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#1 |
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Member (6 bit)
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CPU heat problem
well, finally got the comp and OS set up and working properly, but the cpu temperature is still bothering me. it gets as high as 58C while the temperature of the motherboard never gets above 30C. i got a coolermaster pure copper HSF installed, 7200 rpm, and 2 case fans (one intake and one exhaust) installed. should i do something about the cpu temp? or am i just overreacting?
oh btw i'm running on a athlon 1800+, no overclocking. thanks in advance. |
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#2 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,067
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Did you use a good thermal grease? If not you may want to try some, this should lower your cpu temp a few degrees.
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#3 |
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Tanker Yanker
Premium Member
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Lewisville TX
Posts: 2,920
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Hi Ace
If you installed your colermaster pure copper HSF using the thermal pad that normaly comes with fans, I would remove the fan and scrap off the thermal pad, using Alchoal and use Artic silver instead. If your local PC store does not carry any I would go here www.articsilver.com scroll down to dealers and Distrabution and find a dealer in your area. This should solve your heating problem. Good luck
__________________
MB: DFI Lanparty UT-NF4 SLI-D/Processor AMD Athlon 64x2 Toledo/video Card:XFX 9800GTX+/Audio:Sound Blaster Audigy 4/Ram:Corsair XMS Extreme 4x1Gig PC3200/HD:1x150GBWestern Digital Raptor 1x80GB Segate Beracuda 7200 SATA /Monitor:ASUS VS247 H-P 23.6"/Keyboard Mouse:Logitech Cordless Wave/Speakers: Logitech G51/Printer/Fax/Scanner:Brother MFC-685CW |
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#4 |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Hi Ace,
Where are you getting those temps from and what motherboard are you using? What case are you using? What kind of room temps are you seeing? Check to see that the heatsink is sitting flat and level on the CPU core and that it's making full contact. Make sure that all your cables and wires are bundled away from the heatsink. Artic Silver. Cricket
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#5 |
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Member (10 bit)
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 559
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is that the heatpipe heatsink.??????..have you touched the heatsink to make sure it is taking heat away...????
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#6 |
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Member (6 bit)
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i'm using arctic alumina now (made by arctic silver company) and the cpu temp is constantly in the high 50s and as high as 60C. i do have the hsf properly installed and is taking heat. i'm getting the temp from the Asus probe 2 and the BIOS.
this is really bothering me, seeing my friends PC runs at 30s and 40s... the thing with my comp is that the CPU is almost hotter than the motherboard by over 20 degrees celcius... is there anything else that i could do about the heat? thanks in advance |
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#7 |
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just a tech
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: central valley CA
Posts: 1,409
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If your friends PC has an Intel CPU in it, it's going to be much cooler, especially if it's an older one. If you have an open PCI slot you can put one of those type fans in, I bought one just to check it out and I really like it, VERY quite, and it pulls alot more air then my exhaust fan. What if you leave it on for awhile, & or play some DVD's or something, then check the temp, & or see if you get any lockups, freezes, hangs, ect... Just not to long ago I went and looked at someones computer because they were having problems getting it to work and they didnt have the heatsink on right, that old Celeron was a smoking 114C
As for my own personal computer theres no way to check the CPU temp as the censore in the motherboard doesnt work right (reads 0c 32F always) so I really dont rely on temp readings but more on how it's running. Granted though, my AMD CPU is only a Duron running at 1200Mhz. |
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#8 |
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Member (6 bit)
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well, i really don't think the problem is the heat inside the air or the ambient temperature, since the motherboard is always around 30ish Celsius. right now my Athlon 1800+ is running at 1100mhz and the temp is at 53C/125F and the motherboard at 35C/95F.... this is after i changed from 1533mhz to 1100mhz... i'm really desperate for some kind of answer here... thanks for all of your replies.
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#9 |
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Banned
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Bakersfield,CA
Posts: 7,761
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Ace Accroding to the AMD Specs for the XP CPU, the maximum safe operating temp is 92 degrees C. By that they mean it has been tested to operate at that temp without damage or instability.
After you have used the computer the temps will get up in the 55 to 60 range. However this leaves you with two choices: 1. Sit around staring at the temp monitor, afraid of letting the computer get above 60 (30 degrees below max) and if it does turn it off 2. Using the computer to play games, surf and everything else. All of the crap about the idea temp of an AMD CPU being 34, 35, 36, or anything else below 90 degrees at full load is a bunch of junk from internet forums where temp are posted like scores at a sports event. As a matter of fact, unless they have recently posted them or I missed them the AMD site does not have an entry that goes, "Although the maximum allowable temp for the XP Core is 92 degrees C, All owners should panic and constantly monitor their computer if the detected temp excedds 36 degrees C." If you can uninstall the damn temp monitor software do it, and if your BIOS has the Hi-Temp Auto shutdown enable it for 78 Degrees C. |
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#10 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,067
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I agree with morriswindgate. As long as your hardware is installed and running properly you should not have a problem. Heck I've been running my computer in my room this summer which has no air conditioning, the ambient tems were over 100 degrees at times in this room, you could feel the additional heat escaping from the computer case and the monitor. The computer has been running solid. This is funny because when you sat at the computer it was actually ten degrees hotter in the area of the computer which sits at floor level. My point here is as long as you are dissipating the heat from your hardware your going to be in good shape. You may want to look at your case design, does it have air vent on the side as well as the back. One fan aimed inward on the front of the case and two fans aimed outward on the back of the case is a good set up to go with. Another good idea is a case fan on the side of the case. You can try different configurations if your really concered about temps.
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#11 |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Hi Ace,
If you set the CPU to it's default speed (1.53GHz) are you getting lockups or freezes? If you are experiencing lockups and freezes, take a good look at the heatsink installation and make certain that the heatsink is making good contact with the CPU core. Don't assume it is, really check it carefully. Make sure the recessed portion of the heatsink is over the raised part of the socket and that the clip is making contact with the heatsink directly over the CPU core. Make sure that the heatsink is not making contact with anything else in the vicinity of the socket. That's a good heatsink you're using so it should do a good job controlling CPU heat. Where do you have the power connected? Don't use the motherboard CPU fan header, connect it directly to the power supply using a 3 to 4 pin power adapter. That way you ensure the fan is getting all the power it needs. How much heatsink compound did you use? You really only need a tiny amount of heatsink compound in order to get good thermal transfer. With heatsink compounds, the statement "if using a little is good, using more is better" doesn't work. If you did use a lot of compound, you could actually be creating an insulting barrier between the heatsink and CPU. You should only have a really thin smear of compound on the heatsink and CPU core. If you aren't getting lockups or freezes, don't worry about it. Having the CPU run at slightly higher temps will not shorten it's lifespan appreciably (you'll upgrade long before then) and what's the point of worrying so much if you aren't having problems? If it's stable, forget about the temps and just enjoy using your computer. My own computers run for hours and hours in 80 to 90 degree room temps and I couldn't care less about the CPU or motherboard temperature. They all run nice and stable, that's all I care about. Cricket
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#12 |
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Member (6 bit)
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thanks for all the info and help =) really appreciate it
well, the computer isn't getting any freezes or lockups, but after the comp runs for a while, it sometimes displays a blue screen for a split second then restarts by itself. my firend told me it might be the cpu protection thingy where it restarts when it reaches certain temperature, but i set mine at 70 degrees Celcius and the cpu never really gets that high. could there be another problem that's causing the blue screen/restarting? thanks. |
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#13 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,067
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That sounds like a power supply problem. Intermittant restarts are usually associated with a faulty power supply.
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#14 |
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just a tech
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: central valley CA
Posts: 1,409
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My own personal opinion is that some of the censores that are in motherboards are not always very acurate
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#15 |
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Member (6 bit)
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well, the PS i'm using is a 350W Enermax whisper series
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#16 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,067
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Doesn't matter which brand it is it could still be faulty. Again intermittant restarting is usually a faulty power supply. I know very well of Enermax's reputation but that does not make this product infailable.
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#17 |
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Red-eyed Moderator
Staff
Premium Member
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 17,575
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Silly question, it usually cracks the core, but did you install the heatsink backwards. Doing so would offset the pressure point and not allow the heatsink to properly contact the CPU surface.
__________________
-At Ford, quality is job #1, job #2 is making them explode. ~Norm MacDonald, SNL News -Switching to Glide..Balancing in my head..inside of me... taking the glide path instead. |
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#18 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Easthampton, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,633
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58C is fine..just don't let it go over like 150F or even like 160F. I would worry if it hit 150-160 range.
-Matt |
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#19 |
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Member (12 bit)
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Easthampton, Massachusetts
Posts: 2,633
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My Athlon XP 1800+ runs at like 115-124 degrees F. Just don't let it go overboard, but I'm sure you want to make it cooler, since it will improve the life of your CPU
-Matt |
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#20 |
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Member (6 bit)
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Just to throw something into the mix..Arctic aluminas a thermal epoxy,might plain old arctic silver work better?Not too sure,as ive no experience with the epoxy..
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#21 | |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Quote:
Cricket
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#22 |
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Member (13 bit)
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Scotland
Posts: 4,700
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I'm of the opinion that the Athlon XPs are running hotter than the T/Birds. Everywhere you look, no matter what the mobo, people are complaining about higher CPU temps.
Whereas before, it was relatively easy with a good HSF, some Thermal Paste, and a couple of case fans, to have idle temps in 30-36c ranger and a full load temp in the 35-45c range, now people are struggling. Having these sorts of general temps were handy because it acted as benchmarks that showed new builders what you could expect if you installed everything properly. If you were hitting 45-50c at idle, then you had done something wrong (e.g. Heatsink not fitted properly, bad case circulation, a Thermal Pad that acted like two pounds of fat). Now with XPs, people are struggling to attain even a low 40c idle CPU. They can't understand why they can't achieve the same temps as they had with Athlons, Durons or T/Birds. Everyone is looking for an average again to show that they "did it right". But now the averages appears to be much higher. 45-50c for idle and 50-60c at full load. While I agree with Morris that one must not become obsessed with temps (unless you're overclocking - then it's of paramount importance), I still think there is something useful to be gained from being aware of and comparing temps. They give us benchmarks and show what can be achieved with a minimum of effort. Although AMD may say the optimum temp for XPs is 92c, I'm sure that if someone posts here that they have an idling temp of 70c and a full load temp of 85c - there would be a few replies. Essentially it's a matter of free will and choice. I could run my car with the bare minimum of oil and water - it would overheat the engine - but not enough to damage it in the short-term - but I choose not to. That's not the way I run an engine. |
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#23 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 69
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Ace, I'm not convinced that asus' tempature sensors are even close to right, I had the older version of asus probe, it allways showed 104F., I installed the newest version and now it says my cpu runs at 89F. from a 1.8ghz overclocked to 2.3 ghz, i'm going to install a compunurse tempature monitor for the cpu, I think i'd trust it more than the asusprobe. coog
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#24 |
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Shiro Usagi
Premium Member
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Posts: 34,002
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Hey mike breck,
I remember seeing an article somewhere about the heat problems AMD was having with the Athlon XP 2200+. Sounded like the thing was a furnace. And I thought the faster XP's used something like 72 watts? That would explain the amount of heat generated. Cricket
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#25 |
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Member (6 bit)
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well, i'm now less obsessed with the temperatures now, thanks to you guys =)
highrisemech: faulty power supply? hmmm... i might have to swap some power supplies to see. well, here's the situation. i use a computer for a couple of hours, no lag, no freeze, everything perfectly normal. then the computer suddenly turns blue, for about 1/2 a second, and before i could read what the error is, the computer restarts.... i'll certainly look into the power supply, but could there be some other components that causes the problem? |
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#26 | |
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Member (8 bit)
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Quote:
Artic Alumina is a HS compound just like Artic silver. The difference is instead of micronized silver, it uses micronized Ceramic particles to dissapate the heat. It provides almost the same thermal properties as Artic Silver, while remaining economical and the Big bonus is that is is Non-Conductive! Which means that is you are using it and a little too much gets on your CPU bridges or what not, it will not short it out. It can be mixed with the Artic Epoxy to lessen its strenght if needed. |
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#27 | |
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Member (8 bit)
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Quote:
Worst case scenario. The voltage regulators to the CPU might be bad/going out. If they are letting to much voltage get to your CPU then excessive heat is a symptom. Which can then spike, cause a GFP and then reboot. Don't want to scare you, but I have seen it. |
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#28 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: in harms way
Posts: 2,768
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If the mobo is like my ASUS, it reads from the diode that is in the core itself. You will get no more accurate than that. If your psu is up to snuff, then maybe some case fans are in order?
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#29 |
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Member (6 bit)
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gonzo4904: wow you are right. even when i first set up the computer, the AsusProbe kept telling me that the "+12V Out of Threshold". the voltage is always in the 12.9-13.2V (not sure what that means, but i know it's above the amount of voltage the cpu should receive). i asked my friends about it, but they told me to not worry about it too. so in other words, the only thing i can do to avoid this is to replace the cpu? thanks.
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#30 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 69
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Ace, I just found something about the asus probe, when I installed it I didn't know that I would need to go into the asuspb.ini and make some changes it showed my mb as the P4S8X, which I have a P4S333, I also had to change "reverse fan2" from P4S8X to P4S333 the other fan settings I left as they were. go to start-find- files or folders, then type in asuspb.ini, and you'll see if there's a setup problem, you can also click on the asusprobe and see the readings , but I had to save and restart for them to work correctly. coog
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