Bad Paint, Any suggestions?

[Hi Ho]

The paint on the hood and roof of my 1990 Civic has deteriorated. Actually it is the clear coat that has deteriorated. HERE is what it looks like. The paint underneath is fine. HERE is a close-up view. I have tried spraying on some clear coat from a spray can and it has done the same thing (what is in the picture). It was much worse before. A local, reputable paint shop estimated that it would cost over $1,500 just to paint the roof and the hood. That's almost as much as the whole car is worth! The rest of the car is in near perfect condition with the only flaw being the dent in the fron-right fender. The interior is perfect and extremely clean. It just isn't pleasing to look at the hood or the roof. Does anyone have any suggestions on a cheap fix for this problem?

[Panama Red]

Are you sure it's not just the normal oxidation that occurs with red cars? My daughter has a 94 Probe GT and it was faded badly. I paid a detailing shop $140 to completely detail the car including a wheel/rubbing compound polish of the hood, top and truck lid. These were the most oxidized/discolored areas. Then they applied a good coat of pure Carnuba wax. Looks like new now.

[Hi Ho]

It's the clear coat. I can scrape it off with my finger nail. Before I applied the new clearcoat I had used rubbing compound and waxed it repeatedly and it looked like THIS. After applying the clear coat it looked like THIS. In a few months it looked like it does now in the first photos I posted. I question the need for a clear coat on any vehicle. My 1977 F-250 (in my signature) has no clear coat and has never been in a garage, along with all my vehicles, and it still looks like new.

[Panama Red]

Pictures do tell the story. Truck still looks good tho cuz it's not red! It's the worse color.

[HAL9000]

I've had three red cars... the one was my very first new one, an 87 Daytona... and I still see it running around... no probs with the paint.

[Hi Ho]

I don't think it has anything to do with the color because the paint underneath the clear coat is perfect.

[Spartan]

In the old days we used 8-12 coats of laquers and hand rubbed them every 3 coats or so. Then came acrylic enamel which was one thick color coat but ofetn did not come out smooth. Sometimes enamel was used with the basecoat/clearcoat process. Now the standard in custom paint seems to be urethane with the basecoat/clearcoat process. this allows fewer color coats and still a very flat finish with the protective qualities of the clearcoat.

Hopefully you just have some oxidation that can be removed with rubbing compound. If I read correctly you waxed before the clearcoat was applied. If the wax was not completely removed before the clearcoat was applied then it could be that the clear did not properly adhear to the color coat. In that case you will have to repaint. But it need not cost alot. The biggest expense in a paintjob is the body/prep work. if the bodywork is done then a painter can paint it relatively cheaply.

If I were you I would sand the entire car completely then take it to Maaco or someone like them for a cheap paintjob. Do the prep yourself and save. From some of your other posts I think you can do it. Heck drive it down to Corpus Christi, Tx and I'll paint it for you.....lol.

-Spartan

[Hi Ho]

Heck drive it down to Corpus Christi, Tx and I'll paint it for you.....lol.

LOL, maybe I would if it didn't have 323,000 miles on the original clutch along with everything else. I did remove the wax and old clearcoat before applying the new stuff. I sanded it down to the paint. i know it is not oxidation. I may try what you suggested. Do you think it would look good if I bought some color-matched paint at an auto parts store, applied a few coats, buffed, polished, and waxed it?

[Spartan]

Jiminy Christmas! 323,000 miles! I would say you got your money out of that car!

If you are talking about painting it yourself then yeah, I would give it a shot. With solid bodywork you really can't mess it up. After applying the color coat give it a quick wetsanding before doing the clear. PM me and I'll send you some detailed steps. Expect to spend a couple hundred in materials (hopefully you have the paint gun and/or access to the equipment). If you want one step paint (no clear) look at Acrylic enamel. It should cover in one coat (maaaaybe 2 coats) and only need rubbing out.

-Spartan

[Hi Ho]

Yes I would say I got my money out of this thing. Especially considering that it still runs like new, doesn't burn oil, and still gets 40mpg. I have a professional house sprayer. I don't know if that would work on a car.

[Spartan]

House sprayers tend to spray to thick so I would say no. Auto paint is measured in mil's (millionths of an inch) Some places will rent you a spray booth, but if economics are a concern I would say do the prep and go to Maaco for a $199 job. By the time you buy paint, thinner, sprayer and other things you will have more than that invested. After you get it back from Maaco you can wet sand and buff it to a perfect finish.

-Spartan

[figarowa]

y don't you try Maaco, they are really cheap as far as painting goes

[Strider]

Unfornately the company I work for is shutdown this week (of course not unfornately for me ); otherwise, I would show this to a few people at work to see what could be a cheap way in fixing this. When I go back to work I'll ask a few chemists to see what can be done. Maaco does sound like a good choice after re-reading the posts.

BTW the average Dry Filim Thickness of paint applied is .8-1.2 mils which isn't alot of paint applied.