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#1 |
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Member (4 bit)
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Thermaltake SubZero4G vs AquariusII Water System
I have an AMD XP 2400+ with the Asus A7N8X Deluxe Motherboard and a Volcano 9 heatsink. When i play high grapics games my CPU overheats and the board shuts the pc down..
Ive been looking into the Subzero4G by Thermaltake as a replacement for my heatsink but im not sure how effeective it will be. My other option is to go with the AquariusII Water cooling system, but ofcourse im nervous about doing that. My question is does anyone have any experiancec with either of these products or just water systems ingeneral? I need to know if the Subzero4G is worth the time or if the Water system works better, and if the risk is low enough.. Any advice will be helpfull.. thanks |
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#2 |
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Member (10 bit)
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Have you overclocked?
If you havent, you shouldn't be overheating with the volcano 9. Are you sure it is on right, and not backwards? What type of Heatsink compound did you use? How many case fans do you have and how clean and organized is your case? |
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#3 |
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Member (4 bit)
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Its not overclocked, The compound is generic and i know i need some new stuff and i plan to get some. Ive got 7 total fans. 3 incoming, 2 outgoing, and 2 screwed together sitting in the bottem of the case to help move air out.
Yes im sure its on right. Its organized very well.. I'm using rounded IDE cables and all my loose wires haver sheethes.. |
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#4 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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The first thing I'd do is disconnect most of those fans. That is not a cooling-inducesive setup and most likely has way too much turbulance instead of smooth aire flow thru the system as needed. Try just the two exhaust fans and see if temps drop. Just for one example, my 2700+ runs just fine (never exceeding 45° C) on the same mobo, and that's with the "stock" cooling HS/fan combo and stock rear (two only) case fans.
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#5 |
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Member (4 bit)
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I disconnected the front 3 fans (one of those was cooling the hard drive) just left the 2 outgoing on. and it still runs 70-75 C. I built a computer for a friend who has the same processor and that new 2400 runs hot too.. I know that everything above the 2400 uses a differnt core.
There has got to be another problem. Has anyone heard about the Subzero4G and if it works well or not? Could the thermal compound make that big a differnce? If so whats the best stuff out there? Last edited by Auger; 05-03-2003 at 08:29 PM. |
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#6 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Basically same core, just larger cache. Even though, the 2400+'s should need more, so as you mention, there is another problem.
What is the vcore and other voltages? |
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#7 |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: in harms way
Posts: 2,768
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If the subzero is the Tt peltier/hsf combo, I have seen the pr sheet on it. It takes a pci slot for its power adapter, and then you plug ac into the pci slot backplane. I want one, and the technology is "right" if you ask me. It cools the cpu but does not run a condensation hazard.
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#8 |
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Member (4 bit)
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I did not mess with the voltages at all.. everything is default.. here's what i got..
VCORE 1.68v +3v 3.28v +5v 4.83v +12v 12.28v They all seem to be fluxuating with the temp of the CPU, not sure why but i didnt configure it for that. |
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#9 |
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snowboarder
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i just took a look at both of these systems, and i have to say, they both look pretty good, although the subzero seems to have very similar temp readouts to my Volcano 7+, the main difference being a 38C idle, while the load temps differ slightly
__________________
Antec Sonata - Abit IS7-E - P4 2.4/800 @ 3.0 - 1GB OCZ Gold DDR500 - FX5950 Ultra 256MB - Audigy 2 - WD JB 80GB - XP Pro |
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#10 |
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Member (7 bit)
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Seattle
Posts: 75
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Did you take out the two bottom fans? You should never exhaust air at the bottom of the case because the hot air will rise to the top of the case. You need to get rid of hot air on the top of the case or atleast on the side opposite of your intake fans.
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#11 | |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Quote:
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#12 |
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Member (4 bit)
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A friend suggested that i didnt have enough amps on the +5v line.
The pervious psu was 300 watt with 30 amps on that line, i got a new one today, 550 watt Antech True power with 40 amps on that line. The voltages still fluxuate a bit but the temp has not gone down at all.. Its an Antec case, the exaust fans are right near the top, beneith the psu. Last edited by Auger; 05-04-2003 at 06:18 PM. |
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#13 |
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Member (11 bit)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Orinda, California
Posts: 1,863
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well conductive grease will now void a CPU warranty (oh like we care right?) and also i must say that i say no drop when i switched to Artic Silver III. The stuff sucks if you ask me.
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#14 |
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Member (4 bit)
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I suspect that the problem is fixed, however becuase the board is still reporting high temps i cant be sure. I know there's a problem with the boards heat sensors, probrobly in the bios. The temp starts out real high around 75-78 c, but if you watch it for a while it will switch between that and around 37c. Back and forth quickly.. that suggest to me that there's something going on with the board.
I doubt there's anything wrong with the CPU because ive built another computer with the same chip and it runs high aswell, but it was the same board too so they could both have the same problem. |
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#15 |
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snowboarder
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maybe you just have an iffy temp sensor
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#16 |
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Member (4 bit)
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Thats what im hoping.. it would suck to have to replace the board or cpu.. again.. lol
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#17 |
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snowboarder
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if its not crashing or being a pain in the arse, id conclude that the temp sensor is dodgy and just check in on it every now and then
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#18 |
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Member (4 bit)
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Does anyone know a site that sells Temp sensor probes? I'm looking for one to replace the one that came with my Volcano 9 incase there's something wrong with that. I havent seen a site yet that sells those by themselves.
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#19 |
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Member (10 bit)
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I have that same setup and never went higher than 55 according to the sensor reading. reset your comp and press delete to enter setup stage. go to PC Health status and you get your true temperature there(I average 44 to 48). I also do intense graphic gaming (Mohaa, Battlefield 1942, Generals...) and never and I say never, had that problem.
cheers
__________________
3.40 AMD Phenom II X4 965--4G OCZ DDR3---Asus 5770 ATI Radeon----INTEL 78G SSD drive |
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#20 |
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Member (4 bit)
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thx i know how to get into the bios lol..
Actually the PC Health section with the cpu temp sensor is the section im getting my readings from. I suspect there is something wrong with the sensor or somethings messed up in the bios. I'm looking for a spare cpu temp sensor for the Volcano 9 because someone here suggested that those probes are buggy and dont work well. I figure no harm in replacing the thing. |
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#21 |
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Member (10 bit)
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The best one around seems to be Compunurse http://www.google.ca/search?q=compun...-8&hl=en&meta=
cheers |
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#22 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Hi All,
Ya, I too never saw much, if any drop using AS.... Also, it has pretty much always been that using none-stock stuff on an AMD CPU will void the warranty. This is not a new thing. My understanding is that Intel is the same on this. And please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that from the Athlon / P4, all CPUs draw power from the 12 V pipe, so the 12V leg is very important in system stability, especially when running more than a fan or two. TwoRails PS: nice search link, Propaine ! |
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#23 |
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snowboarder
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i read something from intel saying (to the effect) that if you removed/replaced the heatsink, you should not use the pad again, instead use some other thermal material, someone on this forum found and posted it a while back
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#24 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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The thread I think you may be refering to say that Intel sez you have to buy a new HS/fan combo to keep your warranty in effect.
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#25 |
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snowboarder
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from intel?
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#26 | ||
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Quote:
Quote:
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#27 |
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Member (4 bit)
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I did a bios update and the temp dropped from 78c to 60c, so i think there was something messed up in the bios. But im still wondering if thats a resonable temp? If not, does anyone have any suggestions what the problem is?
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#28 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Nothing really new... 60°s is OK, if it's accurate... Sure, everybody want's to see 0°
but a machine will run fine for years at 60.What's your current setup now, Auger? (fans, temps, and the like) |
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#29 |
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Member (4 bit)
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I've got 5 Case fans, 3 incoming (1 of them cooling the hard drive) and 2 exaust. Ive got that Volcano 9, its actually a cool mod. I'm trying to get rid of it because 1, you cant see the lights through my window anyway, and 2, i want to get a volcano 11.
I put that 550 watt psu in a few days ago and since then everything seems to be running much better. |
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#30 |
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Member (14 bit)
Premium Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: The Great NorthWest
Posts: 12,594
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Trivia: Even AMD does Not recommend "incoming" fans, as the recirculate hot air more than they help cool the system. No, this is not to start a "pressure" thing, as it doesn't really exist, but what does exist is smooth aire flow thru the case which is achieved wiht either no intake fans, or less than outtake fans.
IDE drives don't needed cooled, as they don't generate that much heat, but if you want to have a fan on them, then chances are you can disconnect the other two intakes and temps will either stay the same, or drop. Doesn't hurt to try. TwoRails |
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