Having problems with a new build? Try this.

[HAL9000]

That jumper is actually quite common on Intel boards and has been around for some time.

[glc]

Also, on the Intel boards, you can start tapping F2 on powerup and you will get into the bios. The jumper simply forces this if F2 doesn't work for some reason. I haven't HAD to use the jumper yet - but I suppose there will be a first time!

[HAL9000]

G... I had some BX boards that I could get into the BIOS with F2, but if I changed anything... it absolutely refused to keep the settings.

[byfarrthebest]

I have set up this system as you suggest and i have also connected the case speaker to listen for post beebs.
when i short the power switch for 4 secs the CPU fan stops spinning but there is still no post.

[Chester]

Hi,
Thanks for the tip. I know this is posted over 2 years ago. But Still helpful.

I just brought a A7N8X Deluxe nForce2 mother board and AMD Athlon XP 2500 and 2 cruical 500 MB ram. a Thermalright SLK-700 heatsick and a Y.S. TECH TMD 70x70x15mm Fan(5800RPM). I used an old PCI video card from my old computer (Diamand ?)


When I put everything together, it would not post. The case fan and CPU will on for 5-10 seconds and stop, there is no beep from the speaker. I switched to another speeker from another machine and still no beep.

I then follow the procedures in this tread and removed everything except for
memory (2), a PCI vedio card, CPU with heatsick and fan. Now the CPU fan will continue to run, but there is no beep and no display signal from PCI Video card

How do you proceed ? Any suggestions ?

thanks in advance.

Chester

[sfuhrman]

ok I'm going for it and will reply thank you-sounds like you know what you are doing sir

[Sir]

ok, well here we go:
I originally installed everything in the case, here are the exact specs:
Case = Thermaltake Xaser Lanfire Series VM2000A
Power Supply = Thermaltake Xaser Silent Purepower 480W
Processor = Intel P4 2.8C Ghz 800 Mhz HT
Motherboard = ASUS P4C800-E Deluxe
Sound Card = Creative Labs Sound Blaster Audigy 2 ZS (not platinum or pro, just the standard)
Video Card = ATI Radeon 9600XT 128mb
RAM = 1GB Kit HyperX DDR 400MHz (2 x 512) (Kingston)
Floppy = Standard 1.44mb
Hard Drive = Western Digital Internal SATA 160GB 7200RPM OEM (WD1600JD)
CD-RW Drive = Lite-On 52x32x52 [Model = LTR-52327S]
DVD Drive = Lite-On XJ-165H 16X DVD-ROM Drive

I then turned it on, everything began running smoothly and it gave me the first screen and told me to press DEL to enter setup...POST then started to take place. It seems to be great, then all of the sudden (without any beeps), it mentions a CMOS error and the computer shuts down. I try to turn it on, no response, i then unplug the power cord and wait 10 seconds. After that, I plugged the power cord back in and attempted to turn on the computer, it then started up (fans included), and half a second later, shut down. I immeaditley tried turning it back on...same result as earlier. This process could be repeated endlessly.
Then I did what HAL told me to do in post #1, same result, the cpu fan began to run for half a second and then shut off. I then tried switching out the RAM with a 64 mb stick, same result, then removing all RAM, same result.
I'm stumped, plz help me

[Cricket]

Try another power supply. I remember reading about Thermaltake power supplies having a problem supplying clean power through the 5v rail.

Cricket

[Sir]

what do u recommend
and does any1 else have other solutions?

[Cricket]

If you have another P4 compatible power supply handy, just swap it in to test with. If the system starts up, you'll need to replace the Thermaltake.

You're working with just the core parts, right...motherboard, CPU, heatsink, RAM, video card, power supply, PC case speaker and monitor. You're trying to isolate the problem so don't connect anything else up yet.

I like Fortron Source and Sparkle Power power supplies...very clean power on the rails and the ability to go beyond their rated wattage.

Cricket

[Sir]

ya, i havnt, just the core parts
*EDIT*: and if it is indeed the PSU, could it have damaged any of my other parts?
*EDIT #2*: are you sure it is the psu, because if that is the case, then I would want to put everything back into the case, and once I get a new one, then i can just install it

[Cricket]

Originally posted by Sir and if it is indeed the PSU, could it have damaged any of my other parts?

That's always a possibility. You'll have to check the parts after you swap out the power supply.

Cricket

[Sir]

k, what PSU do u guys recommend
im going no lower than 450W, and dont try to argue with me
and I obviously want one that will work instead of this PIECE

[HAL9000]

450w is a total waste of money... 350w is more than ample.. look at Enermax and Sparkle.... I'm holding off on Antec for a bit again because I'm noticing a slight downward trend with them again.

[Cricket]

Yeah, I agree with HAL900...450 watts is really not necessary for the system you have, 350 watts from a good quality power supply will easily handle what you have. More doesn't necessarily mean it's better.

Cricket

[Sir]

well im scared here, u guys say it will easily handle it
but how "easily" are you talking...how many Watts is my system really using up, and I do want to ofcourse leave room for upgrades. Also, when I overlcock, the system will overheat, I'm sure there will be effects there. And if all of these are issues are OK, then what PSU do u recommend
two more Questions:
1) difference between digital and analog sound
2) can I go ahead and put everything back into my case and just wait for the new PSU?

[HAL9000]

Well... I run

P4 2.0
512MB
AIW 8500DV with firewire
USB powered receiver for the above card
NIC
USB 2.0 card
SB Live
120GB 7200RPM hard drive
Floppy
CDRW
DVD
USB powered scanner
USB powered web cam
intake and exhast fan
2 fan bay cooler

All easily on a 350w power supply

Not enuf.... I have in the past year REMOVED

Adapted 2940U2W SCSI card
18GB 7200RPM SCSI drive
20GB 7200RPM SCSI drive

So even with that... everything ran fine.

300w will run your system fine... I suggested the 350w to give you that extra headroom.

[Sir]

well im also running an additional stick of RAM, also a 2.0 card, also a usb scanner/printer, also a usb web cam, 6 case fans, thermaltake's "hardcano", foppy, cdrw, dvd, sblive, radeon 9600xt, and i plan on getting an additional hdd...so wuld i still have ample room (also keep in mind that I am most likely going to overclock at 20%)
that is ofcourse assuming that the computer does eventually work

so if I could plz get reccomendations on a GREAT psu (350W if all i have listed still leaves ample room, if not, then 400 or 450)
ty

and the difference between digital and analog?
and can i put the other stuff back in my case?

[glc]

No, you should not put the other stuff back in your case until you get the thing running on the table with minimums - you do not know for sure that the problem is the power supply till you try a different one - ANY power supply - and I would not go out and buy one until yours is PROVEN bad.

[Cricket]

Originally posted by Sir well im scared here, u guys say it will easily handle it but how "easily" are you talking...how many Watts is my system really using up, and I do want to ofcourse leave room for upgrades. Also, when I overlcock, the system will overheat, I'm sure there will be effects there. And if all of these are issues are OK, then what PSU do u recommend

If I'm not mistaken, this is your first build, right? And you're basing your decision to go with a 450 watt power supply on what? Something you read or heard somewhere? Well, HAL9000 has built over 4000 computers (maybe over 5000 by now) and I think he knows what he's talking about when he says a 300 watt PSU will run your system fine, but you can go with 350 watts for more headroom for future expansion. From my own experiences (almost up to 60 computers), a good quality 300 watt power supply will run a nicely spec'd out computer fine.

Of course, it's your money and you can buy what you want, but you came here for suggestions and we've tried to give you some sound advice to save you a few bucks.

Really good 350 watt power supplies would come from Enermax, Fortron Source, HEC, PC Power & Cooling, Sparkle Power and Verax. I like Fortron Source / Sparkle Power because tests have shown they provide very clean power to the rails and they're actually able to provide more power than they're rated at...and they're very reasonably priced.

Cricket

[Sir]

ok, well yes it is my first build, and I guess all I had to base my decision on was Maximum PC's Gear of The Year
but thanks for the help, and I'll go find a good 350W from one of those companies listed

[Sir]

k, what do you guys think of this one:
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pro...dex_hp_atx.htm
the 350 or 425...I got a few extra bucks this weekend so I have the money for the 425 (so what are your opinions on the two)

and does this look good to you:
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pro...dex_tester.htm
It sure does to me, but I'm not sure if they're just trying to sell it to me

[glc]

PC Power and Cooling power supplies are probably one of the best power supplies on the planet. 350 watts is ample, 425 would give you even more room for expansion.

That looks like a simple go/no go tester, it's not going to test under any kind of meaningful load.

Have you tried a different power supply yet to make SURE that's the problem?

[Sir]

I can't tell with the 425 (which is what I'm going to order)...does it have active PFC?

and if not, how much of a disadvantage will this be?

[Cricket]

What is active PFC?

Did you get another power supply and try to start the system with it yet? If you don't have the new power supply yet, then there's not much we can do for you at this point.

Cricket

[Sir]

no, I havn't gotten one yet...
but here's my previous post quoted:
"k, what do you guys think of this one:
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pr...ndex_hp_atx.htm
the 350 or 425...I got a few extra bucks this weekend so I have the money for the 425 (so what are your opinions on the two)

and does this look good to you:
http://www.pcpowerandcooling.com/pr...ndex_tester.htm
It sure does to me, but I'm not sure if they're just trying to sell it to me"

[Cricket]

The 350 watt power supply will easily run most systems today. Since the PC Power & Cooling PSU's are so high quality, they provide really clean power to the system and I wouldn't be surprised if a 350 watt couldn't actually push out over 400 watts at peak usage. I wouldn't waste my hard earned money on a 425 watt PSU knowing I didn't need that much power.

That PSU tester is a nice thing to have, but how often do you think you'll use it? I put a couple of computers together a month and I don't own one of those. I've seen the Antec PSU testers at CompUSA, but never thought I needed one.

Cricket

[Sir]

the reason I would get it is because I don't have a working backup PSU...so now I could use this instead

[Russbo]

Hi all!

I posted this on another thread and I was hoping someone here might be able to help me. I'm at my wits end....



"Okay... I have finally gotten all of my parts for my computer and I hope Ihaven't messed it up to where I'll have to buy new parts. I'm sure these questions have been asked before but I can't find an accurate answer for the problems I've been having. Okay, first, here are my specs (as far as I can think...)

Abit NF7 MOBO
AMD Athlon XP 2500+ (Barton Core)
Gigabyte Technologies ATI Radeon 9200SE graphics card
512 MB PC2700 RAM
Pacific Digital 52X CDRW drive
40 GB Western Digital 2 MB Cache hard drive
Raidmax Scorpio 868 case (Yellow)
19" CRT monitor

Okay, I hooked it all up Friday night and as I assembled the CPU and heatsink together, I ended up putting too much thermal paste on the CPU and as it started up, part of the paste burned. I quickly turned it all off and cleaned off the CPU and heatsink. Room smelled to high heaven.

I got up the nerve to hook things back together Saturday night and after only putting a dab (half a grain of rice) on the core of the CPU, I reassembled the CPU and HSF and started it all up. All was well with no smell.

Last night, I started back into everything and managed, after much sweating and fretting, to get the CDRW to work - door opening and everything. On the MOBO, there were two lights - amber and green - that came on in the order and stayed on. I would turn on the computer and it would come on and stay on. I couldn't get the power button to shut off and I guess the reset switch didn't/doesn't work but both are connected correctly. I had to shut it off from the PSU switch - I know that's not a good idea. I assume the hard drive is working as I hear no bad noises nor good ones. It's quiet.

This morning, I jumped once again into the fray. This time, I'd start up the computer and it'd stay on for a minute or so, then, shut down. This went on for a while. Somehow, it seems like I've managed to get it on and stay on AND I can now turn it off from the power switch. As for the reset switch, I can't get it to do anything. Here come my problems...

The monitor has always had a screen that says "no signal input" and I see no BIOS or POST or CCMOS. I have the monitor plugged into the video card as there's nothing else to plug it into. My wife's old eMachines has the video port built in to her MOBO but mine doesn't. I've taken the card out and reseated it and still nothing. I tried an older 17" monitor but all I get is just a black screen. I have no OS to install yet - would that make a difference? Do I need the drivers for all of this junk in my case to make them all work?

Now, on to my lovely case. I got it b/c I thought it would work well with what parts I was adding. That sucker has so many plugs and I have no clue where the smaller white ones with the tiny holes in them go (gee, and to think someone like me with such a limited knowledge of computer terminology is trying to build his own computer).

And to make matters worse, I may have a piece that won't go back on... it's a small piece with the letters and numbers SS22... any idea? Please tell me I don't need this piece...

Okay, there's a start. Could someone get back with as soon as you can? Thank you."

Sincerely,
Russell

[Russbo]

And it's not the SS22.. it's the SS12...