Another vehicle related thread...

[hitchface]

Hey guys!

Question for you. I have a 2000 Chrysler Neon (don't laugh...ok, go ahead) and I am getting some front end whirring that tends to get worse as speed increases. I know it isn't the engine because I can put the clutch in and the noise stays the same. Anyways, I did a quick run at Yahoo Autos and believe that it has something to do with the rubber on the tires being too hard. Unfortunately, that is where I hit a dead end. But here is the kicker. The noise gets worse when I turn to the right, and goes away entirely when I turn to the left. I inspected the front wheels for any signs of an abnormal toe-in or out, but couldn't see anything (I know it would only be a few degrees, but who knows?)

The vehicle has recently had a front end alignment, new brakes and new tires. Are the new tires the cause of this?

Thanks for the help in advance guys. I'd rather ask you than sign up for another forum to ask for help.

[HAL9000]

There are a number of things that could cause that... my first suspect says that it's a rear wheel bearing. If it has drum rear brakes, take the car up to speed where you can hear it howling pretty good and step on the brakes hard. The brakes will take the load off the bearings and the howling should stop if it's a bearing.

I would also suggest it could be an inner CV joint. In either case, turning to the left would cause either the left joint or left rear bearing to turn slower than turning to the right. Outer CV joints tend to click on turns, inner CV joints tend to howl or cause vibrations when driving.

[hitchface]

It won't be the rear wheel bearing, based on your description. The only thing that happens when I step on the brakes is a lowering pitch in the noise that goes with the deceleration. You might be on to something with the inner CV joint though. I hope not....

[HAL9000]

When I say step on the brakes, you have to step on them HARD. Remember, rear brakes take only 30% of the load, so to pull the load off the bearing, you have to brake hard to release that load. You can try even with your parking brake by pulling hard enough to the point just before lockup.

If it is a CV joint, don't replace just the joint, get a remanufactured half shaft. You can get just as good of a warranty, the reman half shaft is often about the same price or sometimes cheaper than a new single joint and you get the outer joint in the process and the labour is actually a hair cheaper. With a half shaft, they just remove and replace.. with a joint replacement, you remove, dismantle and remove the joint, reassemble with new joint, reinstall.

[Brad the best]

i agree with hal on the cv joint .

[glc]

The going price to get a reman axle job is about 200 bucks a side. Just the axle is about $75, the rest is markup and labor.

It could be a front hub bearing too - why don't you take it back to the shop that did the brakes and alignment and see what they think?

[hitchface]

Ok, tested the brakes (handily enough, there was a brake test section on the highway) and I just hammered 'em. No reduction in noise. So that rules that out.

[HAL9000]

Then I would say either inner CV joint or front bearing as GLC suggested.

[MaxRat]

have the front end alignment checked....I have the same thing going on in my 88 chevy 2500 truck and it's the idler arm going bad and the camber is out of wack...

[hitchface]

Is that a picture of it in your avatar?

[Panama Red]

Same problem recently with my PT Cruiser - basically a Neon with a different body. After much searching I found it to be the driver's side front hub bearing. Took the hub off the car myself and had a local auto parts shop press the old bearing out and press in the new one. Cost me $60 for the bearing and $25 for the labor. If you put the car on jack stands, remove the front wheels, put the lugs back on to hold the brake disks/drums in place, run the car in gear and use a long bitted screw driver as a stethoscope, you should be able to determine which bearing (if that's the problem) is going bad.

[hitchface]

So far that sounds like the most cost effective solution. I'll likely get it fixed no matter what it is, but the cheaper the better. This car won't even be around next year (trading in for 2 motorcycles...hot diggity). That and knowing what is wrong ahead of time can give me an edge going to the mechanic. Nothing sucks more than getting ripped off and finding out about it later.

[Brad the best]

not all mechanics ripp people off , sometimes were just wrong .

[hitchface]

I wasn't taking a shot at mechanics in general. In North Vancouver, where I am currently, mechanics have a history of overcharging and misdiagnosing.

[MaxRat]

thats pretty much everywhere...

Even the highly trained ASE certified (or so they say) do it also...In alot of cases Mechanics will fix whats wrong while Technicions will just replace whats wrongs...different but the same...

If you don not get a proper diagnosis then it becomes a game of just fixing/replacing stuff untill the problem gets solved...

sometimes that happens when you dont have the proper tools to fully check each part in question...

I did this for a friend on a little Caveleir that brought me a car that wouldnt start claiming the fuel pump went out...

After a quick check it was getting fuel fine but no spark...so I tested what I could with what I had and didnt see anything bad so it was a simple process of elimination...and I also start with the cheapest part 1st..

I replaced the $20.00 crank sensor that usually goes bad from heat as it had shown signs of deterioration...that didnt do it...So it was off to the $200.00 ignition module...put the new one on and fired 1st time...

After you do a few like that you learn how to better diagnose the problem and put a minimal cost on the owner in which it was a older couple on a limited income so the labor was free for my part...

I had another on shortly after which would run great cold but would quit when warm and not run at all..I spent 2 days checking everything before I bought the $300.00 part to fix it...

It would run great cold and have full power but once the engine made it to 160deg it would die out at anything other than full throttle and be low on power...

Owner wanted a new fuel pump as he swore that was the issue...but he had 45psi of pressure even when it died..and plenty of spark so I tested the injector with a "Noid" light to see if the injector was still getting "pulse" from the ECM and it was...

I still couldnt get the engine to fire so I tried the old trick of shooting Carb Cleaner in the air track and it fired and ran till I stopped shooting the fluid...

Thats how I knew the injector was bad...so you have to be thorough with the diagnosis...I had the thing for 3 days

Most shops want them in and out quick thats how they make the money...I did post a while back on how my Aunt got ripped at the local car dealer for repairs on $1800.00 and all it was is a $100.00 ignition switch I bought and replaced

So becarefull and watch out...Best thing to do is spend some time with the symptoms and search the net for clues/answers...

It's saved my butt more than once....