Replaced brake pads... several problems went away?

[Hi Ho]

The front brakes on my 1990 Civic had been squealing like crazy non stop for months. I decided that since the pads probably had about 50,000 miles on them that they should be replaced. I bought some new pads and went to put them on. I found that the old pads were still like new. There was almost no wear at all. I replaced them anyway hoping to eliminate the squeal. It did just that. That's not all it did though. Replacing the brake pads seems to have solved the shuddering in the steering wheel and brake pedal while braking as well as the shudder in the whole car while driving over 60 MPH. It is much more pleasant to drive on the freeway now. How could replacing the brake pads make that much of a difference? Usually shuddering while braking is due to warped rotors and shuddering while driving is due to unbalanced wheels. I'm happy that it's all fixed but now I'm puzzled.

[Byte 2.0]

I don't like life time breaks, for those reasons. The wear down about half way and seem to stop wearing at about that point. The material seems harder and to me, I think it bites into the rotors more at that point.

When I buy replacement pad, i never get the cheapy ones and never get the expensive ones. I buy the mid grade and check them every time I rotate the tires.

I think lifetime breaks being a tuffer material starts making those nosies when they get wore down about half way. Maybe someone has another view but that has been my experience.

[Hi Ho]

I don't think they were lifetime brakes. The new ones were the "premium grade" pads. I still don't get why replacing brake pads solved the shuddering problems.

[Byte 2.0]

The shuddering, could have been a hard place on one of the pads that had not wore evenly and a combination of anti locking front breaks. Going out on a limb on that one a bit.

[HAL9000]

The shuddering COULD come back as the new pads break in... you should ALWAYS turn the rotors when replacing pads.

On a side note... I had lifetime pads put on at the local Petro Canada Certiguard just over a year ago.. not anymore... I barely got 30,000Km outta them... changed to Monroe... always had good luck with them.

[rjfvillarosa]

What usually happens is the dust from the wearing material combined with rain water and heat from the brakes creates a very hard glaze over the contact surface, you would have had the same effect if you had just sanded the glaze off with a little fine production paper, the worst culprits are drum brakes when the dust collects in the drum and glazes over the contact area of the shoe. imagine what it was like back years ago when cars were fitted with drums front and rear, one of my first jobs as a mechanic was flatting brake shoe surfaces before the fitters to put the shoes back on.
I bet with your new front brake pads you are using less pedal pressure as well.

[Trent Steel]

Originally Posted by HAL9000 you should ALWAYS turn the rotors when replacing pads.

What does turning the rotors do?

[HAL9000]

Originally Posted by Trent Steel What does turning the rotors do?

Several things..

1) Removes any glaze build up
2) Removes any grooves cut into the rotors from wear
3) Can remove minor warping
4) Provides a proper surface for the new pads to break in

You can't always turn the rotors. Sometimes they may be worn too thin, grooves worn in too deep, or too much warp to remove and in these circumstances they should be replaced.

[Trent Steel]

Just to be clear, turning the rotors is where you machine the disk on disk brakes? How much does this cost and can most shops do this?

[lil Jimmie]

Yes.
Many auto part stores can turn rotors and will cost between $6.00-$10.00 USD each. Prices will vary, our shop has a local alignment shop turn ours for $4.00 each and we bill the customer $6.00.

[HAL9000]

On my car, they want $15 to turn them, $20 for new ones... heck, for $5, put new ones on.

[Hi Ho]

The rotors actually had very little grooves. They almost looked like they were just turned. I decided to leave it this time. I usually do have them turned when I replace the pads.

[jessho]

When you installed the new pads, you forced the caliper piston back in to the cylinder. The shudder might have been caused by the piston not returning after you released the brakes. The piston, which is returned by an o-ring returning to it's correct shape, will hang when there is an accumulation of corrosion. The pads were lightly riding on the rotor, which caused the shudder.
If the car starts pulling in one direction - especially while braking - change the calipers. You can buy rebuilt calipers for less than twenty dollars - if you return the core. I wouldn't fool with a kit.