Fixing my desktop.

[glc]

We can't assume you will even be fixing it - until we see if the bare config will start up on the table.

[Zerk]

$15 Drive with the promo code goes off sale today and back to $18 free shipping.

LITE-ON Model iHAS124-04 DVD Burner - Bulk Black - Newegg.com

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc We can't assume you will even be fixing it - until we see if the bare config will start up on the table.

Have to wait on that. I have to work double shifts. I will try ASAP.

[karapet]

Originally Posted by Zerk $15 Drive with the promo code goes off sale today and back to $18 free shipping. LITE-ON Model iHAS124-04 DVD Burner - Bulk Black - Newegg.com

Thank you. I am ordering it right now.

[DGWalker]

Originally Posted by glc You need to look inside. Brands and models aren't in that link. You also don't know if the seller swapped any components before selling it. Most important are the motherboard and power supply.

Be aware that off-the-shelf PCs from Cyberpower come with substandard PSUs, their house brand called XtremeGear. This should be replaced as soon as possible.

[glc]

I just found one of your posts on this in the Cyberpower forums. My (limited) research so far has shown them to have identical model numbers as Apevia units, which are garbage. Have you been able to find out the OEM yet? Have you looked up the UL "E" number?

It's quite possible this is what may be preventing the system from starting up, but that can't really be determined till the board is out on the table.

[karapet]

Originally Posted by DGWalker Be aware that off-the-shelf PCs from Cyberpower come with substandard PSUs, their house brand called XtremeGear. This should be replaced as soon as possible.

It is extreme Gear, I could see that logo in the left top corner of the PSU

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc I just found one of your posts on this in the Cyberpower forums. My (limited) research so far has shown them to have identical model numbers as Apevia units, which are garbage. Have you been able to find out the OEM yet? Have you looked up the UL "E" number? It's quite possible this is what may be preventing the system from starting up, but that can't really be determined till the board is out on the table.

I am waiting for the sata-usb connector to test the HDD on my laptop. Anyway,I have to wit for the weekend, when I will have more of free time to test mobo.

[DOS_equis]

That rig looks pretty sad right now. I bet the shipper didn't take the extra steps to make sure it was padded properly. The busted corner proves it.

The pair of wires in the first batch of pics is the cooling fan to the AIO water cooling radiator. It should be connected to a 3 pin fan header on either the cooler pump/ heatsink assy. or to a fan header on the mobo. It looks like it was ripped out. Since it looks like there was a fair amount of violence going on inside of the case there is a good chance that the mobo is shorted out or a connector/ smd component is damaged/ ripped off of the board. The HDD disappearance could be due to a damaged PCB on the drive itself or the power connector. Either way the drive is trashed unless you can get the exact PCB for that drive and swap it out. It is similar to what HDD recovery companies do to bad hard drives sometimes. They will buy an old drive just for the controller card. I don't know if this machine has multiple HDD's in a RAID setup. If so you need to take careful notes and pictures as to what ports the HDD's are connected to and reconnect them the same way. Otherwise you will have problems getting it to boot.

The MSI board (or just MSI for that matter) is not a good one. It would have been better if it was Gigabyte or EVGA. X58 is finicky (I own a number of them) but if you have the patience to deal with tweaking it then it will be fine. They were mainly troublesome in the RAM area where a stick would disappear from the system during a boot. Windows would recognize that it had say 6GB of RAM but it would say that 4GB was useable, etc. It was usually voltages or timings causing this.

Good luck with this basket case. You should get a full refund on this from the seller. He didn't pack it well IMO and the item is not in the condition of what you were buying. It's a shame that this happens. It would be nice is if eBay provided a tutorial on how to pack certain items up for shipment and make new sellers view it so people are more educated. It takes more than just tossing the item in the bottom of the box, sprinkling a handful of foam peanuts over the top and sealing it up. It seems a lot of sellers don't know how to pack things up properly because I have found a few of them (not by choice though).

I had this same thing happen on a 22" LCD TV I bought. It wasn't working (bought it that way because I knew what to do to fix it) but it was in good cosmetic condition (at least until he packed it up). After UPS played tackle football with it on its way from California to Florida the corner of the TV bezel poked through the box and cracked it. I showed him pictures and all. He was willing to give me a refund but only after I paid for the return shipping. I wasn't paying for anything since it wasn't my fault he didn't know what he was doing when packing it up (I was a bit more tactful than that when I talked to him) . He insisted that it was packed good and refused to cover the return shipping since he was going to lose money (not my fault). I had to get eBay involved and they finally emailed me a return shipping label. It doesn't sound like you will have to go this far with it.

DOS equis

[karapet]

Originally Posted by DOS_equis That rig looks pretty sad right now. I bet the shipper didn't take the extra steps to make sure it was padded properly. The busted corner proves it.

He packed it nice and in original box with original packing material, the damage happened in Los Angeles post office transit facility. It fell off the truck and they for some reason repacked it to a completely different box x2 the size, but I guess it was damaged already at that point.

Originally Posted by DOS_equis The pair of wires in the first batch of pics is the cooling fan to the AIO water cooling radiator. It should be connected to a 3 pin fan header on either the cooler pump/ heatsink assy. or to a fan header on the mobo. It looks like it was ripped out.

I can't find that 3pin fan header on either the cooler pump/ heatsink assy or on the mobo. Even if I will find it, would I be able to reconnect it or the connector on the wires is missing now?

Originally Posted by DOS_equis Since it looks like there was a fair amount of violence going on inside of the case there is a good chance that the mobo is shorted out or a connector/ smd component is damaged/ ripped off of the board. The HDD disappearance could be due to a damaged PCB on the drive itself or the power connector. Either way the drive is trashed unless you can get the exact PCB for that drive and swap it out. It is similar to what HDD recovery companies do to bad hard drives sometimes. They will buy an old drive just for the controller card. I don't know if this machine has multiple HDD's in a RAID setup. If so you need to take careful notes and pictures as to what ports the HDD's are connected to and reconnect them the same way. Otherwise you will have problems getting it to boot.

If the HDD is bad, I'll just toss it.

[DOS_equis]

Originally Posted by karapet He packed it nice and in original box with original packing material, the damage happened in Los Angeles post office transit facility. It fell off the truck and they for some reason repacked it to a completely different box x2 the size, but I guess it was damaged already at that point. I can't find that 3pin fan header on either the cooler pump/ heatsink assy or on the mobo. Even if I will find it, would I be able to reconnect it or the connector on the wires is missing now? If the HDD is bad, I'll just toss it.

Yeah OK I see what you are saying about the damaged box. That would piss me off bad if I saw that after the anticipation of ordering something like that.

The only way to fix the original fan connector (assuming that it has a standard 3 pin plug on the end) is a soldering iron and some liquid rosin flux. I have repaired stuff like that in the past by stripping back the wires, tinning them with solder and soldering the pins back on the ends after freeing them out of the plug with a small razor knife or pin. The easiest way for you to fix that is just replacing the fan with another 120mm fan (or whatever size they used). There should be a header on the mobo or on the pump like I said. You might have to look for a white or black fan plug that is stuck on the mobo with no wires. What brand of cooler is that? I seriously doubt this is the case but the wires might have been directly attached to the heatsink/ pump. It will suck big time if that is the case though. You would have to replace it or somehow open it up and resolder the wires back where they go.

On the HDD, you might want to look for the Windows serial key on the case or with whatever documentation that came with it. You will need that when you go to reinstall Windows on it. Don't know if you have OS discs either but you obviously will need it (more than likely OEM version). They might have done something like Dell and HP do with the HDD where they installed a recovery partition on it for the OS. If the drive is dead you will have to deal with getting the OS on the new drive. I have a 32bit copy of Windows 7 OEM that I can burn for you if you want. Your key should work on that if the key was for a 32 bit system. You might be able to call or email cyberpower and see if you can get a set of replacement discs too.


DOS equis

[karapet]

Originally Posted by DOS_equis The only way to fix the original fan connector (assuming that it has a standard 3 pin plug on the end) is a soldering iron and some liquid rosin flux. I have repaired stuff like that in the past by stripping back the wires, tinning them with solder and soldering the pins back on the ends after freeing them out of the plug with a small razor knife or pin. The easiest way for you to fix that is just replacing the fan with another 120mm fan (or whatever size they used). There should be a header on the mobo or on the pump like I said. You might have to look for a white or black fan plug that is stuck on the mobo with no wires. What brand of cooler is that? I seriously doubt this is the case but the wires might have been directly attached to the heatsink/ pump. It will suck big time if that is the case though. You would have to replace it or somehow open it up and resolder the wires back where they go.

I wil replace, I don't want to waste time on little detail fix like that, it's not worth that.

Originally Posted by DOS_equis On the HDD, you might want to look for the Windows serial key on the case or with whatever documentation that came with it. You will need that when you go to reinstall Windows on it. Don't know if you have OS discs either but you obviously will need it (more than likely OEM version). They might have done something like Dell and HP do with the HDD where they installed a recovery partition on it for the OS. If the drive is dead you will have to deal with getting the OS on the new drive. I have a 32bit copy of Windows 7 OEM that I can burn for you if you want. Your key should work on that if the key was for a 32 bit system. You might be able to call or email cyberpower and see if you can get a set of replacement discs too. DOS equis

I have Windows 7 Disk, it came with the PC.

[glc]

If you wind up just using it for parts (which is what I would do if I were in your shoes) you can use that Windows 7 disc and key on a build. I'm not holding out much hope for that motherboard and I'm concerned about that PSU.

[DOS_equis]

Yeah there isn't really much benefit to resurrecting that system since the gear in it is a gen old or so already, especially if you are getting a full refund from the seller. You could even keep the parts you wanted/ needed as instructed in this thread and part out the rest on eBay in "as-is for parts" condition. Someone might need the rest of it for something. You never know.


DOS equis

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc If you wind up just using it for parts (which is what I would do if I were in your shoes) you can use that Windows 7 disc and key on a build. I'm not holding out much hope for that motherboard and I'm concerned about that PSU.

OK, so what parts should I salvage for a new build?

[Jbc223456]

It all depends on what works. Please read the above posts by glc and follow the instructions set about in this thread:

PROBLEMS with a NEW BUILD? Try This!!

From what I've read throughout this thread, the only thing I'd salvage is the video card.

[karapet]

Originally Posted by Jbc223456 It all depends on what works. Please read the above posts by glc and follow the instructions set about in this thread: PROBLEMS with a NEW BUILD? Try This!! From what I've read throughout this thread, the only thing I'd salvage is the video card.

I would do what glc told to do, following the guide from the link, but my liquid cooling fan is not in good condition. The fan that is behind the radiator has wires that are ripped out from the nest and I don't know whether I can turn on the power without that fan to be working or not. Do I need to buy that fan first?

Thank you

[glc]

You can run it without the fan long enough to look for a display. Carefully remove the radiator from the case, leaving it attached to the cooling block. You won't burn up the CPU if you leave it on too long, it has a thermal sensor and will shut itself down. Remove one of the case fans and connect it to the CPU fan header on the motherboard so it will think there's a CPU fan connected, it may not start without seeing one.

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc you can run it without the fan long enough to look for a display. Carefully remove the radiator from the case, leaving it attached to the cooling block. You won't burn up the cpu if you leave it on too long, it has a thermal sensor and will shut itself down. Remove one of the case fans and connect it to the cpu fan header on the motherboard so it will think there's a cpu fan connected, it may not start without seeing one.

ok

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc Remove one of the case fans and connect it to the CPU fan header on the motherboard so it will think there's a CPU fan connected, it may not start without seeing one.

But liquid fan is connected right now to the cpu fan header

[karapet]

OK,

I have did everything it said in the linked tutorial.
When I power the system it loads and if I don't use a keyboard it gets to the screen with saying something like : No boot-able devices ara found. Which I believe is fine, since they are all disconnected.
Next time when I powered it, I managed to go to the bios, by pressing DEL. So I am in Bios.

So is it a success or not yet?

Thank you

[karapet]

OK, so now I connected the HDD and I could see it in BIOS, but couldn't boot from it (I think because of it's blank). NowI connected a bluray-rom and only 1 option came up to boot from the Bluray-Rom. I believe my bluray rom is damaged to the point that I couldn't install system from it, but I will try rightnow

[karapet]

But it's bizzare, when I put windows disk in the bluray-romtray it starts to read it. then on the screen it gives me an option to press any key if i want to boot from CD/DVD, i press something. Then it leads to the same screen :

"Please select the boot device:
CD/DVD : TSSTcorp DVDWBD SH-B123L"


Use the up down keys to select which entry is highlighted.
Press Enter to boot the selected device.

If I press Enter, nothing happens

[karapet]

Yay, it works.
By pressing F11 it lead me to a boot menu:

Boot from
1. cd/dvd
2. SATA HDD
3. Infiniti 2.2 TB (I don't know what that is?)

So, I chose #2 and the system boots, WIndows 7 Home Premium is already preinstalled + I have System on the DVD disc.

Evything works. I checked in the properties, it sees all the hardware (hdd,cd/dvd,gpu,12GB RAM).

Yay Thank you guys, now I can proceed to the next steps of ordering parts for my own build and ordering parts for completing this build. I think it needs fan for the radiator of the CPU liquid fan.

Please advice me on the parts I need to complete this fixing and i will create new thread for my new build.

[karapet]

Now I am posting from the Cyberpower and here is the screen

[glc]

Okay - to put the Cyberpower together to sell it, you need a case, DVD burner, and a standard socket 1366 heatsink/fan. You can let it go with the 570 video card or you can put a cheap card in it. I would highly recommend you get rid of it as soon as you can before that PSU takes a dump or anything else gets screwy.

I would toss the liquid cooling system and the optical drive.

[karapet]

Originally Posted by glc Okay - to put the Cyberpower together to sell it, you need a case, DVD burner, and a standard socket 1366 heatsink/fan. You can let it go with the 570 video card or you can put a cheap card in it. I would highly recommend you get rid of it as soon as you can before that PSU takes a dump or anything else gets screwy. I would toss the liquid cooling system and the optical drive.

1. Lite-ON DVD burner just arrived.
2. CASE... Sapphire Radeon HD 6570, Raidmax Blackstorm ATX-615WW - System Build - PCPartPicker good price for the same case. Could I get different looking case or it would be complicated to assemble all the parts in different case?
3. Dynatron G785 CPU Cooler - Newegg.com heatsink/fan.
4. GPU Sapphire Radeon HD 6570, Raidmax Blackstorm ATX-615WW - System Build - PCPartPicker

5....? What about the fan that goes to the back of the case, the existing one has it's wires stripped. Do I need to buy another fan?

What do you think?

[DOS_equis]

Originally Posted by karapet 1. Lite-ON DVD burner just arrived. 2. CASE... Sapphire Radeon HD 6570, Raidmax Blackstorm ATX-615WW - System Build - PCPartPicker good price for the same case. Could I get different looking case or it would be complicated to assemble all the parts in different case? 3. Dynatron G785 CPU Cooler - Newegg.com heatsink/fan. 4. GPU Sapphire Radeon HD 6570, Raidmax Blackstorm ATX-615WW - System Build - PCPartPicker 5....? What about the fan that goes to the back of the case, the existing one has it's wires stripped. Do I need to buy another fan? What do you think?

That stuff looks good enough to send it down the road and let someone else deal with it or enjoy it. The case fan just needs to be replaced and a basic 120mm fan is pretty cheap so you should add it to the pcpartpicker list. It will just exhaust the warm case air out of the back instead of cooling the radiator that you are going to throw away. You could even get a stock intel heatsink from ebay for next to nothing instead of an aftermarket one.


DOS equis

[glc]

There is no reason you have to get the same case, any standard ATX case will work fine. Get one you like. A new case will come with fans. I'd go a bit stronger on a video card so gamers won't just reject the system.

Here would be my personal choices for a case, video card, and CPU cooler:

COOLER MASTER HAF 912 RC-912-KKN1 Black SECC/ ABS Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Newegg.com

SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 7750 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 x16 HDCP Ready Video Card ( 11202-00-20G) - Newegg.com

COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 "Heatpipe Direct Contact" Long Life Sleeve 120mm CPU Cooler Compatible with Intel 1366/1155/775 and AMD FM1/FM2/AM3+ - Newegg.com

[karapet]

Originally Posted by DOS_equis That stuff looks good enough to send it down the road and let someone else deal with it or enjoy it. The case fan just needs to be replaced and a basic 120mm fan is pretty cheap so you should add it to the pcpartpicker list. It will just exhaust the warm case air out of the back instead of cooling the radiator that you are going to throw away. You could even get a stock intel heatsink from ebay for next to nothing instead of an aftermarket one. DOS equis

That sounds good. What I don't really understand, is why do I need to toss liquid cooled fan? It doesn't seem to be damaged, the only fan to cool the radiator has to be replaced in my opinion. Or is it because, the damage could be hidden and down the road it could leak the substance allover the mobo?

And if I would like to get a stock intel heatsink, is there aspecific size I need or socket type?

Thank you man