard - OEM Model #: 967738-0403 Item #: N82E16823126013 $8.99 SAMSUNG 226BW Black 22" 2 ms (GTG) DVI Widescreen LCD Monitor - Retail Model #: 226BW Item #: N82E16824001096 $319.99 Logitech G5 2-Tone 6 Buttons 1 x Wheel USB Wired Laser Mouse - Retail Model #: 931376-0403 Item #: N82E16826104191 $45.99 LITE-ON 20X DVD±R DVD Burner With 12X DVD-RAM Write Black SATA Model LH-20A1S - Retail Model #: LH-20A1S Item #: N82E16827106057 $34.99 Microsoft Windows Vista 32-Bit Home Premium for System Builders Single Pack DVD - OEM Model #: 66I-00715 Item #: N82E16832116202 $111.99 Subtotal: $1,781.10 Last edited by Doc7; 09-21-2007 at 04:42 PM. |
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09-21-2007, 05:19 PM
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#22 |
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Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Doncaster, UK
Posts: 3,563
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Doc, I've moved this post into your existing thread - please keep everything related to this build in here so we can see what decisions you've made / advice you've been given already.
In regard to your questions, the first thing I'd say is don't worry about an updated BIOS - it's something that only needs to be updated if you have specific need for new features, or support for newer CPUs. About drivers - your motherboard will come with a Vista driver CD, as will your video card. You can use these, or you can download the latest ones, which may or may not be more recent than the ones on the CDs. Optical drives don't require specific drivers, nor does the CPU. Your Keyboard and Mouse will have their own drivers to enable/assign various media buttons, although they will work out of the box with the basic Windows drivers. You can confirm your hardware with Belarc Advisor, and temperatures either in the BIOS or Speedfan in Windows. Checking the processor temperature is something I reccomend you do from BIOS at the first power on, if the temperature is good, you'll know you attached the heatsink correctly. Last edited by freakitchen; 09-21-2007 at 05:27 PM. |
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09-21-2007, 11:36 PM
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#23 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Ah, I see that you edited your post so I didn't realize an answer had been posted. Thanks
You answered my question that I came back here to ask: "Do I need to download everything on this page?" http://support.asus.com/download/dow...Language=en-us |
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09-22-2007, 02:40 PM
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#24 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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I just built my system and downladed nothing. I checked, but all my drivers that came with the system where the newest out there. Only down loading I have done is for Vista.
It should load up and start just fine with the software they provide with the parts. Once you have it up and running you can check out sites and see if there is something new you need. If they have new drivers out that support a Q6700 cpu and you are running a Q6600 without problems you dont need to download them, dont think I have ever upgraded MB drivers except when I was upgrading the CPU. Kat |
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09-22-2007, 06:25 PM
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#25 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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I went ahead and downloaded the available drivers for the graphics card, wireless adapter, monitor, CPU, and mouse. I figure it'll save me time from changing and installing from CDs : )
(before i make a foolish move by skipping the CDs, these downloads will typically include everything included on the CD, right?) Sorry if I sound like I am being dense, I don't want to sound like I'm not accepting the advice I'm being given. EDIT: What kind of temperature range should I be looking at, in order to know if I ought to order an after-market heatsink and fan for the CPU? Last edited by Doc7; 09-22-2007 at 07:01 PM. |
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09-23-2007, 11:18 PM
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#26 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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(posted twice in a row because the previous one is now un-editable due to age)
What software can I download to tell me if I am having the problem that is discussed (and fixed) in this thread? http://forums.techpowerup.com/showth...ght=P5k+Pencil I am quite anal and would like to first see the problem with my own eyes, and then use the same software to see that the solution worked. Thanks. EDIT: Do you agree that this would be a worthy step to take after a) actually completing my first build and getting things to power up correctly and install Windows Vista, b) set the memory voltage to 1.9 volts as I have seen reviews of NewEgg claiming is an absolutely necessary step (I found elsewhere screenshots of where this is done in the P5K's BIOS) but before step "d" which would be moving the PC back to my room for extensive testing (Read: playing games for a couple of weeks before deciding i'm ready to take the plunge into my first overclocking experience) Thanks so much! |
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09-24-2007, 10:11 AM
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#27 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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Well, I never set memory voltage to 1.9 in the bios and my system has been up and running perfectly for a month. So, unless it is something done automaticlly, I would say it is not absolutely necessary at all. I will have to take a look when I get home and see what it is set at.
I would recommend loading the drivers from the CD that came with the parts just because they usually have a little program that helps you pick what you need. I personally dont like downlaoding drivers because I historically grab the wrong ones  . If after using the CD you find the need to go online and get other drivers then that is when I would take that step. Kat |
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09-24-2007, 03:52 PM
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#28 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Katreat,
The 1.9V issue is something related to the specific memory I purchased. check out the reviews here, if you are so inclined: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820231098 |
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09-24-2007, 04:28 PM
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#29 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,044
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Well, thats the first I had heard of having to up the voltage without overclocking. There are quite a few post like this also though:
"ASUS compatible Pros: Plug and play with my ASUS P5K motherboard...recognizes the full 2GB Cons: none so far" So I would personally suggest you try it out first without messing with the voltage in the bios. But maybe that is because personally I am still leary of changing things in there Anyway, good luck with your new system and hope everything goes together without a hitch.Kat |
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09-24-2007, 05:48 PM
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#30 |
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Member (6 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 54
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Thanks...nothing in the mail yet, though I see everything has been packed up and possibly shipped. My CPU shipped from the NJ warehouse, which is where people have been reporting getting the G0 stepping units : )
Does putting a non-stock heatsink on this void the warranty on the CPU? If it does, I'll wait a few months (and learn everything i can about overclocking in the meantime, so i'm not just following directions like a lemming...boring!) Does anyone have a suggested partition strategy for just one HDD? I was thinking: 20 Gig Windows Vista 32-bit Partition, created during initial set up of PC (installation of Vista) After Vista is installed - create 4 more 20-gig partitions for a) Vista 32-bit paging file, and b) future OS (64-bit Vista, Vienna in 2010), and possibly a foray into Linux, which I've never tried. These partitions can also be used for paging files of the new OSes if I have only 1 or 2 non-Vista OSes installed. At this point I'll have something less than 220 gigs of HDD space left (because I don't start with that much really, right?). As I currently have a 120 gig HDD that I've had for 6 years, and have 60 gigs left, I think I can get away with something like this: Split the remaining space evenly, and install ALL applications (from Microsoft Office to Bioshock) in one partition, with all Word, Excel, music/movies, etc files in the other; Quicken and game-save/user-profile files if possible to store them on a separate partition from their respective applications. In a year or so time, drop another $100 on whatever the most cost-effective HDD available is, and use for backup + increased efficiency (swap file reorganization, etc.) Anything stupid here? Is my Vista partition big enough?? I see they recommend "40 gig hard drive with 15 gig available" ?? Last edited by Doc7; 09-24-2007 at 07:28 PM. |
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