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#1 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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Computer Component Aid Requested
Good day,
I recently experienced first-hand the result of using the same computer for too long, when my 533Mhz Celeron Compaq Presario (now a good seven years old) quite literally crashed and burned last night. I've long desired to build a computer of my own (not just for the added benefit of being able to customize the parts, but the experience and practical knowledge it would allow me to obtain), thus, here I am (having been recommended to this site by a friend). I currently have a $1000 budget (give or take a hundred dollars) and am interested in creating a computer more skewed towards media-centric activities than work (for instance, use of digital-image creation applications such as Photoshop and ZBrush, and some moderate computer gaming). I have little practical knowledge of computer hardware, although, as a freelance graphic and web-designer, I am familiar with the software side of things. Having said as much, I am particularly eager to receive some advice in regards to safety precautions I should take when attempting to build the computer and any tutorials that may be available for first-time builders (as, frankly, I cannot afford to screw this up). Insofar as parts are concerned, I have spent a few hours in casual perusal of this site, ExtremeTech and Newegg, compiling a list of components of whose compatibility I remain dubious. Aid in that regard would be appreciated. The following are those component pieces I must acquire new in order to build a functional computer. If I am missing anything, kindly make note of such and I will amend the list. -----CASE: Antec Sonata III ($109) -----MOTHERBOARD: eVGA nForce 680i SLi ($175) -----CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo - E6300 ($185) -----HARD DRIVE: Seagate 7200.9 120GB ($58) -----RAM: Kingston HyperX 2GB PC2 6400 DDR2 ($130) -----OPTICAL 01: Sony DRU-830A ($58) -----OPTICAL 02: Ultra Products MD2 5.25" Bay ($30) -----SOUND CARD: Sound Blaster Audigy 2 Value ($53) -----VIDEO CARD: XFX GeForce 7600 GT ($109) The following are those components (peripherals, actually) I would like to replace, however, as they are not required (I already have something to use in lieu of such) I can cut them from the project if they take up funds I could otherwise use more productively elsewhere. -----KEYBOARD: Microsoft Comfort Curve 2000 ($15) -----MOUSE: Logitech G5 Laser ($44) That places the current total at $966.00 (USD). I do not require a new monitor, any sort of audio peripheral (speakers or headphones), nor OS (I currently have a copy of Windows XP, though if Vista is preferable for a new machine, please leave word of such). The prices appended to the list are courtesy of ExtremeTech, as taken from a list posted roughly two months ago. As such, I cannot be sure of their present-day accuracy. Any aid in determining the compatibility of these parts and/or finding better ones would be greatly appreciated. I am particularly interested in acquiring a better GPU (preferably something from the 8800 line, although, the prices being rather prohibitive, I can live without it). Thank you for your time. |
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#2 |
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Kickin' it
Staff
Premium Member
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Welcome to PCMech.
ExtremeTech's list is pretty good, but I have a few tweaks. No need to spend the premium on an SLI motherboard when you don't need SLI. We recommend the Asus P5K. The Core 2 Duo E6750 is now the best bang for the buck CPU, just a few dollars more. I'd go for a larger hard drive. The 320GB drives are at a good price point per GB. Stick with a SATA Seagate. Kingston memory is not as great as it once was. Try Corsair instead. Check out a LiteOn DVDRW that is SATA and comes with Nero. Drop that Ultra dashboard. You can add a media reader for a 3.5" bay if you need it. Skip the sound card and use onboard sound. It is good for most. And you can add a card later if you decide you need it.
__________________
Fold for PCMech: Team 13761 |
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#3 |
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Member (8 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 167
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heres a setup that you could go with that is just in your price range (not including keyboard & mouse)
ASUS P5K SE ATX LGA775 P35 DDR2 PCI-E16 2PCI 3PCI-E1 SATA2 Sound GBLAN Motherboard $128.80 Corsair XMS2 TWIN2X2048-6400 2GB 2X1GB PC2-6400 DDR2-800 CL 5-5-5-18 240PIN DIMM Dual Channel Memory $134.99 Liteon LH-20A1L DVD+RW 20X8X16 DVD-RW 20X6X16 DL 8X SATA Lightscribe Black DVD Writer OEM $43.22 Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB SATA2 3GB/S 7200RPM 16MB Cache NCQ Hard Drive $93.83 ASUS 16X DVD-ROM Drive SATA Retail Box W/ Black & Beige Faceplates $28.12 EVGA E-GEFORCE 8600GT 540MHZ 256MB 1.4GHZ GDDR2 PCI-E VGA DVI-I HDTV Out DIRECTX10 Video Card $119.12 Intel Core 2 Duo E6750 Dual Core Processor LGA775 Conroe 2.66GHZ 1333FSB 4MB Retail $229.99 Corsair HX520 CMPSU-520HX 520W ATX Triple 12V 40A Continuous 24PIN ATX Modular 120MM Power Supply Coolermaster CAC-T05 Centurion 5 Aluminum ATX Tower Case 5X5.25 1X3.5 4X3.5INT SILVER-BLACK No PS $65.62 YOUR TOTAL $968.68 (Not Including Rebates) Priced from NCIX.com |
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#4 | |||||||
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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Quote:
Second, may I inquire why I "don't need SLI"? I'm still a trifle bit hazy on just what SLI is (correct me if I'm mistaken, please) but I was given to understand it is merely the term nVidia uses in referring to a computer set-up that is utilizing two of their GPUs at the same time. Is that correct? I was looking to create a computer that is easily upgradeable performance-wise for at least a year or two, thus, acquiring an SLI-compatible motherboard seemed like a good thing (again, I don't know much about hardware), but if the P5K can just as easily support upgrading without burning a hole in my wallet, I'd quickly spring for that. Essentially, I suppose, my question is this: can the P5K handle expected future upgrades? Quote:
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------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Alright, so that puts my revised list of components at the following: --------CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo - E6750 ($229.99) --------HARD DRIVE: Seagate Barracuda 7200.10 320GB SATA2 ($93.83) --------RAM: Corsair XMS2 2x1GB ($134.99) --------OPTICAL 01: Liteon LH-20A1L DVD+RW ($43.22) --------OPTICAL 02: ASUS 16x SATA DVD-ROM ($28.12) --------VIDEO CARD: EVGA e-GeForce 8600 GT ($119.12) --------POWER SUPPLY: Corsair HX520 520W ($104.99) TOTAL= $754.26 REMAINING FUNDS = $245.74 (plus a hundred dollars, if necessary) The list of disputed components (at least, until someone is kind enough to answer my question) at: -----MOTHERBOARD: eVGA nForce 680i SLi ($175) -----OR----- -----MOTHERBOARD: ASUS P5K ($128) And the list of parts I need to research first as follows: -----CASE: Antec Sonata III ($109) -----OR----- -----CASE: Coolermaster CAC-T05 Centurion 5 ($65) Thank you, both RazR and Alaron, for your advice thus far, I genuinely appreciate it. That much aside, I would similarly appreciate any continued aid you can grant me, both in settling on those final components (should I spring for the SLI motherboard or not, and which case is better/why?) and any sage advice you might have for a first time builder (especially in regards to safety precautions, both for myself and the parts). Oh, one last thing, thanks for the link to NCIX, RazR. I was just about to inquire if anyone was aware of any other reputable online retailers, apart from Newegg. Seeing as I reside a good 93 miles from the nearest electronic store, I had planned to purchase everything online. Again, thank you. |
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#5 |
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Member (8 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 167
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i would just stick with the P5K motherboard,not saying that the eVGA nforce 680i is a bad motherboard
but you honestly won't need to use the other PCI slot for SLI on a side note, they have done benchmarkings for SLI and you only start to see a change in frames per second (FPS) once you start getting into the high resolutions on usually, those resolutions are mainly acheived on 24"+ monitors/tvs if you did decide to go SLI, you would be spending more money on a higher wattage power supply, and an addition video card in my opinion, just stick with one video card as for the case, it is solely up to you, i just tossed out a suggestion you should choose a case that you feel that you want, it should catch your eye it should represent how you want it to look for this build, make sure the case : - an ATX Mid Tower or ATX full tower (full tower will be a bit more pricey) - no power supply installed *EDIT* heres a tutorial for the LGA775 DIY guide on peicing your computer together, if you plan on building it yourself http://www.hardwarezone.com/guides/intel-socketT/?pg=6 Last edited by RazR; 09-29-2007 at 09:14 PM. |
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#6 | ||
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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I'd say that's about it. Once I choose a case I'll order those parts and get to work. Thanks for the views, replies and PMs. Lastly, I'd just like to say how sincerely grateful I am for the tutorial link, RazR. That's perfect. |
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#7 |
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Member (3 bit)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 4
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Time for a quick update and some more questions...
First, I made some changes to the system after spending some time looking around component retailer sites and chancing across some good bargains. As such, I currently have the following: ---CASE: Lian-Li PC7S ($106) ---MOTHERBOARD: nVIDIA 680i SLI-Ready ($169) ---POWER SUPPLY: OCZ GameXStream 700w ($95) ---CPU: Intel Core 2 Duo - E6750 ($195) ---CPU FAN: Arctic Cooling - Freezer 7 Pro ($19) ---HARD DRIVE: Seagate Barracude 7200.10 320GB ($85) ---RAM: Corsair XMS2 - 2x1GB ($67) ---OPTICAL 01: Lite-On LH-20A1L DVD+RW ($37) ---OPTICAL 02: ASUS 16x SATA DVD-ROM ($20) ---VIDEO CARD: nVIDIA 8800 GTS 320MB ($220) TOTAL = $1013 As you can see, I barely went over my one-thousand dollar limit while still managing to create a relatively high-end computer. The choice of case was made, as RazR suggested, for aesthetic reasons (and after some suggestions from other board members and on other forums). I decided to spring for the SLI MoBo after all, as I do plan to upgrade to a SLI system at some point in time. What's more, I figured it was better to have the option to do so available, even if that falls through. The power supply was changed from the original Corsair after consulting the Recommended Power Supply's thread at this forum (OCZ was ranked in the number one spot, far above Corsair). What's more, I got the power supply brand-new and still in it's original packaging from a friend whose son didn't want it, and for a steal at that. Another great steal, that saved me from going vastly over-budget, was the 8800 GTS, which I likewise picked up from a disgruntled friend, one who was taking apart his HTPC and didn't know what to do with the card he deemed "too large". Well, for $220 I was more than happy to take it (as it is infinitely superior to the 8600 GT that was originally occupying its present position of honor). The only other change is the CPU cooler, which I added after reading some reviews about the stock cooler/heatsink on the chip and its ability to cope with overclocked systems. It was the most highly recommended air-cooler and I was relieved to find it is also incredibly affordable (a mere $20). That does it for the system update and moves me on to the questions... ...there are an awful lot of rather horrendous (and abrupt) power-outages in my neck of the woods (a literal statement, as I live a good 93 miles from "civilization"), notably during the winter. Taking that into account, the good folk at XtremeSystems forum recommended I consider acquiring a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) to deal with that, preferably a "continuous" one. Unfortunately, beyond that, they had little in the way of suggestions concerning such to offer. Having said that, I turn to you guys. 1) From personal experience, what UPS, if any, would you recommend? 2) What sort of voltage (or whatever they measure them by) would be necessary to maintain a system such as my own? Any aid in this matter would, as always, be greatly appreciated. In short, thanks. |
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