Choosing a Bicycle

[Floppyman]

Hi all,

I'm planning on buying a bicycle this summer to start to do some extended road biking. It will probably be for shorter distances first as I start out, but eventually I hope to do longer distances (25+ miles) -- hopefully even compete down the road. I'm new to this and really have never done any road bicycling before, but I'd love to ride bike and want to pick this up as a new hobby. Therefore, I've set some money aside and want to buy myself a nice bicycle (with the required accessories) this summer. For those of you that road bike extensively (I think there are a couple of you on this board), what type of bike would you recommend for someone who is just starting out, but ultimately wants do do more? Is is possible to get nice bicycle for around a thousand dollars? I would appreciate any and all advice you can give me about bicycle types/brands and also anything else that I should look out for as I get into this new hobby. Thank you very much in advance.

[Floppyman]

I did some looking at found some nice Cannondale's and Giant bicycles in my price range (~~$1000). Any thoughts on either of those? I'm also glad to have found this store in IN...might be worth visiting to see their selection.

http://bgindy.com/index.cfm

[Cricket]

I think you'd get more for your money with a Giant.

Do you want a Road Racer with the bent over riding position or would you like something more comfortable like a recumbent or a city/cross bike?

If you decide to get a Road Racer you'll probably be looking for a good pair of clipless pedal shoes to go with it...and of course a good helmet.

Cricket

[EzyStvy]

Food for thought -> Buy yourself a $100.00 bike and see if you ride it often for many months. If you succeed then upgrade...If you find out it's not all that fun, you won't be out a fortune...

[David M]

If you do go as Ezy suggests, Costco has sub $100 bikes.

[Floppyman]

Originally Posted by David M If you do go as Ezy suggests, Costco has sub $100 bikes.

Thanks guys. The thing is I already have the $100 bike that I ride to and around campus often when the weather is nice. It's really out of riding with that bike that I got motivation to do more and do extended road biking.

[mbossman2]

one of the nice things about inefficient bikes (or any piece of equipment)? they make you work harder to achieve the same effect, so when you switch to a better piece, you are ahead of the curve and in something like cycling, I think being aerobically ahead of the curve would be a really good thing.

[arthur666]

Originally Posted by David M If you do go as Ezy suggests, Costco has sub $100 bikes.

Stay away from cheap bikes for anything more than cruising around the block. Cheap bikes are rarely put together by knowledgeable mechanics and they use cheap parts that come out of adjustment quickly. I work at a bike shop and have seen way too many $100 bikes from department stores that are brand new and too dangerous to ride. I'ld say stick with the major brands (Trek, Specialized, Giant, Cannondale, etc.). As in computers, there is a reason the good stuff costs alot more.
For a good do it all road bike, I like this one.
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22307
Great for long distance, comfortable, and you can take it on dirt and gravel if you need to.
or, for less money,
http://www.specialized.com/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=22264

If you want to race, check this one
http://www2.trekbikes.com/bikes/bike...id=1440000&f=3
solid parts, good frame

Also, make sure you buy from a shop that will get you the proper size, changing stem, handlebar and seat if need be for a good fit. Proper fit is crucial for longer rides. Resist the temptation to buy the wrong size because its on sale.

[Brad the best]

giant , specialized , cannondale , trek . all great bikes , i would probably go with a giant .

things to look for are .

brand and type of shifters , personally sram is superior to shimano because they alow you to shift with your fingers on the brakes unlike shimano ( this is on the ratchet style anyway)

integrated brake /shifters , some come as one piece that move together , some people like it some hate it .

how much carbon fiber is on the bike , 90% of carbon fiber is not notch effected anymore so its probably tougher then the thin walled aluminum anyway . you will probably only get a carbon fork for a 1000$ bike .

in the end take them all for a rip and then decide , there all terrific brands . its just gonna be the little details that have to keep you happy on those 25 miles . just don't pick a bike on seat comfort , there easy to change and you could probably get one free with the purchase of the bike.

[Floppyman]

Thanks guys. I will definitely go to a bike shop to get help/suggestions....just looking at the specialized site gives me a headache -- WAY too many choices! But then again, maybe that's a good thing these days in that you can really get a bike that fits your riding style and goals.

[mbossman2]

the other thing no one has mentioned is to go to a professional level bike shop and sit down with a knowledgeable sales person and pick their brain and work thru your needs, wants, desires and goals and see what they come up with as a suggestion

[Brad the best]

mbossman2 just gave some great advice . the people at a professional level bike shop are usually great people willing to answer anything . some places you can even chat with the mechanics , or owners .

[Stuey]

I just reread your August '06 Schwinn thread. So how's your biking been going, and have you chose a road bike yet? I was reminded of your threads earlier when I went to purchase/order my new bike (Trek 4300). My first bike in like forever, or as an adult at least!

[Lespaul20]

I bought a Marin for riding around campus and just around. I paid around 350 and it's held up pretty good.

[ktkendall]

I have a Cannondale and love it, but its probably a bit beyond what you are into right now. I have the full carbon fiber frame Synapse model, which retails over $3000 and a nice new set of KyseriumES wheels that I put on there. Even when I was new to road biking though it was suggested to me to go with a Giant brand model of road bicycle because you will get a higher component level for the same money as a comparable Trek or Cannondale. Trek is definately way overpriced because of the noteriety due to Lance Armstrong riding one. You know how it goes, demand goes up and the price goes up. I would want to go at least Ultegra level components if it is a Shimano equiped bike. As with most things you buy, and I can tell you from experience that you won't be sorry if you spend a little more and get a higher component level on your bicycle. I ride over 4000 miles a year on my Cannondale, and it is just so worth it to have such a well made lightweight and durable machine , especially around here we have 3000ft mountains that I regularly traverse. My last road bike only had Shimano105 level components and I wore out the rear cassette and chain climbing those mountains in no time. I ended up upgrading those to ultegra level, but now have went all the way on my Cannondale bike with dura-ace chain and cassette, and like everything you get what you pay for. I've yet to wear out the titanium dura-ace sprockets and chain. So in conclusion I favor Cannondale, and I know their frames are top notch and believe me, everyone I ride with that has a high end Cannondale is never left behind the pac. You will always see the Cannondale riders in front of the pac. I would personally get something like the R-1000 then upgrade components later as they wear out like the cassette and perhaps later on upgrade the wheelset. There are incredible deals to be had on ebay. I got my ES wheelset for 800 and they retail for 1200. But as I had even been advised, Giant bikes do get you a better bike to start out with for the same money as the Treks, Specialized, and Cannondales...

[Floppyman]

I'm going to buy a road bike this summer actually -- I found some nice bike shops around the area that I'm going to check out to get some suggestions and do some test riding on different models/brands

[novie]

ill second the vote for cannondale - ive ridden trek, fuji, and cannondale. though i dont ride long distances these days, i tend to ride on city streets full of potholes and have even been hit before and the frame didnt snap... just make sure that the bike is sized to you properly would be my advice. if youre planning on being on it for hours you want to be comfy in the saddle.

[ktkendall]

Actually My last bike before the Cannondale Synapse was a Jamis quest, and for $899, it was one heck of a bike. Talk about getting more bang for your buck. That particular model has actually consistently won Bicycle mags' best Buy award in it's category. I really had no problem keeping up on the climbs.

http://www.jamisbikes.com/usa/index.html

You can do the dealer search from the website, but Jamis is definately one to consider, and before that, my first road bike was an IBEX:

http://www.ibexbikes.com/

and those you can only get online and once again truthfully for $500 it was really nice. I had the corridaLT. That was aluminum frame with steel fork. That bike was quick, durable and responsive but as I started going on the long rides like centuries, it became necessary to get something lighter. Even the jamis bike was starting to wear me out on the long rides above 100, so the opportunity came along for the Synapse, so I jumped on it. Ended up getting over 600 for the Jamis on ebay, so because of the reputation the Jamis really held it's value also.

[Litespeed]

Originally Posted by Floppyman I'm going to buy a road bike this summer actually -- I found some nice bike shops around the area that I'm going to check out to get some suggestions and do some test riding on different models/brands

That is the best thing you can do. Test ride several bikes, and get the best fit. We all come in different sizes and what might fit for some would not fit for others. Bike fit is the most important thing in getting the right bike. Have a professional at the bike shop determine what you will be using the bike for can better determine fit, sizing, and adjustments. Getting the wrong fit or size can just end up as a really expensive peice of furniture. Let me know what you have narrowed it down to.

-Matt

[David M]

My brother just bought this carbon fiber framed bike for around $1800. He plans on doing a ride from SF to LA this summer. In asking him how much weight did he save he gave me the figures.

I told him that if you just take a leak before riding that he could have saved himself 400 bucks.

If you weigh say 190 pounds and the bike weighs 15 pounds..that equals 205 pounds. If you get a 20 pound bike..can anyone honestly say they feel the difference between pedaling 205 pounds or 210 pounds up a hill?....a 2.38% difference? Could anyone feel the difference between a 49 pound or a 50.16 pound weight? I know I can not at the gym...thats why the weights don't come in one pound increments...except in the ladies free weight area...LOL

I say don't be fooled by by a few pounds and the corresponding price tag Floppyman. Okay, you serious bike riders can attack me viciously now.

[Stuey]

He might have went with carbon fiber over a regular frame since it's going to be much stronger than aluminum, not that one should be able to damage an aluminum frame too easily.

Can someone tell the different between a 2.6 Ghz processor and a 2.8 Ghz processor? Eh, to each their own.

[Litespeed]

Originally Posted by David M My brother just bought this carbon fiber framed bike for around $1800. He plans on doing a ride from SF to LA this summer. In asking him how much weight did he save he gave me the figures. I told him that if you just take a leak before riding that he could have saved himself 400 bucks. If you weigh say 190 pounds and the bike weighs 15 pounds..that equals 205 pounds. If you get a 20 pound bike..can anyone honestly say they feel the difference between pedaling 205 pounds or 210 pounds up a hill?....a 2.38% difference? Could anyone feel the difference between a 49 pound or a 50.16 pound weight? I know I can not at the gym...thats why the weights don't come in one pound increments...except in the ladies free weight area...LOL I say don't be fooled by by a few pounds and the corresponding price tag Floppyman. Okay, you serious bike riders can attack me viciously now.

Yes you can tell the difference between a 15 and 20 pound bike. No vicious attack. And I am only talking about the bike not the weight of the person. I think alot of people outside of the bike world hear or filter what bikers might talk about and some times it seems that we are crazy over weight. That is not true. Get a quality frame. Once you start upgrading to quality components you will get parts made with better materials that are lighter. I don't choose Dura Ace components because they are lighter (although that is a large plus) I choose quality components because of form and function. I have a whole stable of bikes in many forms and fashions and I might know the weight of 2 of them, but I don't make a big deal about it. Just bought the new Specialized S-Works; I haven't a clue how much it weights but it handles like butter. Myself if I need to shed weight in order to become more efficient on my bike I worry about my gut and not my bike. But yes a few of my bikes are light but that is not why I bought them. Cyclist don't pay for bikes by how much they weigh.

And by the way to any of you cyclist out there the S-Works is one of the sweetest bikes I have ridden in a long time. Really responsive and fast. The wheels are really stiff and the compact frame just pops when you need it too. Going to race it this weekend so we shall see how it goes.

[David M]

Good luck with you're race this weekend Litespeed. I guess I still don't get how a 2% overall weight difference makes any noticeable difference. Could it be more based on psychology where if you feel like you are lighter then you are going to try harder because you think you have a major advantage?

[Litespeed]

Originally Posted by David M Good luck with you're race this weekend Litespeed. I guess I still don't get how a 2% overall weight difference makes any noticeable difference.

Because you are only talking about weight. And when you get a bike that weighs 5 lbs less it comes with other items that make it an over all better bike that makes it ride better and happens to be a lighter bike. Where or how is that 15 lb.bike lighter than the 20 lb. (hope I asked that question right)? Plus imagine just grinding away up hill for several miles up a mountain and some one straps a 5 lb. weight on your bike it will feel like a ton. Again us cyclist don't worry about weight as much as you think.

Here are some calculation http://home.hia.no/~stephens/aero.htm that explain the weight per efficiency.

Thanks I need some luck. Monday it was 87 degrees here in Dallas and tomorrow morning it is suppose to sleet and snow. Only in Texas can you have your heater and a/c on in the same day. I just need to watch out for those corners if it is nasty.

[Litespeed]

Also since this is a cycling thread I might remind everyone of Ride for Silence coming up in May.

http://www.rideofsilence.org/main.php

I rode in the very first one. And will never miss one. It will change your life. No t-shirts, No medals, No podium finishes. Just a group of cyclist riding in silence for people that have died while cycling. Started here in Dallas now it is all over the world.

Check out the website.

Also for any on in Dallas Floyd Landis will be at the Richardson Bikemart on April 17th.

[Floppyman]

Thanks for all the advice guys, this has become a very interesting thread. I've come to the point where I don't even care so much about saving a buck or two anymore. I know a good bike will cost a fair amount amount of money, and I'll gladly pay a little extra to get extra advice/service from the bikeshop. I walk around in a 6' 3" frame, so I'm definitely going to need to be sized up properly, or any bike ride will be very uncomfortable. I will post back here in this thread once I've narrowed it down to a few specific models.

[ktkendall]

I'm only 5'11" with a 34" inseam, so it's really hard for me to get just the right fit. With a big enough frame for my legs, my upper body is way to stretched out. When I bought the Jamis from performance bike, he said I was the hardest fit he had ever had. Basically I need the larger frame, and long cranks, but a nice short handlebar stem. Here is a good article on bicycle size and fit:

http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/

What I feel in going from my Jamis that was probably 20 pounds to my Synapse which is down around the 16 pound range is quite a difference, especially up hills and on the long rides. I am so much less fatigued on the same rides as I did on my Jamis that had a steel frame with carbon fork . If you're just talking a little 5 mile sprint around the neighborhood then you would probably never feel the difference between any decent model road bike, but start talking serious hills and distances then every pound you can shed from the bike or yourself makes a difference. I did a 165 miler last year on the synapse and other than my knee joint tightening up a bit the last 25 miles it was quite a smooth ride as compared to the previous year when I did a 170 mile ride on the Jamis, I thought I was going to keel over from that one.

Here is a full carbon for 1800, and I ride with a guy who has one and loves it:

http://www.performancebike.com/shop/...tegory_ID=3040

Here is another place, but I really don't know much about these brands they offer here:

http://www.bikesdirect.com/

and also here:

http://www.bicyclebuys.com/

If you are new to this though and don't really know how to do any repair or maintenence and adjustments though, then I would suggest to stay with something from a local bike shop.

[ktkendall]

Originally Posted by David M Good luck with you're race this weekend Litespeed. I guess I still don't get how a 2% overall weight difference makes any noticeable difference. Could it be more based on psychology where if you feel like you are lighter then you are going to try harder because you think you have a major advantage?

Your missing the point here, because thats a 25% drop in the weight of the bike and thats what really makes the difference. They even say it is more efficient to use one of those camel back hydration systems over a couple of frame mounted water bottles, and I believe it is true because when i go out this time of year on the shorter rides with no bottles at all, I really feel the difference cause you figure two 22oz. bottles full of fluid is probably about 3 pounds extra. They say the weight of the bike is more critical than the weight of the rider. I don't notice any difference though when I'm a few pounds heavier this time of year than I will be later in the year.

[Stuey]

I don't know too much about Camelbaks vs. caged water bottles in terms of bicycle weight influences, but they're more convenient and efficient from an intake point of view. I imagine that for one to grab a water bottle and drink from it, they've got to unmount it and then tilt their head back, etc. Plus it's hard to carry 2-3 liters of water. My new bike has two mounting points, presumably for a water bottle and either a second one or a mountable pump. I imagine that it's not too easy to grab a bottle while cycling and maintain the same speed. With a camelbak, you just need to reach up slightly and/or just tilt your head a little bit.

Theoretically, one is supposed to drink 1 liter or so for every hour of intense activity. My small water bladder is 70 ounces, and the larger one 100 ounces. I can't imagine where or how I'd mount 2-3 liters of water onto the bike.

[ktkendall]

Well the theory is that weight of the bike and anything on it is harder to carry than weight added to you as the rider of the bike, which I'm sure only works to a point. I'm sure I would feel quite the difference with a heavy backpac on my back as I rode. I used to haul my little boy around town on a rear mounted carrier, that was quite the workout pumping up hills with 25 to 30 extra pounds on the back. As far as the bottles you can only mount 2 on the bike, and 2 more if you get a special bottle holder they make that mounts to the seat. For the most part though we carry the standard 2 bottles, and on long rides we have to stop and refill them from time to time.