System Spec Opinions #2

[ChappyEight]

Okay, here's what I've got so far after the advice from Cricket. This configuration puts me in the $1200 range. I'd like to trim it down a few hundred dollars if possible w/out changing the motherboard and hopefully not losing too much performance overall. I figure the mobo, cpu, and psu are not very fun to upgrade/swap out later so I'm hoping to keep those as good as possible and maybe sacrifice elsewhere.

I'm sure there are equivalent parts that are less expensive, I just don't know what they are. Let me know what you think.

Case - NZXT Apollo ($68) - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/62..._-_Orange.html PSU - SilverStone Strider ST60F 600W, modular ($110) - http://www.frozencpu.com/products/50...SLi_Ready.html MOBO - Asus Striker Extreme ($291) - http://www.ewiz.com/detail.php?p=MB-...179cc4f35a5f61 CPU - Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 ($280) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...tel-_-19115018 Memory - 2GB (1GBx2) DDR2-667 DIMM ($50) - http://www.crucial.com/store/mpartsp...9AC589A5CA7304 HDD - Western Digital 500GB 3.5" internal ($92) - http://www.etech4sale.com/Western_Di...id-155598.html Optical - Lite-On LH-20A1H-186 w/LightScribe ($35) - http://www.directron.com/lh20a1h185bk.html GPU - ASUS 8800GT 512MB 600MHz ($275) - http://www.xpcgear.com/88gt512hd.html

Maybe there isn't a good solution for what I'm trying to do. But I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks again.

[kram 2.0]

Keep in mind that you have forgotten the operating system. As for the power supply unit, I'm still not sold on modular units. Take a close look at the Antec 650W Unit - it's currently on sale, so if you don't mind playing the MIR game, you're in good shape there.

Besides that, I'm not too sure you want to trim down anywhere else. The motherboard is certainly the first place I would cut down, but you did mention you are fairly adamant about keeping it.

kram

[ChappyEight]

Thanks for the suggestions, I actually already have the OS.

For argument's sake, is there a mobo out there that won't be totally obsolete in 2 yrs. at a more reasonable price?

Thanks again.

[Cricket]

Originally Posted by ChappyEight For argument's sake, is there a mobo out there that won't be totally obsolete in 2 yrs. at a more reasonable price?

Nope. 2 years is a long time as far as computers go and there'll be newer more advanced things out before then and that will make anything that came out earlier "obsolete".

Another thing to remember is if you're buying all your parts from different vendors you have to also include the cost of shipping in the total for the build. The more places you buy from the more shipping you'll have to pay.

And you're getting a OEM processor so you'll need to buy a third party heatsink/fan unit too.

What will you be using this computer for?

Cricket

[GodofCats]

No offense Cricket, just curious, but why isn't the fan included inbox good enough to use?

[Cricket]

Originally Posted by GodofCats No offense Cricket, just curious, but why isn't the fan included inbox good enough to use?

OEM CPUs come with no heatsink...it's just the CPU, nothing else.

Cricket

[ChappyEight]

Cricket, thanks for the shipping advice. I hadn't really thought of that.

What's the difference with an OEM processor and a different one? Honestly, I am very green still and did not realize there was such distinction.

This computer will be used mostly for architectural drafting/3-dimensional building modeling, Photoshop, light to mid level gaming, and of course internet, word processing, etc.

Again, I am trying to be completely open-minded about all of this because you all most definitely know better than myself what hardware would work best. So I am open to any and all suggestions.

My reasoning for such high-end components is that I wont' be able to afford another computer in 2 years time. So I was hoping I could get a solid base to where I could just update components as necessary. This thinking may be incorrect, I just don't know.

[Lespaul20]

An OEM CUP is only the CPU sent to you by itself with a shorter warranty. A retail includes all packing you would get if you went to a brick and mortar store. (CUP, HSF, Documentation, longer warranty)

[Katreat]

Just my thoughts, but you picked a mobo that is high end because it was developed specifically for gaming, SLI, and OC'ing. From what you have posted that is not your primary use. Further, in general SLI mobos are a bit behind the curve on being at the top of the technology list because the newest intel chip sets, the P 35 and X 38 (? - not sure of the name) which run at 1333 FSB do not allow SLI. There will probably be a replacement for the 680i chip in the near future because it is getting a bit dated.

I would save a bit on the mobo and go with a P5K which uses the newest P35 chip set. It does not allow SLI but is a very powerful and quality board. SLI will make a computer faster, but only if you are using and paying for two of the top end video cards right from the start. The next generation video card will likely be better than the last in SLI and generally if you are on a budget you will be money ahead just upgrading when you need to speed things up. The one exception to this is if you are using a very large monitor. SLI shines when working with very large monitors with high resolutions. But that benefit comes with a big price.

As to the future you can never stay on top of the technology curve without frequent rebuilds. What you want is something that has a couple of upgrades in it to make it last as long as possible. You will likely be able to do a video upgrade, cpu upgrade, and add ram before your computer becomes out dated. Generally, you can skip a few generations of technology an be fine for computing power. But if you need to be right at the top 2 years is a long time with most technology advances on a 6 month recycle rate.

Kat

[ChappyEight]

Thank you Kat. That's exactly the sort of questions I had. I will definitely move to a P5K board. I have noticed that there are multiple variations of the P5K. Which one is the most bang for the buck?

How do I know if I'm buying something retail or OEM? It seems like it's not always mentioned on the product page.

[Cricket]

Most times if the product is OEM it will be mentioned somewhere in the product description.

OEM parts generally come in a anti-static bag with no documentation but it may come with a driver CD. These parts generally don't have a manufacturer warranty, only what the retailer is willing to give. The exception is hard drives, OEM hard drives do have factory warranties.

Retail parts generally come in a pretty box with all documentation and drivers discs. They'll have normal length warranties (1 to 5 years depending on the part and the company).

A OEM CPU isn't recommended unless you're going to overclock (which voids all warranties). It comes with nothing...no warranty, no box, no heatsink fan unit...only the plastic it's in. A Retail CPU comes in a box and is cradled in a protective plastic shell. You get a 3 year warranty and it comes with a proper heatsink fan unit. To keep the 3 year warranty you must use the supplied heatsink and thermal pad.

Cricket

[Lespaul20]

Originally Posted by ChappyEight How do I know if I'm buying something retail or OEM? It seems like it's not always mentioned on the product page.

Newegg will list it in there title. I would assume it's retail unless it explicitly states otherwise.

[Katreat]

I used a basic P5K on my newest build and I am happy with it. All of the other P5Ks offer special features which you either need or want, I cant really suggest which one to get.

The only one that you want to avoid is the one that uses DDR3 ram. DDR3 is the ram of the future but it offers few advantages at this time and has a very expensive. Right now about the only advantage it has is for extream OC'ers who want the speed.

OEM is just the item. On some items like hard drives and operating systems OEM is fine. Motherboards come with wires you need and an OS just needs to be loaded. On opticals OEM is ok also if you already have the software you need. If you where replacing an broken burner with a new one, OEM could save you a bit of cash since you already have the burniing software and wires. However, the difference in cost on these items are small so buying a retail burner might get you some upgraded software for almost no cost. On MBs, CPUs, and Video card it is usually best to stay away from OEM because you probably want the warrenty, instructions, heat sinks, hardware, etc. For these parts OEM is really for the professional who is buyiing in volume to build multipal systems.

Kat