Debating an upgrade.

[mbco2001]

Believe it or not, I most likely have had this discussion before, but keep having things come up. Last year I wanted to build a newer pc at tax-return time, but my dog-gone transmission went out in my car. Let me start by saying I aim to be able to play Star Wars: the Old Republic. I dont do ALOT of gaming, but would like to have the ability to try a new one without worrying about if my PC can handle it. With that said, of course, I would love to salvage anything I can from my current pc. Its working pretty flawlessly for what I use it for (browsing, video conversions, etc). But, its getting pretty ancient. Everything I can remember is below

ThermalTake Tsunami Dream case (I have removed the outer door)
DFI Lanparty Ultra-D NF4 motherboard
CPU Type AMD Athlon 64, 1800 MHz (9 x 200) 3000+
Thermalright XP120 heatsink (massive)
GSKill DDR400 PC3200 RAM 2GB (dual channel, 1gb sticks)
Nvidia Geforce GT240 video card
Enermax Coolergiant 485W power supply.
2 IDE hard drives (1 for storage , 1 windows)
1 SATA hard disk for storage
ASUS DVD Writer


Obviously, I'm pretty sure I will be pointed towards a new motherboard and new processor which is understood. I'm am very much so leaning towards eliminating all IDE drives, as the cables are bulky. Im also leaning towards a newer case, because the location of the video cards to the hard drive cage is very small in room. The video card currently sits over the chipset fan. The location of the PCI-e also doesnt allow a longer video card because of the location of the hard disk cage.

So, I'm basically taking a stab here and saying that to start with (before I even pick anything out) that I will need

New case
New Motherboard
New CPU
New Video Card
New RAM

I'm assuming the PSU will be enough and obviously, the optical drive I can spare. What are you guys' opinion on moving completely to SATA and not using the IDE drives? That itself will present me having to buy another copy of windows also, because I'm honestly not sure if I even have the serial number or cd anymore. This system was built just about 7-9 years ago. I know I want to take advantage of dual-core, maybe even quad core if not too much.

One thing I do need to say, is I have ZERO experience with ram timings, or just about anything in bios (other than how to set boot orders, etc). This PC was literally built by a friend who originally had it overclocked until a couple issues arose and I believe we put it back to stock clocks or whatever. But Im not completely newb to it. I know how to install CPU's, thermal paste, all that good stuff. So getting the parts installed wont be much of an issue, rather "setting it up" that I may need to learn a thing or two.

Anyhow, I would say my budget is probably going to be around $600. May or may not get it done there. Just gauging my possibilities right now.

[mbco2001]

Just realized I can clone to windows xp disk (IDE disk) to my current sata drive (or new one) and I just used a program to find the key. Also read that I can re-activate it after the new board. So that eliminates having to buy windows again.

[mbco2001]

These are just some Things I found

CPU : Newegg.com - Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000 BX80623I52500
MOBO : Newegg.com - GIGABYTE GA-Z68XP-UD3P LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM Newegg.com - CORSAIR DOMINATOR GT 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model CMT4GX3M2A1866C9

[glc]

I think you need to look at a COMPLETE replacement.

[Nuclear Krusader]

Most definitely, and with Windows 7.

[mbco2001]

Im going to do just that. I think Im just going to take out a loan for $1500. So that will be my limit. You guys think that'll be enough to get a very good system rolling? Should I start a new thread with the parts Im looking at or keep it here?

[glc]

How about the $1150 range?

Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case

Newegg.com - SeaSonic M12II 620 Bronze 620W ATX12V V2.3 / EPS 12V V2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply

Newegg.com - ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard with UEFI BIOS

Newegg.com - Intel Core i5-2550K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623i52550K

Newegg.com - CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Low Profile Desktop Memory Model CML8GX3M2A1600C9

Newegg.com - Intel 520 Series Cherryville SSDSC2CW060A310 2.5" 60GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)

Newegg.com - HITACHI Deskstar 7K1000.D HDS721075DLE630 (0F13179) 750GB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive

Newegg.com - LITE-ON DVD Burner - Bulk 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model iHAS124-04 - CD / DVD Burners

Newegg.com - SAPPHIRE 100314-3L Radeon HD 6870 1GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card

Newegg.com - Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 64-bit - Operating Systems

[mbco2001]

My list seems to match alot of the things you have listed. I am going to compare the rest versus what you have listed and go from there.

Motherboard: Same
Memory: Same
Processor: Same
Hard disks: I was pretty open here

Power supply I had down the Corsair Enthusiast TX750. You think the SeaSonic is a better selection?

The case I had in mind was the Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Full tower. Im concerned about a mid-tower being a hindrance sort of like the one I have now.
Newegg.com - Antec Twelve Hundred V3 Black Steel ATX Full Tower Unbeatable Gaming Case

Regarding the GFX card - would you suggest 2 of those going for a crossfire setup (which I know nothing about of course) or do you think I should just get one? I would hate to get one now and then want one down the road and not be able to get it. But thats highly unlikely that I wouldnt be able to find one. Whats the difference in crossfire and SLI?

I listed what I had wrote down versus what you listed just for comparisons purposes, not to try any "counters" or whatever because you guys have TONS more knowledge about this stuff than me. I appreciate your help thusfar also.

[glc]

Okay - I chose the SSD for using in SRT with the Z68 chipset to cache the spin drive. I chose the Hitachi drive for value, WD's are priced sky high right now due to the Thailand flooding last year. Reuse your existing SATA drive for additional storage. I chose the Seasonic PSU because it's modular, a lot less case clutter. Seasonic makes the higher end Corsair PSU's. If you want a Corsair PSU, look at the HX series. Choose whatever case you want, I suggested that Thermaltake because it's an excellent value. I would not bother with Crossfire - if you want a stronger graphics card you have the room in your budget to get a better single card such as a 6950 or 6970. The mid-high range 7000 series cards aren't out yet.

[mbco2001]

How much difference is it between setting up ssd drives vs normal ones? I have no experience with them. I also don't even know what a modular power supply is.

WOuld you rather go for two of the same video cards or a single one that is upper echelon ?

[mbco2001]

Just read up on modular power supplies.that is awesome for cord management. Definitely want to go that route

[glc]

AnandTech - Intel Z68 Chipset & Smart Response Technology (SSD Caching) Review

ONE higher end video card is ALWAYS better than Crossfire or SLI.

[mbco2001]

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814150517

WOuld you recommend that one?

[glc]

No, we do not recommend XFX.

Newegg.com - HIS IceQ Turbo H697QT2G2M Radeon HD 6970 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card with Eyefinity

[mbco2001]

Everything looks good. I did a little more browsing around on newegg and am thinking about switching the case to a COOLER MASTER HAF 932. Its a $20 drop in price and has much better reviews.

[David M]

Cases are more a matter of personal preference in what you think looks good and some minor features here and there. They all pretty much work.

[glc]

The HAF 932 is an excellent case.

[mbco2001]

This list of components falls right under my $1500 budget at about $1450. I will see about the money tomorrow and hopefully get the parts ordered.

[mbco2001]

Will I need an aftermarket cooler for the Processor? And is there a big difference in the 2500 and 2550 i5?

[glc]

To run at stock speeds, you will not need an aftermarket cooler. If you want to play with overclocking, you will. That's something you could get later.

The 2500K and 2550K are both multiplier-unlocked, to facilitate overclocking. The 2550K is 0.1 GHz faster and has the onboard video disabled.

[mbco2001]

Thanks for the reply. Order has been submitted. Hated to hit "send" but hopefully I'll like the finished product. (and hopefully Newegg wont send me bad stuff like that have been doing to me before).

[mbco2001]

Alrighty! Got all parts today but the dvd drive. Temporarily stole the one out my old pc. Got everything installed and hooked up (tons of wires). Let me say, I LOVE this case. Its huge and everything about it is great. Now on to the questions. I have the PSU fan pointed DOWN. THere is a cutout for it in the case and the case manual showed a diagram that pretty much said TO point the fan down.

First off, GLC, IM taking a guess here but I'd assume the SSD drive is there to combo with the Hitachi drive to take advantage of the "Smart response technology"? I think I read in the user manual somewhere that the drives have to be in an array? I could be wrong. I've never setup a raid array.

I havent installed windows yet because I dont want to get too far ahead of myself. The pc booted fine, all lights and fans are working. As of this moment, the new pc is quieter than my old one (even with 2 230mm fans!). After scanning the BIOS for stuff I know about (boot order, etc), I exited out and got the NTLDR missing message. Im almost 100% sure thats because the hard disk doesnt have windows yet.

So basically Im checking to make sure there is nothing I need to do before I load windows? And as far as the SRT mode with the SSD is there anything I need to do there also?

And oh by the way, the voltages looked pretty good in BIOS too.

[glc]

How to set up SRT *should* be in the motherboard manual. In a nutshell, the controller mode needs to be in RAID, not AHCI or IDE, the RST software needs to be installed, and the caching set up with the software.

[mbco2001]

Should I load windows onto the ssd to start with? Or would I change the controller first then load windows? Or dose it matter? Lol. I'm currently at work so I'm takin all this in ,for when I get home it will be the first thing I jump on.

[glc]

You need to read up on it. You definitely do NOT install Windows on the SSD.

[mbco2001]

Well, I'm on the newly built computer. I have not installed any drivers yet though because I am quite unsure if I have the raid array setup right and am not overly positive I am using the SRT or not. Windows was installed on the Hitachi (the non-ssd). I setup Raid on the hitachi and SSD in a Raid0 configuration. Whats rather odd is the size is 112gb even though the Hitachi is much larger.

Will I be able to use the other portion of the Hitachi drive for storage? If so, how would I do that?

Also, with the previous computer, I had ITESmart Guardian that was autoloaded at startup and anytime I wanted to check the temps, I could simply open that up. Are there any programs like such for this setup?

[glc]

No, you do NOT set up a RAID 0!

Have you read up on how to set up SRT yet? You are going about it ALL WRONG.

You do NOT create an array - you simply set the SATA controller to RAID mode. You then install Windows on the HARD DRIVE.

Refer to page 4-22 in the motherboard manual for what to do next.

[mbco2001]

I have ZERO experience with this. All my previous SATA drives were used in IDE mode. I'll try what you stated.

[mbco2001]

Thanks GLC, that worked as far as the acceleration is concerned.


Would you recommend running Memtest or anything like that to double check the components? I tend to save boxes for weeks before throwing them away until I know the parts are good.

[glc]

Several cycles of memtest sure wouldn't hurt.

I have ZERO experience with this.

Most people haven't. That's why you have to read the manual!