|
|||||||
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
|
|
#1 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
case paint question
my case is metal/plastic, what do i use for painting it?
i want something dourable and cheap. |
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
PlastiKote paint works well, it's like an enamel spray paint. By rights you should use plastic primer on plastic parts and zinc/etch primer on bare metal but I just use the same primer for all bits and it's worked OK so far.
As for what paint you use, cellulose or acrylic work well but the key to getting it right is in the prep work, buy some tack cloths (theyre worth the money) they are slightly sticky and remove all dust and stuff from the area to be painted to you don't get inclusions (little specks in the paint).
__________________
Intel Core i7 920 2.66GHz | Asus P6T SE| 6GB Corsair ram | XFX Radeon HD 4780 | 2 x 250 Gb Maxtor SATA II (in RAID 0), 1 x 250GB SATA II | Creative XFI soundcard | Coolermaster 650W PSU | ThermalTake Tsunami case My new website -Carp Fishing Forums |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
ahh ok thanks that helped me out more than i expected
![]() oh and BTW how much would the paint and primer cost? and can i get it pretty much any where? also do i need any tools? like a paint sprayer or is it spray can form? Last edited by eX!le2127; 06-20-2004 at 01:13 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
Member (10 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Corpus Christi, Tx
Posts: 667
|
Personally, here in Texas, I wouldn't pay over 4 dollars a can for Plasti or Krylon. No special tools needed as it comes in a rattle can. After you use the tack cloth remember not to touch the surface you are going to be painting so you don't get any oil from your hands on it. If you can't find tack rags you can use laquer thinner on a regular lint free rag. Let it dry before you paint. All the supplies should be available at a hardware or automotive store (Home Depot or Autozone). Follow the directions on the paint can. Multiple light coats are almost always superior to one heavy coat.
-Spartan |
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
If you do use flat cellulose - not metallic (probably applies for acrylic but i've never tried it) get some good quality cutting compound and various grades of wet-and-dry paper 800 upto 2000 grit should do the trick. You'll find that when you spray it takes on a rough appearance when you're applying thin layers. Just leave to dry for say 6 hours and lightly rub down with the 800 grade before each coat. When you've built up enough coats just wet sand down with 800 till he paint surface looks flat, progressively work up to the 2000 grade and the surface should still look dulled but smooth then move on to the cutting compound and you'll get a mirror finish.
This doesn't apply to metallic paints. Don't rub down between coats and after the final coat apply several layers of clear laquer. Hope this is of some use |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
yeah a lil confusing to follow but il get all the supplies and re-read what was said. i should be able to do a good job.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 | |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
well the less money i have to spend the better!
all i want is a good looking paint job... nothing too fancy all im gonna do is: buy primer buy paint buy tack cloth prep the case, and paint a light coats a few times. then see how it looks and go from there. |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 |
|
Gremlin Overlord
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Australia
Posts: 2,382
|
SOunds good... don't forget to post pictures if you get something looking really swish
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
Yeah, post some pics to show us all how you got on.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#11 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
ok i will do that... but im not gonna paint for a while
i might just mess around with that case and buy a new one, with a window and more fans etc. but i will still post pics of the case im gonna paint. |
|
|
|
|
|
#12 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
Why not make a window in the case you already have, that way you get exactly the sort of design you're looking for. Fairly easy to do all you need is a dremel or desoutter. Cutting wheels and some acrylic/perspex.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#13 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
well i was thinking that but the case i got is kinda gay in its design, and i dont wanna re-design it. the case im gonna get is cool. its got fan speed dials, case temp/warning temp digital guages, 4-120mm fans, a big neon lit window, screw less design-it opens up like a door. all in all it looks kick ass and has good ratings on newegg.com for $129.00
|
|
|
|
|
|
#14 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
Nice one
Got a link to it please? |
|
|
|
|
|
#15 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
yeah sure can...
here are a few im thinking about getting: http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...133-129&depa=0 http://www.newegg.com/app/ViewProduc...133-126&depa=0 tell me what you think. |
|
|
|
|
|
#16 |
|
Member (10 bit)
|
Like the look of the Lanfire case, I believe that front fireball logo is EL plastic, should look great
|
|
|
|
|
|
#17 |
|
Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 106
|
yeah i like that too... cool
|
|
|
|
|
|
#18 |
|
Member (9 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: South Texas
Posts: 300
|
I am about to perform an upgrade to one PC here, starting with a Kingwin KT 424 case. But three pieces I'll move to that box are beige in color: FDD, CD-RW, and DVD-RW. I remain a bit wary of using a spray lacquer on plastic (Krylon), and also of getting any overspray anywhere it shouldn't go.
What kind of plastic do NEC, and TDK, and Plextor use on their drive faces? Wouldn't a paint already intended for plastic, such as those that model car hobbysists use, be less of a gamble to use?
|
|
|
|
![]() |
| Bookmarks |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | Rate This Thread |
|
|