Motor Oil

[Kubie]

Hal, you're in the clear. He did say hot climates. I realize it probably gets warm where you're at, but not that hot.
Carl

[SARGE]

Originally posted by kbert777 What's best to use? Simple and easy! Important thing is to change the oil regulary, every 3000 miles or 3 month what ever comes first.

That's the bottom line. Been using Fram on all vehicles around here for many moons; guess I'll keep on.

[lil Jimmie]

I'm sticking with Fram filters also.

[HAL9000]

Originally posted by Carlgif Hal, you're in the clear. He did say hot climates. I realize it probably gets warm where you're at, but not that hot. Carl

Yea, I wasn't overly concerned. On average, our summers are about 25-30'C. The odd time it will go into the mid 30's, but not very often. I was just wondering what the basis of the statement was and what was considered hot.

[Trent Steel]

Originally posted by doctorgonzo Following the manual is probably your safest bet.

Exactly, the people who designed the engines most likely know more then the user.

[glc]

Dan - Amsoil is primarily sold through multi-level marketing, so check your Yellow Pages for an Amsoil dealer or I believe they have a locator or referral on the amsoil.com website. They do have a retail "on the shelf" program, but very few dealers that I know of are actively pursuing this line of sales. I am a former Amsoil dealer, I swore by, and still swear by, the quality of the product but I don't care for the way the company does business. To carry on with another aspect of this thread, their oil filters are outstanding premium products, but priced accordingly (as is their oil and everything else they peddle).

[Mr N8]

I use quaker state in both of my vehicles. I use the standard 10w-30 in the Crown vic, and I use the 10w-30 Full Synthetic for my Olds aurora. Buying sythetic is not cheap (7.5 quarts a change), but the aurora has a nice high compression engine, and the syth oil does wonders for it. For filters, I have used Napa Golds for a while. What is a better filter?

[jessho]

I use Royal Purple which is a synthetic. Almost all of my driving is on the highway, so I go 5000 miles between an oil change.

A word of caution for changing oil brands. Some synthetics have solvents that will release the sludge in your engine. In severe cases, the sludge will clog the screen on the oil pump. If this happens, the only repair - If the engine doesn't seize - is to pull the pan and clean the screen.

[Kubie]

MrN8,
Wix makes Napa filters.
In Wix, add a 5 to the Napa # for oil filter; a 4 for the air filter; and a 3 for the fuel filter.
Carl

[KR0316]

Your right Carlgif. Wix makes everyones house brand filters. Valvoline makes the house brand oils also. I use valvoline in my truck. I don't know if it is this way now but 10 years ago my roommate was involved in a major oil brands test and Valvoline had the least amount of somewhat harmful additives in the oil and I have been using it ever since.

[RayH]

A lot depends upon how you drive. Taxi cabs in San Francisco can put 300,000 miles on their odometers easy. Cars don't get more abused than stop and go running up and down our hills. They don't use any special oil. Just certified SAE motor oil.

I used to work in a major oil company refinery in the building where motor oil got jugged. It was the same oil for everybody, including the company's. Sometimes the dye would change.

Castrol purchased all its raw stocks from the refinery. At least in this area. Castrol would then do its own compounding and jugging in its own facilities across the road.

I trust SAE certification of oil in major brands. It's how I buy oil.

[dan3223]

Does anyone have an opinion on the Halvoline (made by Texaco I think) Synthetic oil? It's about $3 per quart, about a buck and a half less than Mobil 1, and my engine has been fine so far. 80k miles on the Chevy Corsica 3.1 V6, doesn't burn a drop between changes. I use Quaker State 4X4 oil in my new Dodge Dakota, but it's too new to really tell how good/bad the 'earl is.

[RayH]

I don't know if 4x4 motor oil has any different additives. I know the company I used to work for used to package regular 10-40 as motorcylce oil!

[dldz]

Originally posted by RayH I don't know if 4x4 motor oil has any different additives. I know the company I used to work for used to package regular 10-40 as motorcylce oil!

Well I have owned many ATV's and dirt bikes & let me tell you that using regular 10-anything SAE motor oil is is a BiG NO NO! I have had friends ruin brand new 4 stroke engines because they did'nt want to pay the $8-9.00 a quart for Motorcycle oil.

[mark70]

Can't remember where i saw this review but it said that fram is now the worst filter you can use as they now use staples and cardboard in them. Also a tip for lawnmower users- use a marine grade synthetic in them as they contain corosion inhibiters which helps protect the mowers as they sit idle over the winter months(assuming you have winter months) Amsoil is a true synthetic but i do not believe that mobil one is-wasn't there a big lawsuit over this???

[glc]

They are both true synthetics, but they use different chemicals in their manufacture - Amsoil is ester-based and Mobil 1 is glycol-based. I suppose you can argue that glycol is closer to petroleum than ester, but I don't see that as a big deal, as long as it works.

[SARGE]

The talent and knowledge around PCMech is awesome. When I began this thread I figured it would turn into a Intel vs. AMD or Ford vs. Chevy debate, but good info is being put out.

Wife's uncle was such a fanatic about oil. He'd ask everyone he met what kind of oil they used, then rush home and change his to that brand. I kid you not, if the next day he met another person who used and swore by another brand, he'd repeat the process. We laughed and figured he got 100 miles between oil changes.

[glc]

Back in my days of playing with cars, I was a nut on what oil and filter I used - but I think with today's engines and oil technology you are fine as long as you keep it changed at reasonable intervals - I abused the heck out of my beater 87 Sable, changing the oil when I "got around to it" at the local quick lube - and at 163K miles that old 3 liter was still only burning a quart every 3k. If I were to buy a new or almost new car, I would be fussy again, but with beaters, I just don't have the incentive.

[RayH]

Unless you have some sort of trick engine, any SAE approved oil is going to do the trick. No names get their jugs filled by the big names.

The thing about chagning oil frequently has less to do with oil breakdown than to drain out the garbage that's collecting inside the oil pan.

[glc]

And to renew additives that are no longer effective.

[Colonel Sanders]

I thought the difference in oil weight was also effected by RPMs. Specifically because a diesel will turn about 3500 RPM MAX, but a gas on the other hand.... A crotch rocket will be turning about 4x that, needing lighter oil?

Logan

[HAL9000]

I've always used the thinest oil I can get away with, but that's relative to what you're running for an engine. Diesel engines put much heavier loads on bearings, cylinder walls, etc, so require a heavier oil than a crotch rocket motorcycle.

[dldz]

Well what I meant by motorcycle oil for ATV's is alot of the newer ones (4 stroke) share the engine oil with the transmissions. So using regular SAE motor oil screws internal parts up fast ,within 2K miles it will cause trans wear & oil burning etc.....Think of it as adding 3 in 1 oil to a chainsaw gas mix won't last long eh ?

[meemooer]

i would just like to add that i have a '72 Ford Gran Torino sport, with a 351-c 4v, holley 4160 750CFM VS, carb, and a Edlebrock Performer intake. My car loves to be rev'ed up high , all cleveland motors do, right now i'm saving up to rebuild the engine, i want at least 350hp, and the same with torque, when and if i rebuild it's all synthetic oils from there, mainly becuase it will be an everyday driver/ weekend drag. Filter choice wil definately be later

[doctorgonzo]

Here's a question for people: next month I am going on a road trip to the East Coast. Normally I don't use synthetic oil, but would there be any benefit to changing the oil with synthetic prior to the trip?

[glc]

doc: Depends on how many miles are on the car - it's not wise to switch to synthetic on a high mileage engine due to its higher detergency and propensity for finding leaks. If you do switch, you may see about a 5% or greater increase in your gas mileage on the highway due to lower friction.

[doctorgonzo]

It's got about 74,000 miles on it, and it is a '93, so it is not exactly new. Thanks for the info, the leaking is something I hadn't thought about.

[glc]

With 74,000 miles, that's right around the point where you have to think about the switch carefully. If you know the history of the car, and know for a fact the oil has been changed frequently, it uses no oil between oil changes, and you have no visible leaks, a switchover will most likely be successful. Also open the oil cap if it's on the valve cover and shine a flashlight in there and look for sludge. If there is visible sludge, don't switch. If what you see is just coated with a light golden brown film, that's what it's supposed to look like, not black blobs of gook.