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Old 05-03-2003, 01:26 PM   #1
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Thermaltake SubZero4G vs AquariusII Water System

I have an AMD XP 2400+ with the Asus A7N8X Deluxe Motherboard and a Volcano 9 heatsink. When i play high grapics games my CPU overheats and the board shuts the pc down..

Ive been looking into the Subzero4G by Thermaltake as a replacement for my heatsink but im not sure how effeective it will be.

My other option is to go with the AquariusII Water cooling system, but ofcourse im nervous about doing that.
My question is does anyone have any experiancec with either of these products or just water systems ingeneral? I need to know if the Subzero4G is worth the time or if the Water system works better, and if the risk is low enough..

Any advice will be helpfull..
thanks
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Old 05-03-2003, 01:39 PM   #2
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Have you overclocked?
If you havent, you shouldn't be overheating with the volcano 9.
Are you sure it is on right, and not backwards? What type of Heatsink compound did you use?
How many case fans do you have and how clean and organized is your case?
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Old 05-03-2003, 01:45 PM   #3
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Its not overclocked, The compound is generic and i know i need some new stuff and i plan to get some. Ive got 7 total fans. 3 incoming, 2 outgoing, and 2 screwed together sitting in the bottem of the case to help move air out.

Yes im sure its on right. Its organized very well.. I'm using rounded IDE cables and all my loose wires haver sheethes..
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Old 05-03-2003, 05:00 PM   #4
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The first thing I'd do is disconnect most of those fans. That is not a cooling-inducesive setup and most likely has way too much turbulance instead of smooth aire flow thru the system as needed. Try just the two exhaust fans and see if temps drop. Just for one example, my 2700+ runs just fine (never exceeding 45° C) on the same mobo, and that's with the "stock" cooling HS/fan combo and stock rear (two only) case fans.
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Old 05-03-2003, 08:16 PM   #5
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I disconnected the front 3 fans (one of those was cooling the hard drive) just left the 2 outgoing on. and it still runs 70-75 C. I built a computer for a friend who has the same processor and that new 2400 runs hot too.. I know that everything above the 2400 uses a differnt core.

There has got to be another problem. Has anyone heard about the Subzero4G and if it works well or not?

Could the thermal compound make that big a differnce? If so whats the best stuff out there?

Last edited by Auger; 05-03-2003 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 05-03-2003, 08:31 PM   #6
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Basically same core, just larger cache. Even though, the 2400+'s should need more, so as you mention, there is another problem.

What is the vcore and other voltages?
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Old 05-03-2003, 11:55 PM   #7
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If the subzero is the Tt peltier/hsf combo, I have seen the pr sheet on it. It takes a pci slot for its power adapter, and then you plug ac into the pci slot backplane. I want one, and the technology is "right" if you ask me. It cools the cpu but does not run a condensation hazard.
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Old 05-04-2003, 02:05 AM   #8
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I did not mess with the voltages at all.. everything is default.. here's what i got..

VCORE 1.68v
+3v 3.28v
+5v 4.83v
+12v 12.28v

They all seem to be fluxuating with the temp of the CPU, not sure why but i didnt configure it for that.
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Old 05-04-2003, 07:41 AM   #9
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i just took a look at both of these systems, and i have to say, they both look pretty good, although the subzero seems to have very similar temp readouts to my Volcano 7+, the main difference being a 38C idle, while the load temps differ slightly
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Old 05-04-2003, 10:27 AM   #10
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Did you take out the two bottom fans? You should never exhaust air at the bottom of the case because the hot air will rise to the top of the case. You need to get rid of hot air on the top of the case or atleast on the side opposite of your intake fans.
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Old 05-04-2003, 10:43 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by Auger
They all seem to be fluxuating with the temp of the CPU, not sure why but i didnt configure it for that.
The voltages posted look OK, but if the temp goes up-n-down with the volltages (which would be expected) then it would indicate a shacky power supply. Do you have another to swap out for testing??
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Old 05-04-2003, 02:40 PM   #12
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A friend suggested that i didnt have enough amps on the +5v line.

The pervious psu was 300 watt with 30 amps on that line, i got a new one today, 550 watt Antech True power with 40 amps on that line. The voltages still fluxuate a bit but the temp has not gone down at all..

Its an Antec case, the exaust fans are right near the top, beneith the psu.

Last edited by Auger; 05-04-2003 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 05-04-2003, 03:08 PM   #13
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well conductive grease will now void a CPU warranty (oh like we care right?) and also i must say that i say no drop when i switched to Artic Silver III. The stuff sucks if you ask me.
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:21 PM   #14
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I suspect that the problem is fixed, however becuase the board is still reporting high temps i cant be sure. I know there's a problem with the boards heat sensors, probrobly in the bios. The temp starts out real high around 75-78 c, but if you watch it for a while it will switch between that and around 37c. Back and forth quickly.. that suggest to me that there's something going on with the board.

I doubt there's anything wrong with the CPU because ive built another computer with the same chip and it runs high aswell, but it was the same board too so they could both have the same problem.
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:35 PM   #15
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maybe you just have an iffy temp sensor
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:48 PM   #16
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Thats what im hoping.. it would suck to have to replace the board or cpu.. again.. lol
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Old 05-04-2003, 06:50 PM   #17
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if its not crashing or being a pain in the arse, id conclude that the temp sensor is dodgy and just check in on it every now and then
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Old 05-04-2003, 11:03 PM   #18
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Does anyone know a site that sells Temp sensor probes? I'm looking for one to replace the one that came with my Volcano 9 incase there's something wrong with that. I havent seen a site yet that sells those by themselves.
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Old 05-05-2003, 10:51 PM   #19
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I have that same setup and never went higher than 55 according to the sensor reading. reset your comp and press delete to enter setup stage. go to PC Health status and you get your true temperature there(I average 44 to 48). I also do intense graphic gaming (Mohaa, Battlefield 1942, Generals...) and never and I say never, had that problem.
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Old 05-05-2003, 10:56 PM   #20
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thx i know how to get into the bios lol..

Actually the PC Health section with the cpu temp sensor is the section im getting my readings from. I suspect there is something wrong with the sensor or somethings messed up in the bios.

I'm looking for a spare cpu temp sensor for the Volcano 9 because someone here suggested that those probes are buggy and dont work well. I figure no harm in replacing the thing.
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Old 05-05-2003, 11:03 PM   #21
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The best one around seems to be Compunurse http://www.google.ca/search?q=compun...-8&hl=en&meta=
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:08 AM   #22
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Hi All,

Ya, I too never saw much, if any drop using AS....

Also, it has pretty much always been that using none-stock stuff on an AMD CPU will void the warranty. This is not a new thing. My understanding is that Intel is the same on this.

And please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding is that from the Athlon / P4, all CPUs draw power from the 12 V pipe, so the 12V leg is very important in system stability, especially when running more than a fan or two.

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PS: nice search link, Propaine !
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:13 AM   #23
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i read something from intel saying (to the effect) that if you removed/replaced the heatsink, you should not use the pad again, instead use some other thermal material, someone on this forum found and posted it a while back
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:19 AM   #24
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The thread I think you may be refering to say that Intel sez you have to buy a new HS/fan combo to keep your warranty in effect.
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:26 AM   #25
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from intel?
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Old 05-06-2003, 07:54 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally posted by Spyda
from intel?
I found it:

Quote:
Thermal Interface Material Attached to the Heatsink
Intel does not recommend the removal of the thermal interface material located on the bottom of the boxed processor fan heatsink. Removal of this material may cause damage to the processor and will void the boxed processor warranty. If you must remove and re-use the fan heatsink, it will require replacement. Also, if the thermal interface material is at all damaged, you must also replace the fan heatsink. Contact Intel Customer Support to receive a replacement fan heatsink.

Thermal Interface Material in an Applicator
Using the boxed processor without properly applying the included thermal interface material may cause damage to the processor and will void the boxed processor warranty. If you must remove and re-use the fan heatsink, a new application of thermal interface material is required. Contact Intel Customer Support to receive additional thermal interface material in an applicator.
taken from this Thread
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Old 05-06-2003, 09:58 AM   #27
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I did a bios update and the temp dropped from 78c to 60c, so i think there was something messed up in the bios. But im still wondering if thats a resonable temp? If not, does anyone have any suggestions what the problem is?
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Old 05-07-2003, 06:42 PM   #28
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Nothing really new... 60°s is OK, if it's accurate... Sure, everybody want's to see 0° but a machine will run fine for years at 60.

What's your current setup now, Auger? (fans, temps, and the like)
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Old 05-07-2003, 08:57 PM   #29
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I've got 5 Case fans, 3 incoming (1 of them cooling the hard drive) and 2 exaust. Ive got that Volcano 9, its actually a cool mod. I'm trying to get rid of it because 1, you cant see the lights through my window anyway, and 2, i want to get a volcano 11.

I put that 550 watt psu in a few days ago and since then everything seems to be running much better.
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Old 05-08-2003, 07:01 PM   #30
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Trivia: Even AMD does Not recommend "incoming" fans, as the recirculate hot air more than they help cool the system. No, this is not to start a "pressure" thing, as it doesn't really exist, but what does exist is smooth aire flow thru the case which is achieved wiht either no intake fans, or less than outtake fans.

IDE drives don't needed cooled, as they don't generate that much heat, but if you want to have a fan on them, then chances are you can disconnect the other two intakes and temps will either stay the same, or drop.

Doesn't hurt to try.

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